Delkevic Headers VS 6th Gen VFR

For those that don’t want read the entire post, my recommendation is save your pennies up and buy the Motad headers if you are shy about doing some work to get your headers to fit. The Delkevic headers are stainless steel and are aprox 5mm bigger that the stock 04 headers. They do not have a tab for the center stand. They were $275.00 including shipping. Ok, so here is the full story:

EDIT: I've since heard that some people had the same problems with the Motads - YMMV

Some things I did not know that would have been helpful –

• The gasket between the header and the block is a crushable copper ring. They are a one shot deal so if you have to take the header back off to do some grinding you need a fresh set of 4. They are $2 ea at Service Honda so I would order an extra set. I had to buy a set locally and they were $5 ea w/tax.

• The gaskets where the rear pipes hook together suck. They are a soft metallic material that tears up easily when you have to take the pipes back apart.

• Don’t be cheap (like me), buy new clamps for where the rear pipes connect. I re-used mine and both bolts ended up stripping out and I could not find any kind of suitable band (in town) to replace them with.

• At least on mine, you have to really crank the same clamps tight or you get exhaust leaks.

• That burning smell when you are test running your bike is either coming from the black plastic piece in front or your rear seat cowl.

As far as the install

I started my project on Friday afternoon. I recommend taking both side fairings off for easier access. Otherwise, follow the manual. The OEM header came off easy. First problem I ran into was the two front tubes did not want to line up. I ended up putting one side on and taking a large screwdriver and prying the other side over about a half inch. I placed a small floor jack under the bike to prop up the header. I then put on the back tubes. While I was trying to get the outside bolt on the left rear tube, I dropped the nut. I ended up looking for it for a few hours, including taking the cover off the front sprocket and moving the chain guard.

I never found it, so Saturday I went to the dealer and paid $5 for a little nut. Once I got the back tubes on it became apparent that things were not lining up. At one spot the headers were tight up against the side of the block and the back tubes did not want to mate up. After a little more prying got the tubes to align and I found out that the rear most tube did not want to seat all the way down into the collector. This is where I also found out that the bands I was planning on reusing would not work. I spent a couple of hours running around town which produced no suitable substitute for the bands. I ended up modifying the original bands to fit the larger tubes. That killed Saturday.

Sunday was Easter so I did not get back to the bike until later in the afternoon. After another trip the Lowes for longer metric bolts for the clamps I had everything together. When I cranked her up I discovered exhaust leaks where the rear pipes join the main header and one of the front exhaust ports. I tried using a little muffler tape on the rear joints and figured I would take Monday off and replace the front gasket. The tape did not work and I still could not get the rear tube to seat all the way into the collector. To make maters worse, since the rear pipe would not seat it hung down lower on the bike and interfered with the center stand. Result - another day down the drain with my bike still in pieces.

Monday morning I took a fresh look at everything and decided to pull everything apart and see if I could get that rear tube to seat all the way into the collector and fix my clearance problem. After another trip the dealer and $$ for new gaskets, I took everything apart again. A lot of Dremel work removed the excess material inside the collectors that the rear tubes mate with. After replacing the exhaust gaskets and putting everything back together the rear tube seats in the collector better and fits good enough so my clearance issue with the center stand is corrected. I temp installed a small metal strip for the center stand to rest on. Once I’m sure everything’s good I’ll have it welded in place.

Due to weather and other commitments today is the first day I’ve gotten to ride. Initial impressions, I really like them. The bike definitely winds up quicker and feels like it wants to run. I’m currently using Tinyminds map and it seems to be working well. I do plan on getting a custom map done but it’ll have to wait until the end of the summer. I’ll update this as soon as I get more miles in.

Action

 

You are the man. I am going to make this a project of mine either this summer or in the winter. I dont know if you are aware, but two bros isnt true duel. I would have to buy another slip on for optimal sound wouldnt I?

 

Sully,
I've got the same system as you and I really like the sound. With out the cat you get a nice deep, mean, raspy sound. I left the gold power tips in which knock off a few DB's. It's still plenty loud when your on it but low enough so you can idle home at odd hours and not disturb the neighbours. I am going to try and get a sound clip up someday but it's low on the "to do" list.

Action

 

sounds good man. I just took her in for a dyno and was very displeased to hear that she is only pushing 93 hp. I am looking for a custom map on the net. know of anywhere I could get one? Or have you ever done yours yourself?

 

I was running Cozey's map before I got the headers and I'm running Tinymminds map now. Both are available on VFRD under down loads.

Action

 

which gave you most hp?

 

Tinyminds map is set up to run with the catless headers so it really makes the bike come alive. Mid and upper range RPM's pull noticeably harder. You pay for the performance by loosing a little gas mileage. I'm guessing about 2 MPG, I'm not sure exactly because I'm still running the bike pretty hard enjoying the sound/power. Until you get rid of your cat I would recommend running Cozeys map (unless you had one done already).

Action

 

Both cans for the Two Bros are usable. It's just that with the slip-on version the left can doesn't get a feed. If you go to a full exaust, Motard or just about any other system, it should remain a 1 into 2 setup. Just remove the frame mount on the dummy can then hook the can up the same way you would have done on the right can.

If sound is your major concern I can tell from experience that the slip-on Two Bros. sounds fantastic with just the one operating can, and according to Two Bros. their 4 into 1 setup adds a few more pounds of torque when compared to their competitors 2 into 1 slip-ons.

 

As you see above .I have TB high mount can .Will these headers work with my can ?

My bike is a 99 .How much would a shop charge to install these ?

 

Don't be dissappointed, 93hp on a DJ dyno is actually pretty good. The mystical 100hp number that Honda throws out there is way beyond optimistic. I have looked through about a 50 DJ dyno charts and the range of hp numbers (when the correction factors aren't played around with) all seemed to be in the range of 86-90hp. If you were to dyno on an eddy current dyno, the numbers would be 15-17% lower. :frown: I think you would have been much happier, if you had done a before and after dyno comparison.

 

Old thread, but does it matter that the pipes don't cross over like stock ones do? I wonder if it screws with the exhaust pulse scavenging effect.

 

If you look at the picture the stock pipes cross over both in front and in back. The Delkevic headers match up the same ports as stock so the exhaust pulses are the same.

Action

 

Ahh i didn't notice that, thanks for the info. Im always peculiar about manifolds that were rearranged as some of them actually lose power (not particular to bikes only of course). In my case im just trying to maintain power(at the least) but get rid of the bulky cat and and repair my scrapped up pipes with something cheap and perhaps a slight upgrade. This thread made me rethink about buying those Delkevic pipes tho... Those pipe merge collectors looks awefully cheezy too..

 

Viffer Rider,
I don't know if it will make any difference, but the headers are holding up nicely. All the welds are good and they haven't discolored or rusted (of course they are stainless steel so they should still look good). The headers really seem to bring all the mods together and with Tinyminds map it pulls harder going up through the gears. I road it back to back with an 03 that just had pipes and you could really tell the difference.

Action

 

Hello, I am just about ready to order myself a set of the Delkevic Headers for my 07 RWB. I have the Leo cans on it. Am I going to run into many problems with fitment? Also where can I get a copy of Tinyminds map for use untill I can get it on a dyno?

Thanks, Gimpy

 

Out of curiosity, did you notice a drop in radiant heat off of the exhaust (noticed a lot on right leg) after the Cat was deleted?

 

.... reviving an old thread....

After aborting my cut and weld job on my Cats, I just ordered the VFR800 headers from Delkevic. Kinda an impulse buy with my tax return. And my RWB 07 needed some spoiling as I haven't been giving it much attention lately. Surprisingly, even though the listing on ebay was for the 98 -01, it now came with the Lambda sensor bungs and a center stand stop for the VTEC. The tubing is still larger diameter than the VTEC's OEM headers though. Interesting. Also, it came with all the gaskets for the down tubes as well as the header gaskets. I had already ordered the gaskets anticipating the headers not having this included. I guess I'll try to return them. I also saw a set of Motads in person just before ordering and considering the price difference, the Delkevics are pretty nicely made and well worth it. I've had a Delkevic complete system for my 93 ZX7 restoration project and that was pretty nicely made as well.

Since the orignal poster, Action posted, the price went up $100, atleast $50 of it is in gaskets. No new clamps though. Fits perfectly, no struggle, no mess, no nothin'. Now just waiting on the down tube clamps I ordered and I get to hear how my Leos sound. Planning on keeping my Sensors for now as I'm not running a PCIII. I'm after sound not power, no dyno runs planned. My CBR1000RR is the bike I ride when I want power.

Very nice unnecessary upgrade.... side grade. Oh yes, the weight. OEM, 12 lbs 9 oz. Delkevic 9 lbs 11 oz and the OEM had the 2 down tube clamps still attached. So can't justify it as a big weight saving move either.

 

I brought delkevic (to get rid of cat)

There were no clamps provided, and no O2 sensors bolts in header (required for good dyno results). I also had plastics melting because the pipe geometry was slightly different to original pipes...

If I did it again I'd go Motad for sure.

I was extremely unimpressed with their customer service when I dealt with them.

 

Yikes, I'll keep an eye on that. Maybe I'll have to add some heat shield on the closer fairing areas. Not sure why the set I ordered has the sensor bungs and the center stand stop. Hopefully that means the were some "improvements". As for customer service, I had pretty much good results. I may just be getting lucky. I sent several emails concerning the VFR headers and got next day responses. And I had an issue with my ZX7 headers missing a clamp, Luke (I think was his name) from Delkevic in Colorado, sent more than enough spares via fedex the next day.

On a semi - related note. Just got back home from picking up a mint refridgerator white 93 VFR 750, 9500 original miles, all stock. Took me 19 years but I finally bought the bike I first fell in love with when I was in my 20's and couldn't afford the darned thing back then. I'll probably be getting a set of Delkevics for it too so I can drop some weight...

 

My Blue VFR was that bike for me. I'm glad you now own your dream bike.

The only challenge I had with my dream bike is... cause I love it, I spare no expense...

It would be impossible for me to get back the $$ I have dumped into my viffer, but considering how sweet it rides now, it was worth it...