CBRF4 Forks

Are these able to be swapped onto an '86 VFR700 without too much of a hassle? I'm not adverse in any way to doing the work, but i can't seem to find a concrete answer anywhere.... Too long, too short, too shiny, what's the word?

 

I have a complete 06 F4i front end. Pretty cool how even the kill switch plugs into the 86 harness. The problem...the stem on the F4 triple is too short and it is steel, which is pressed in and welded to the lower triple. The stem on the VFR is longer and is pressed into the lower triple which is aluminum. I am in the process of finding someone who will press the stems out of both triples and see what we have. Mabe we can just press the VFR stem into the F4 lower triple and TIG it as before. The forks are much shorter.....so there are options....these I am currently looking into as well. One is to find a custom top triple and put a set of full taper bars on the top.....this would eliminate the need to have the forks extend above the top triple. The forks will still be a litlle sharte but that geomerty you will have to try...if it wants to hit the rad one could order fork extensions.....

 

As suggested above, the F4 forks are very short. In fact, my findings are they are much too short to be used on the VFR safely. You need to check all clearances very carefully, most importantly at fill compression of the forks. That's where I see most people make their mistake with fork swaps (that is not directed to you, RG07).

There are lot of things that "can be done", but the list of things that "can be done correctly" is often much shorter. Do your homework and don't rush and you should be fine.

 

Thanks a lot guys. Maybe some extended fork tubes would be a safe route to go to compensate for the differential in length? I know Forking by Frank will do custom tubes for anything. I'm just torn on whether to do the proven F2/F3 swap and cartridge emulators, or go off the beaten path do the (already) cartridge F4 swap. I guess it is something I'll need to toy with and find my own conclusions to.

 

A couple of options:

- The 1994 CBR600F2 forks are cartridge and offer a cable driven speedometer. These are the best choice for your bike.
- If you don't mind switching to a countershaft sprocket driven cable, it opens up a lot of possibilities. Not only would the F3 forks work, but also the VTR1000F.

 

I had no idea Honda was using cartridge forks that early on. Somehow, I thought the F4 was the first CBR to get them.

 

I went down the f2 route. But I find the forks a little too short using the stock clipons.
May go down the superbike bar route, or get some of these.

Roger

 

Jamie, maybe you can give a definitive answer on this. From the specs, the CBR600 F3 uses a 296mm front rotor, the 3rd gen VFR uses a 296mm non floating rotor. The F2 front wheel and the 3rd gen front wheel are basically the same, and use the same brake rotor mounting bolt pattern. The 3rd gen and the F2 both use the gear driven speedo as well. So... could one not do the following:

1. Use the forks from a CBR F3.

2. Use the front wheel from either an F2 or 3rd gen.

3. Use the rotor from the 3rd gen on the above front wheel.

4. No need to modify the speedo drive, it would just bolt up.


Unknown is:

1. Would the brake calipers from the 2nd gen still work with the F3 forks?

2. Would it be better to use the F3 brakes?

3. Possible some spacers might be needed on the brakes or rotors?

From 50000 feet it seems it might work to me.

577-

 

There is no need to use f3 forks unless you want/need to use the larger 296mm disc.
However I am in the process of doing the exact thing that your talking about.
I intend to fit f3 lowers onto my f2 fork legs. I am then going to fit a set of Brembo calipers to the bike using some ready made hangers from Japan.
http://japan.webike.net/products/1113303.html
I intend to retain the f2 wheel and speedo drive even though there is no locating peg on the f3 lower. I think the speedo cable is strong enough to stop the drive unit from rotating round with the wheel, its just the same as putting on the wheel and realising that you have not located the peg on the right side of the fork.
I will endeavour to keep posting the progress on here. But this has been widely discussed on here.
http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/index.php

Roger

 

Hey where do you get these and how do you use them with externally adjustable caps?

 

Hi.
I got them through this guy.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/unobtanium/
He specialises in getting hard to find items from Japan.
They replace the original fork cap, they're recessed at the top allowing you to use the tool on the right of the picture to make adjustments.
This is the Japanese makers website
http://www.winning-run.com/eng/products/honda.html

Roger

 

Doing more research I believe using the VTR1000F forks and calipers with the above wheels and disk would be an even better option. This gives you more fork adjustability and four piston calipers with larger disk.

 

Why not visit us on the UK vfr site?
You will find all you need to know over there.
We have a specific vfr750 rc24 86-89 section.
Wheel mods, fork mods, you name it we've done it.
http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/

Roger

 

There's some one doing a vtr fork swap at the moment

Roger

 

Hey tried to join crapped out saying max daily usage limit. I guess I used too many bits.....

 

That seems to happen a lot to newcomers. I have no idea why.
You can read them though?
I'll contact one of the moderators and see whats up.

Roger