Discussion about lowering/raising front suspension

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by TNRabbit, Jul 17, 2013.

  1. TNRabbit

    TNRabbit New Member

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  2. Bryan88

    Bryan88 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Sorry, didn't read it properly. I assume the writer is saying he drops the forks (not the triples) when loaded and going on long trips? I did the 10mm drop (raised the forks) and it made a world of difference, I don't ride fast though so can't attest to high speed stability. Interesting about understeering being dialed in by the manufacturer, I know cars are normally set up that way just hadn't thought about it re bikes.
     


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  3. TNRabbit

    TNRabbit New Member

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    I thought the author stated that RAISING the triple INCREASES oversteer/tossability. Or perhaps I'm reading it wrong....
     


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  4. Bryan88

    Bryan88 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    It's really easy to get this one wrong. Raising the forks means dropping the triples (bike headlight gets closer to the ground). Dropping the forks means raising the triples ( headlight points skyward). The accepted mod for the 4th gen VFRs is to raise the forks by up to 10mm, think the later models addressed the lazy steering so I don't know if the same applies but I could be wrong.
     


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  5. Bryan88

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  6. TNRabbit

    TNRabbit New Member

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    Well, I've notice on REALLY tight turns, I have to keep some forward pressure on the lower handlebar to keep the bike low, which to me indicates understeer. I understand why because it's safer for someone who is less experienced with 9/10ths riding. Not certain I want to change it just yet, but I'm thinking about it.
     


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  7. Bryan88

    Bryan88 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    What I found was that mine used to "tip in" (felt like it wanted to fall over, hence needing to keep pressure on the inside bar) when cornering below about 40Km/h. It doesn't really make sense to me, but that seemed to be quite a bit better after I did the mod.
     


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  8. TNRabbit

    TNRabbit New Member

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    Just read through that linked thread; pulled this out of it:

    " You don't get something for nothing

    OK, I could only stay out of this one for so long.

    Tricky is the only one here talking sense. If you drop the yokes down the forks you are steepening the head angle (rake) AND shortening the wheelbase (trail). The bike will, of course, steer quicker as a result.

    BUT....

    You will be making the bike less stable. This is unavoidable and all of you who've said "done this and its still fine at high speed" are missing the point. The kind of instability you are generating is the kind that makes the bike try and shake its head. It has nothing (or very little) to do with straight line stability and not a lot to do with speed.

    Try this test. Put the yokes back to standard and find yourself a sharp bend with good visibility where you can put the pegs down and really get on the gas as you apex. The bumpier the bend the better. Now run at it a few times on you'll notice that the harder you get on the gas the more the bars start to flap.

    Now drop the yokes again and re-run the bend. The bar flapping will be much more violent, at less gas. (Don't blame me if you tankslap into a hedge). This is the kind of instability I'm talking about and its why most "proper" sportsbikes have steering dampers.

    Of course adding a pillion, or luggage, makes this kind of thing much, much worse which is why Mr Honda has the thing set up the way it is in the first place.

    Therefore, if you only ever ride solo and in "sports" mode then by all means drop the yokes but you'd better be paying attention on bumpy "b" roads. If you use the bike as the "all rouder" it's meant to be, then in my opinion, leave the yokes alone.

    Either way if you want better handling you're better off having the forks (and the rear shock) done, as Tricky says. I haven't had mine done yet but I'll let you know as soon as I have.


    Dave "
     


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