Comfort mod suggestions

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Grade247, May 15, 2020.

  1. Grade247

    Grade247 New Member

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    I JUST picked up a gorgeous 98 5th gen yesterday and only a few things id like to change/upgrade on the bike because wow this bike is fun and CLEAN for a 98.

    I wanted to get bars but see tons of different style Helibars and wanted to know if someone has a lead to a good place to pick up the "correct" ones.

    I want to look into peg lowering kits but all i see are universal ones and not sure which one will actually fit and work without getting loose.

    What can I run for LEDs for high/low beams and in the taillight or full replacement taillight same with front turn signals.

    has anyone run oxford heaterz on the oem bars also because it seems like real estate is limited on the bars.
     
  2. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

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    LED headlights - F2's are the latest generation but they're all getting closer to being DOT compliant. I use these in my other bikes.
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/H4-9003-F2-...ash=item340928e7f6:g:k6MAAOSw43JbyYPU&vxp=mtr

    I replaced my front turn signal lenses with new clearer amber ones from China, then replaced all the bulbs with SuperbrightLED 7443's in front signals and rear tail/brake... amber behind amber lens, red behind red lens. I believe the rear signals are 7440 (single filament style, but 7443's will work). Front signals also double as running lights and I don't feel the need to add addtional running lights for conspicuity.
    Note, you will need load resistors for the signals (I installed in the tail) or a replacement flasher that works with LED's (note proprietary connector on OEM).

    I'm not an Oxford fan, choose to run other aftermarket ones with nicer looking controller or integrated controller... Koso or AME Chicane, e.g.
    Have tried $15 ones from China, OK but heating surface is only on front half.

    Can't speak to Helibars..... be mindful forks are 41mm diameter, choices may be limited.
     
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  3. jfrahm

    jfrahm New Member

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    I'm using Buell footpegs, the mounting area needs to be ground a bit to fit but they work well for $45 or so.
    N0006.1AD Buell Rider Footpeg (Pair) Kit for XB Models.

    I had VF1000F clip-ons but swapped on a bar conversion and sold the clip-ons. I have a pair of SV650 helibars I never tried, still need to sell those.

    For LED headlamps I found some with the copper braid heat sink and they work fine, been on there a couple years so I doubt Ebay still has the same ones. The tabs need to be adapted from any standard H4 to the weird ones Honda uses but that's no big deal.
    I'm not a fan of LED turn signals. Tried some LED brake light bulbs but they were too dim or did not have the correct low/high function so I have left those stock. I do want an LED aux brake light to get a faster warmup brake light but it's low-priority.

    I also fitted an updated voltage regulator, the stock one might get stressed more if you add LED bulbs as it will have to dissipate more watts. I got a used FZ-09 regulator and a harness off Ebay. Under $50 and no worries about getting a crappy knock-off regulator.
     
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  4. Grade247

    Grade247 New Member

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    Thank you both for the quick replys. I am going to be looking into a lot of this info you have given me!
     
  5. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

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    The modern LED headlamps are much better than previous offerings, yes you snip the lower tabs off so they work with the OEM housing.
    Past offerings of signal and tail/brakes LED's were poor.... you'll be amazed at the Superbright LED's, I am quite impressed and pleased.
    I did the same with the regulator, FZ-09, FJ-09, later FJR's all use the same Shindengen and those bikes never had regulator issues.
     
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  6. Grade247

    Grade247 New Member

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  7. jfrahm

    jfrahm New Member

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    There might be clearance for the fan cooling unit on those LED headlights but I prefer the passive copper braid heat sink on mine. There is not a lot of clearance.

    The VFR uses odd bulbs, the locating tabs are in different places. Two need to be cut off to use a standard H4 in the VFR, or this page suggests a different approach:

    http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/H4mod.html
     
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  8. DaHose

    DaHose New Member

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    Keep in mind that our housings are made for H4 bulbs. LED's don't have the right pattern, and I have yet to see one that is actually legal to use on-road in the USA. YMMV

    THE single best comfort mod. I have made is a superbar upgrade. I think Helibars would be very nice too, but by adding clamps and a low superbar to a spare top triple-clamp, my VFR was transformed from unpleasant after an hour, to comfy all day long. Spiegler makes the most beautiful conversion kit if you have the spare change. I keep eyeballing a kit, but my test setup works so well that I can't bring myself to spend the money. If you get higher rising bars, you will also need the throttle cables from an ST1100.

    Once the bars are raised, you might not feel you need lower pegs. Especially if you get a nice windscreen, like the MRA I ordered out of Germany.

    Jose
     
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  9. complex.technician

    complex.technician New Member

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    Hello Grade247,


    Welcome to the world of VFR!!

    First and foremost, I would worry about upgrading your regulator/rectifier (R/R).

    These “comfort mods” will not make a bit of difference if your VFR is broken down along the side of the highway somewhere, now will it?!?!

    I am sure that you will get varying bits of advice on this matter.

    You should listen to everyone, then decide what works best for you.



    Just to give you some info to work with…

    The stock/original Honda R/Rs are prone to failure, as are the stators. Those two items work together to regulate the electrical system on your VFR. If one fails, the other will fail soon. Don’t believe me – go check all the VFR posts on VFRWorld and FB, too.

    So… the R/R “fix”…

    The VFRness is an old band-aid that was only acceptable before FH020AA and SH847 R/Rs became commonplace. Now it is not an acceptable solution.
    The SH847 kit from RoadsterCycle.com is the way to go.
    The SH847 is a series type rectifier, which will help reduce heat build-up in the stator.
    Less heat in the stator means a longer lifespan.

    The RoadsterCycle kits completely bypasses the stock wiring – a major weak-spot.

    So… point of the story … buy the SH847 kit from RoadsterCycle. You will be glad you did.

    If you mount the new R/R in the same place as the old one, you do NOT need any extra lengths of wiring.

    Have questions? Go to the site and email Jack with those questions. He will respond – and quickly, too!


    http://roadstercycle.com/


    Now… handlebars …


    I purchased the HBK606A kit from Webike Japan, and I could not be happier!!

    I have about 8K miles on the bike with this kit, and there’s no way I would go back to original clip-ons.

    - Purchase price of around $200 USD (HeliBars, LSL bars & others are usually $300+)

    - Took less than one hour to install

    - Only basic hand tools needed (#2 Phillips screwdriver & 6mm Allen wrench)

    - Original hoses/cables used (nothing extra needed)

    - New kit puts hands about 2.5” up and 2” back when compared OEM clip-ons

    - Upper mount allows for different 7/8” handlebars – if desired

    - “Normal” 7/8” handlebars allow for other accessories – GoPro, phone mount, etc.


    https://japan.webike.net/products/2076546.html



    I am also running pegs from a Buell, and they are one inch (1”) lower than original pegs.

    I am not sure what model the pegs are, since I purchased them in used condition from a buddy.


    Those “comfort mods” are really the only thing I have done to my own VFR.


    Hope it helps.
     
  10. Grade247

    Grade247 New Member

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    Thank you for ALL of this info extremely helpful. I know the R/R was recently replaced by prior owned within the past year but pretty sure with an OEM unit so I'll be looking into the other option.

    I will be looking into all of this thank you very much!

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
     
  11. DaHose

    DaHose New Member

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    Ooh, that Webike kit sure is purrrdy as well. That is the way to go, along with the st1100 cables.

    Jose
     
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