Brake lever effort...

Hello everyone,

I have a 1986 VFR 750f that I bought a couple years ago with about 23,000 miles. I hadn't given any thought to how much effort that it required to stop the bike until recently when I swapped rides with my buddy that has a 2004 model. He told me that he thought the brake lever was somewhat hard to squeeze. I realize what he means because the brake input on his 2004 is really light but I never realized just how much I had to squeeze the brakes on my bike until after riding his. Anyway, can some of you give me any idea about how much effort I should have to use to get my bike to stop?? Or how difficult it is on your own bikes?

Thanks,
Moose

 

So, you changed out the brake fluid first thing and bled the system properly ??



Yes, progress continues to work well. Newer stuff is better. and i think a stock '86-'87 would be about 15-20 % weaker in brake power, partly due to less tire area and sad lack of opposed-piston calipers. The advent (forgot which year) of the opposed-piston, 4-piston caliper rendered the VFR's brakes 25 years too antique So just ride a bit slower.

A full brake tune up would include PROPERLY cleaning rotors, pads, calipers, slider pins, + fluid replacement.

Our spongy old OEM lines can't compete with the modern versions for lever firmness. Newer brakes are alot improved. But i consider my '86 entirely adequate for NORMAL use and better than most of those older-era bikes.

 

Always hard to guess but I feel my 86 has a good front brake with minimal effort, but then I also ride bikes with front drums so anything with a disc is chalk and cheese by comparison

 

What does a PROPER cleaning of the rotor entail?

 

sanding the rotor with 300/400 grit sandpaper to break up glazing, followed by liberal application of brake cleaner ( protect the tire from drips !) to de-grease. Sand and spray pads too.

 

Thanks Squirrel

 

http://www.truedisk.net/home.html

 

I always like ads with pix that show the worst case scenarios and how some outfit is gonna fix em up like new. SOS at any brake shop where rotors (always) need turning or the chances of running down a blind old lady in a wheelchair are increased tenfold.

Picture A looks like somebody replaced the brake pads with rasps and ran them for 100 miles in city traffic.

 

Sanding the pads with something rough can remove the common surface layer of friction-destroying grease and imbedded material for a freshen-up, followed by a liberal use of brake cleaner spray. Refinishing pads to a lighter shade of gray improves brake bite and takes only minutes, if that matters. Too smooth a disc can reduce friction too, i believe.