I've seen lots of options for gluing ABS body panels back togther, but I've never seen anyone mention ABS pipe cement (for the black ABS drain pipes). Is this because it's that bad, or no one has ever tried? I can give this a test and see what happens (vs. other methods like acetone+ABS or Plasti-fix, etc.).
Couple of mentions of the ABS cement and a DIY version. A slurry of ground up (Surformed) ABS pipe and MEK. Works, but dries slowly and even slower to harden. It will not stick to ABS with paint on it. Some of the plastic screenwire is ABS and works well as a bridge on the backside of a "weld".. Best results I have using the stuff is to first tack the parts with superglue.
I've gone through different forums about repairing plastics. If I recall correctly, just using abs cement was a hit or miss on it lasting. You really need to plastic weld the cracks. Even just melting the plastic isn't a guarantee.
My experiences with plastic cements is that they're a chemical weld that melts the two surfaces into each other. PVC pipe, ABS pipe, polystyrene (platic models), etc... Too bad I don't have a stress/strain gauge and a press. But I can at least do some tests and post the results.
I believe 3M and some other companies make kits for plastic repairs so you dont have to use cement or a two part epoxy and risk it.
Plastics even ABS plastics have differences. Much of the total process of a repair is in the prep. Some kits are good, some welding is good, some repairs are minor like a broken tab, other repairs are major like a whole panel in pieces. If a kit is purchased make certain it is for the specific purpose in mind. Epoxy and polyester resins do not bond well to ABS. They are great for "fibreglass" . Chemical "welding" is a form of cohesion. the basic solvent being MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) This you can buy in a model shop and pay about weeks pay for a gallon or just go to a full service paint store or maybe even Homer Despot. The ABS pipe cement depending on which one you buy can be either a slurry of ABS and MEK or MEK and a retarder or any permutation of the fractions. Check out Utube for some how-to's Don't believe any that start out " ISN'T THAT AMAZING" or "JESUS WANTS YOU TO BUY THIS PRODUCT".
Fortunately, I have not had the need to weld any of the ABS panels up to this point. A friend that has says that this stuff Same Stuff Professional Plastic Welder Refill, 2 fl. oz. is the hot deal.
I have used ABS glue on motorcycle parts (black plastic) and it works fine. It is the black flexible plastic. You can recognize it by its smell. Get a piece of black ABS plumbing at the hardware store and smell that, and compare it to that black plastic parts on the motorcycle. See what I mean? I have rebuilt charcoal filters with it too. I cut a 3 sided flap in the filter housing,lift up the flap and pour out the old charcoal and then I go to the aquarium store and for about $4.00 I get a jar of charcoal and refill the filter. Then I glue the flap down with ABS glue. Hold the flap down with tape until it dries. The aquarium charcoal looks just like the charcoal in the motorcycle filter. The reason I did all that was that the charcoal filter was 20 years old and I wanted to see how the inside of the filter was constructed. Very instructional.
Current ABS is very close in formulation. This is a good thing. If ya really have a fairing piece that is crunched, sometimes you can find busted fairing chunks at wrecking yards from car bumpers. A piece of that works as a bridge using either the pipe adhesive or straight MEK to hold it in place. Good for missing chunks too. Takes a little grinding and cutting and some picture puzzle skills but it works. Same deal with a chunk of black ABS plumbing pipe. Gotta be clean and best roughed up and no paint.
