I have just purchased a VFR750 FG which has been lying in a garage(partialy stripped) for the last 5 years. The floats are stuck causeing an overflow of petrol, i need to get the carbs off to to fix this, however, with the V formation it looks impossible to simply 'pull off' the carbs as a single unit. Do they have to be split into two's then removed? any help would be appreciated. thanks Davy Scotland.
pulling carbs i just pulled the carbs of my 83 vf750f in on piece yours should be the same you need to disconnect the throttle cables and the choke cable after that is done you need to loosen both clamps around the black rubber boots that hold each individual carb to the intake you can spray the rubber with some wd40 the help them slide out just pull up and in a small circling motion and they should come out
thanks Thanks for your reply. It looks like brute force is the norm when pulling off V4 carbs, my local dealer said that they drop the entire engine out the frame for removing the carbs, seems a bit excessive but if thats what it takes then fine. Thanks for your reply, much appreciated Davy Scotland.
Dropping the engine to remove the carbs?:jaw: That's just silly. I need to clean my carbs this winter, hopefully mine aren't too frozen in place. I remember what a PITA it was to get the carbs on and off my Yamaha twin... The VFR is more likely a killer...
Drop the engine? Do they remove the swingarm to change rear tires? Seriously, these guys sound like rip-off artists. You might want to find another dealer. Anyway, I recently remove the carbs off my 4gen to re-jet. Eleven years old and they've never been touched but it wasn't that hard. Use a long pry bar with a rag or something to protect the carb bodies and work each side equally. You might want to loosen all the boot clamps (two clamps per boot). I used silicone spray as a lube during reinstallation and a large rubber mallet to tap 'em back in (again working both sides equally). Edit: remove tank, remove airbox, remove throttle cables. Get a manual.
Thanks guys's, I'm new to these forums and i'm really taken back by how quick and honest the replies are, thank you. Davy.
Use a hair dryer to heat the boots for removal and install. Makes them more pliable. Lube the boots with Sylglide for easier install.
Welcome, but the problem just may not be what you said. pull the top of airbox and filter and look into carb thoats....if you see fuel wetting that area, then floats are definately to blame; however, after long storage the float bowl gaskets may have shrunk and are no longer sealing. this is evident by gas dripping down in the V area. the cure for bad gaskets is remarkably simple: keep the carbs as full of gas as u can for 1 or 2 days, and the seals will swell up and need no further attention. i've seen this on several bikes, so i hope it helps. consult archives on this site for carb removal proceedure if necessary, and remember, ,it's ev en harder getting them back on!
If the Float Needles are not sealing, then you will get gas leaking through the carb throats, onto the pistons, past the rings, into the crankcase . You will not see gas in the "V" of the engine. An indicator of a stuck float is that your oil will smell like gas. If this is the case, the motor could hydrolock and cause issues like bent valves. - Try starting the engine with the kill switch in the OFF position. If the engine spins freely, you are OK. - If not, you may see gas leaking out of the top of one of the carb boots. - Pull that cylinder's spark plug and start the engine with the Kill switch in the OFF position and put a rag over the spark plug hole to absorb the gas coming out. - Dry off the spark plug and re-install. - Try starting the engine with the kill switch in the OFF position. If the engine spins freely, you are OK. Sometimes, you can free a stuck float needle/float by hitting it with a screwdriver handle. In the short term, turn your gas off whenever you park your bike - and always try to start the bike with the Kill switch in the OFF position to ensure the engine turns over freely. In the long term, pull the carbs and replace with "HONDA" float needles. I've read that aftermarket float needles - although they fit - may be longer or shorter than stock - screwing up your float height. If the float bowl gaskets are leaking, then you will see gas in the "V" of the engine and on the bottom half of the carb.
good advice on here for new owners ...... some of the people on here have owned LOTS of bikes, and experience accumulates over time........ HAD TO LAUGH!! If anyone said that he neaded to drop the engine out of the frame just to remove carbs????......if that's a a real Honda dealer, their franchise from Honda should be revoked immediately because they are not following Honda normal proceedures. Or are they just trying to find some reason to overcharge?? I don't know what the OFFICIAL shop time allotment from Honda is to remove, clean, install carbs is, and i don't know how long some dealership kid would take, but think that carbs could be OFF in 45minute. CLEAN, and set floats, on average about 1-2hours. Then rREINSTALL and hook everything back up, one more hour. SO, that amounts to about a 3 hour job, but some experienced hands could do it all in 2 hours or less. .It would be a great experience for you , Davey, to do this work yourself. Just read the OFFICIAL Honda shop manual for carbs, and with very simple tools you could proceed. Anything else you might need to know could be found on this site!
Guy's, thanks for the advice, she fired up last night and runs well. All problems are now fixed except for the back brake is sucking in a little air somewhere. Once that's done i'll take it down for it's M.O.T test this weekend and hope she passes 1st time. Thanks guy's. Awe the best fae Scotland. Davy.
