Hello all, We all know that an Ohlins is the cat's meow for our bikes, but cost is prohibitive. The Jamie D. 900RR conversion was a great second alternative, but with Jamie not doing any more 900RR conversions, and me wanting to put on something nice over the winter, I decided to set off on a quest to locate an improved shock for my VFR. I was able to source something really interesting off of a 2016 Kawasaki ZX10R. That year Ninja runs a Showa balance free rear shock. It’s a dual tube, and functions an awful lot like an Ohlins TTX. Not saying it’s exactly the same, but reviews on the shock are good overall, and I was POSITIVE it would be a significant improvement over stock, even if it was about 20mm shorter physically. Price for the unit I purchased was $129 delivered. To start, I broke the gas tank loose by removing the front two bolts, and removing the long cross bolt that attaches it at the rear. I just used a large rubber wheel chock to the keep the tank up while I removed the nut holding the shock to the upper frame. I am sure everyone can figure out how to remove the shock, but rest assured you can do so without taking off any body panels. With the old shock out, first I needed to figure out the mounting situation. You can see from the pictures below, that on the ZX10R shock the bearing is at the adjuster end, and the rubber filled bushing is on the piston yoke. That is upside down compared to the 5th gen. OEM shock. That is a problem, because the ZX10R shock has to be mounted with the adjuster end up to fit in the available space. To address this first issue, I pushed out the rubber filled bushing, and the bearing to take measurements, and order replacement parts. It turned out that both eyes on the shock are the same size ID! With that knowledge, I simply pushed the rubber filled bushing back into the upper eye (above the adjusters) and centered it. I didn’t get a good pic. of the upper eyelet, but you can see from the one below that the original lower bushing is wider than the upper eyelet, so it sticks out the sides a tiny bit. That was not a problem at all as you can see the mounting yoke fits great! Next, I needed to address the upper mounting bracket itself. You can see that the OEM upper mounts are quite different between the two shocks. The ZX10R mount is much larger OD, and the threaded part is much shorter. Addressing this issue started with figuring out that since the ZX10R upper mount is hollow, I could open up the hole with a size “X” drill bit, and a 3/8 bolt would fit perfectly through the center of the ZX10R mount. The difference in overall shock lengths was addressed by flipping over the original ZX10R mounting nut, and running it all the way down snug. Then I stacked a pair of stainless washers I had laying around on top, and cut the existing threads just below the flush surface of the top washer. You can see in the pic. below that the washers will slide over the threads that are left. The last step was to weld in the new mounting bolt, and flatten the end. Flattening the end of the bolt is important, because you need clearance between the bottom of the new bolt, and the shock clevis. At this point, the new shock was effectively 1/4” longer than the OEM shock, but I foolishly figured that should work out fine. Below you can see the finished upper mount, next to the OEM shock mount.