Another weird issue on a 2002 vfr800

It's happened three times now randomly. I was coming to a stop quickly after a spirited run, blipping the throttle and down shifting through the gears, I blip and go into second and the bikes goes dead. I thumb the starter and she fires right back up? What the hell?

I also had raised the idle up, and it appears the screw slipped or something because the idle speed is right back at 1k RPMS instead of about 1500 where I had it.

 

Have you checked your clutch fluid recently?
I was having similar issues and bled my clutch fluid. Dear god was it dirty and grimy and full of floaties. Had never been changed since manufacture.
Clutch has a much better feel now and less accidental stalling. My impression is shit fluid will cause the clutch to pop in when you don't intend it to, even more so under engine braking and downshifting.
Worth a check.

 

Ahh ok. Yeah I guess I'll bleed the clutch fluid when I bleed the front brake, because it still doesn't feel right.

Is it just like bleeding the brakes, and do you use brake fluid in the clutch? Always had a bike with a cabled clutch so excuse my ignorance.

 

Yes and yes. Except with only 1 bleed point much easier than the brakes.
Weird your idle fell again.

 

As Durk said, yes and yes. Bleeding the clutch fluid is super easy. I actually spent more time cleaning all the gunk out of the MC than any other part of the job. Shit was caked all over the bottom of the MC in a thick layer. I recall using a whole 500ml bottle while flushing.

 

Thanks. Buddy down the street has a pump bleeder deal I may go borrow that tonight and do it.

 

Speed bleeders are the bees knees man. Makes the job a easy as heck and actually gets the job done!
Especially if you are doing the front and rear linked brake system. I would encourage you to read up on the ABS brake bleeding guide before doing them.

 

Yeah I'll definitely due that. Not familiar at all with this system.

Is it normal for there to be a vibration when the ABS engages? I think I engaged it twice this morning while braking on some bumpy pavement. It was strange because I was going really slowly, and it hadn't happened before.

 

Yea, neither was I till last month. Hurrah for new bikes!
I still have to bleed the front->rear linked system on my non ABS model when I have a buddy to help me out.

Regarding vibration, I think a little is normal on generally all ABS systems but I'm not familiar enough (yet) with these bikes to say for sure. I would let some other people chime in on how much is normal.

 

Oh I forgot to mention, one of the damn bolts fell out of my kickstand, so it rotates now when I try to put weight on it. I gotta figure out that bolt size

 

So it happened again today. I was coming to a stop quickly and when I down shifted to first and blipped the throttle the engine conked out, I'm pretty sure before I let the clutch out but I'm not sure. Fired right back up again no problem.

The really weird part is, right after I re started it, the idle speed had dropped back to 1000 rpm. I had to re adjust it back to 1500 when I got home.

Any thoughts?

 

Think it may need a starter valve sync???

 

You might want to start by cleaning the kickstand, engine on/off, and clutch switches. You might also want to consider that this symptom (spontaneously cutting out) maybe be due to the electrical gremlin that plagues the VFR... in which case you will want to thoroughly go through the VFR's charging system, starting by measuring the charging voltage at the battery and searching for crispy connectors and such. Searching this forum will help you figure out how to do this.

 

1. You have to wonder--Why is a kickstand bolt loose? And there is an engine cutoff switch located on the kickstand--maybe there is a connection?

2. On electronical fuel erection vehicles, the idle speed is usually controlled by the computer and is not adjustable in the usual motorsickle sense. If you try to raise it by turning the butterfly screw, the feedback controller will reduce the idle bypass air flow to cause it to try to run at the programmed speed. May not want to fiddle with the knobs unless you really know the system, or it may become totally un-rideable...

 

I'm not trying to sound like a dick here, trust me I'm sure you know way more about the VFR than I do, but if I can jack up the system by adjusting the idle...why do they even have an idle adjustment screw?

you got me a little scared now.


As far as the kickstand kill switch, it still works, I tested it out. I have my replacement bolt today to fix it as well.

 

i went back to the 91 pages of the 2002 manual chapter 5 for the PFI. There is some sort of idle speed regulation but it's maybe not a closed loop control since it uses a fast idle wax unit. It indicates that idle can be adjusted to 1200 +/- 100 using the throttle stop screw after all the sensors check out good and the engine is up to operating temperature. Lots of details on measuring voltages, etc. that might help troubleshooting.

 

"i went back to the 91 pages of the 2002 manual chapter 5 for the PFI."

so qoute feature is on der fritz, I only have three pages on my model, should I feel left oot? (toe-cutter speeling.)

Wax unit is far out for sure. Who thinks of this shit? Sounds like a tps possibly...could be half a dozen other things too...

 

TPS kinda makes sense I guess, I dunno what that other shit is LOL.

This morning the idle speed came way up from where I adjusted it yesterday to almost 2k rpm. At one point it was in N stuck at 3500 rpm. So I stopped and brought the idle back down, and it was fine the rest of the way to work.

 

I'll throw this out there just for good measure. And I have the mechanical ability of a monkey, so take it for what its worth.

Back when my R/R was failing, I was getting all sorts of false codes on the FI light. I know you're not getting those, but my point is one day it would tell me my MAP sensor is bad. Then things would be fine, and I'd get a new flashing code for my speed sensor. Then the BARO sensor...you get the idea.

Did you at least check the R/R to make sure everything is good?

Also, I think it was the 2002 to 2005 models that had a wiring harness recall done. Is yours up to speed? Have no idea if that's the issue, but can't hurt to check. You local Honda dealer can run your VIN to tell you if the recall was done.

Good luck getting it sorted out.

 

It happened again today, this time I wasn't even coming to a stop quickly, just had the clutch pulled in coasting to a stop, it knocked off. Then the idle was back down at 1000 rpms again when I cranked it back up, it had stayed right at about 1400 all the way in to work this morning, and most of the way home until it knocked off, then it was way low the rest of the ride.

i haven't checked the R/R yet I'll do that this weekend when I change the oil.