Clutch Bleeding

When I bought my VF750Fit came with all the parts to replace clutch discs and was told it needed doing. So I loose my clutch after a 25 miles. If I park it for the day I seem to have full clutch once it is cold. Also If I loose it while riding on the road I can stop and crack the bleed screw on the slave and I have full clutch again.
What is the proper procedure to bleed this clutch properly and what do you guys think my problem is. I may be missing something.
The bike has 77000 kms and runs great when system is cold or freshly bleed. I have in my shop doing some other winter service and would like to address this issue as well.
Thanks

 

Do you know if the bike have new clutch? If it were me I flush all the fluid including new oil and filter, replace with complete new clutch.
You will be surprise new oil can do to the clutch function.

 

I have been having this exact same problem and it is driving me crazy.
I rebuilt clutch master and slave, and had a new (Barnet) clutch installed and
have a Goodridge clutch line. I ride the bike for about 45 mins and it feels like
the clutch starts slipping and every time I shift it gets worse until no clutch!
What I've done this week, is drive it and when it goes I let a squirt out of the
slave and head home, Master rebuilt 2 times, slave rebuilt and cleaned 3 times.
I will try changing oil but this oil only has about 200 Km on it. I think I've noticed
a slight improvement, but not sure. I've hand bleed and vacuum bled. Hope there
is an answer to this. I'll be watching this post. Goodluck

Garry

 

I am not mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I recently flushed my clutch reservoir and lines. And I stayed at the Bet Western last night. Given the symptoms you describe, it almost sounds like there is an air leak in your master cylinder. Correct me if I am wrong, but the clutch is hydraulically operated, and if there is an air leak, maybe even an air lock, then the clutch will not function properly. I have no idea how you would check for that. Any signs of fluid leaks at any of the connections? Mind you, air will leak through and opening that is too small fro fluid to flow through.

Keep us posted if you figure this out.

 

Best for bleeding to remove sprocket cover (or slave) and hold the piston fully retracted by means of a C-clamp. And always allow an air space above the fluid in the reservoir.:biggrin:

Martman's symptoms suggest a blocked fluid return hole at the bottom of the reservoir.

 

Thanks for the info. The oil only has 3-400 miles on it, and the clutch has not been replaced as I do not want to open it up unless I have to. I do have all the new clutch disc from Honda as stated the parts came with the bike. The clutch seems to work well when the system is bled. I have ordered a slave rebuild kit so will rebuild that and drain and bleed entire system again.
Regards,
Martman

 

What he said...

 

Martman, I took everything apart, master, line, and slave. Cleaned everything
and bleed the system ( by hand) using The Squirrel man's advice. I was out for
over an hour and everything seems fine now. I will let you know if it changes.

 

Squirleman

The return hole in bottom of reservoir where does it come from and how do you tell if it is clean. I got lot of rust and crud out of the hole but not sure as I can not feel where the hole goes. I can a pin down about a 1/8-1/4 inch but then it stops. Not sure where it returns from.
Got slave kit and have taken apart very dirty and sludgy inside slave. So all is clean and ready to go back together.
Thanks

 

Martman did end up solving your problem?

 

I finally got around to working on the clutch issue. I ordered a slave rebuild kit and rebuilt it. It was very dirty and sludged up. The vent hole was plugged as was suggested by a couple of you veteran bike guys. This was such a great piece of information. I do not know what I would have done without it.
I am now rebuilding the rear brake caliper as one piston was seized and the other was slow.