Bike would not start this morning!!!

First off, I want to thank everyone for providing so much information on this website, what a wonderful resource.

I have a 1998 VFR with 34K. I have owned for about three months and have not had any problems. This morning the bike would not start. I have been riding it regularly (every day or two) and the temperature was about 60 this morning, which is not out of the ordinary. When I first tried starting it the bike clicked a couple of times, but would not start. I tried again and then when I hit the start button, all of the electronics went dead. When I let go of the button, the electronics came back, but did not start. I couldn't do anything else since I would have been late for work, so I took the car :-(

Before I left, I put it on a trickle charger, which I have yet to do with this bike since I have been riding it regularly and it has not been cold here (Colorado). When I came home this afternoon the bike started up. I check the voltage on the battery (12.5-6) and when fully warm the bike at 5K RPM was 12.8-12.9. I read through lots of threads about the R/R's and am wondering if this is what is wrong with my bike or if it is the battery... or both? I do not know how old the battery is since I bought it about three months ago. I also checked the resistance between the yellow wires and the proper ground checks as stated in the manual to check the stator. Seems to check out. No corrosion on the connections or on the battery, no connections seemed loose either. The R/R on the bike has part # SH579A-11.

Do you think it is the R/R or the battery? If so, does anyone recommend a place to get an OEM R/R replacement online and the part number for the newer version?

I appreciate all of your help in advance. Thanks.

 

If she is only pulling 12.9 at 5000rpm, she is not charging, and 99% of the time its going to be your R/R. However first check things like the connector and wiring that goes to the R/R. Alot of times, it will burn out, or be extremely dirty, which effects the connection.

You should be somewhere between 13.5v and 15v at 5k.

I am guessing its not your battery, as 12.6v is acceptable after a full charge.

Lots of threads on here on how to access the R/R, and how to re position it, add cooling fans, heat sync, and everything else under the kitchen sink, to make it run cooler.

When mine died, I got one from Ricks.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

Cant recommend them enough for $120, and alot of people will agree with me. Excellent customer service with onsite techs, and a 1 year warranty. 9000 miles in, and its working great. Not nearly as hot to touch after a ride, as the original Honda piece of crap.

No PC fans, or heat syncs needed either. Just the unit its-self. Top notch quality.

However I do carry a spare under the seat...just incase.

 

"SHINDENGEN" : It means "you're screwed" in Japanese.

 

I already pulled the rear cowl off and inspected the wiring. Everything looks pretty clean. I usually like replacing parts with OEM only, but I saw that a lot of people like Rick's. Is this the right part:

Rick's Motorsport Electrics - Product Detail

Does anyone know how this is different than the Honda part?

Is there any other ways to check the R/R?

Does anyone know where I can get a cheap Honda part?

Thanks again!!!

 

The fuse 30 amp under seat inspect wiring could just be bad connection check it im sure you have anyhow look again jumping and offroading will shake things up .

 

That is the right part. If you want to spend double, get the Honda part, however it too comes with a year warranty, so you are no better off.

How it is different? Call Ricks. I bet one of their techs will be glad to explain it too you. I am sure they are all pretty much the same internally, just branded differently.

Cheap Honda parts don't exist. hahahahaah

 

Yes, you are right... cheap Honda parts do not exist! \

I placed an order for a new R/R on Rick's website tonight. I look forward to getting it and hopefully it will solve the problem. I have not read any bad comments about Rick's R/R so I figured give it a try. I will post results after I receive and install it. After reading so many posts/threads about people''s R/R's failing on the VFR, I figured I was due.

What should my running voltage be at idle and at 5K RPM with the new R/R to make sure it is working correctly?

 

Good decision.

Running voltages at idle vary from bike to bike. When I first start my bike, I only get 12.8 at idle, however after testing after 5 minutes riding around, and the idle has crept up a little more, I see around 14.2, which is fine with me. When I rev it up to 5000, it will only go up to say 14.5 at the most which is well within the limits.

Some people see their voltages sky rocket a little more at 5000. Just depends. So many things that can affect it including battery conditioning and wiring.

Get that R/R mounted, and I am sure all your problems will go away.

 

I just changed my RR from an Electrosports to a Ricks!

The Ricks unit is much nicer and on the road she charges at a nice 14.7 volts.

BZ

 

For a good permanent solution to the R/R problem i really recommend getting a better wiring harness from Wire My Bike The problem isn't really the R/R itself but the weak wiring connectors to it.

 

I don't think the wiring harness is the issue. When I took the cowl off and disconnected all of the connectors, they all looked like they were in great shape. If there was corrosion or anything else I would think about replacing them. The real issue is that my charging voltage is way too low.

 

I got the Rick's R/R today and installed it. It looks pretty similar in shape to the original R/R, but different color/material. I have had the bike on a trickle charger the last week. After I installed the new R/R, I started the bike and the voltage was reading ~14.4-14.5 volts. It was reading ~12.4-12.5 volts before replacing the R/R. I plan on riding to work tomorrow, hopefully this was the only problem.

 

Nice work. I am confident you are good to go!

Go flight of the conchords!