96 VFR clutch/chain questions (where to buy)

I've got 2 '96 VFRs, my wonderful toys. Winter is here, so it's maintenance time.

One has a clutch that is worn, not much left (engages really late), so I'm buying new plates. This one also needs a new chain (sprockets are like new yet). 20K on this bike.

The other suddenly has no clutch feel, it does nothing when pulled and seems to have no resistance. So, I assume it's time to rebuild the master and slave clutch cylinders. 12K on this bike.

I'm thinking of going with the Barnett clutch kit on EBay for the plates. I also found a chain on EBay that I might go with.

Questions:
1. Is the Barnett kit enough, or will I need something not included, like gaskets, springs, etc?
2. I don't ride hard, do maybe 1000 miles a year. Do I need anything other than a stock chain?
3. Where do I find affordable clutch rebuild kits?

I plan to do all the work myself in the near future.

Thanks in advance!

 

Bike #1 - Needs a chain, replace the sprockets as well. I got a RK 530 chain/sprocket set for less than $180 shipped to my door. The stock 530 chain is all you will ever need, don't waste money with a 520 conversion kit. The RK kit includes a generous warranty. The only thing you'll need is a master rivet press to install the chain (I rented one from my local shop for $10). A simple grinder will remove the chain very quickly. If you replace only the chain, don't expect another 20k from it, the old sprockets will eat the new rollers since they don't "match up" shape-wise. As far as the clutch is concerned, I would replace the clutch springs as well - might as well since you're already in there...

Might also want to replace the clutch cover gasket - get that guy at your Honda dealership.

Worth noting - there is one friction plate that is different from the rest (smaller I believe) that is either the first or the last plate to go in (don't remember), make note of the orientation of the old plates as they are removed.

Bike #2 - Try a full drain/refill/bleed on the hydraulic system on this machine before throwing money at replacement parts... I know that this system is particularly prone to trapping air at the slave cylinder (burp the banjo bolt). There is also a very small return port in the master cylinder that can be clogged with an equally very small particle - make sure that it is free and clear.

If that doesn't work, I'd pull the slave cylinder and pull the piston out and see how the bore looks - if it is kind of gross (i.e. scored, rusty, etc.) you may be able to lightly sand it (with 800 grit or higher) and "clean it out". Make sure that all parts are perfectly clean before re-assembly.

If that doesn't do it, a slave and master re-build is probably in order.

 

Interesting..


I would stay OEM with all the clutch parts.
On the chain, yea replace all of it, I had really good things with RK go through the RK dealer at RK America. and again go OEM with sprockets.

On the matter of the clutch not working properly, I'd bleed them with new fluid.
Just a note of observation here. In all my years of owning the 4th gen, I've never had any clutch issues, also with all the experience with being around 4th gens I've never seen one with actual clutch issues, of coarse this doesn't mean it doesn't happen, just rare, especially with the millage you're saying, so I'd go with master cylinder and slave issues being on the first of the list, I've seen those go bad over time. along with a re bleed with new fluid first. Air is the number enemy here. then go from there. Unless these were drag bikes :wink:

 

I got my clutch lines from hardracing.com, and my chain and sprocket kit from denniskirk.com when i did my winter maintenance 2 winters ago.

 

ew!

Thanks for the info/opinions.

Here's the latest - on the bike with 22K, plates are worn out. Not slipping, but I can't see why they still engaged. Looks to be an original clutch at 22K.

On the lower mileage bike, I think someone did something dumb along the way. I just got this bike. I removed the master cylinder cover and WOW - sludgy looking orange crap in there. Also, down near the slave cylinder, I can see what looks like that same orangy color leaked out somewhere down there. I figure I'll remove the line, blow it out with low pressure air and clean fluid to try to get it clean (tough though to be sure it's clean if sludged), clean out the master and slave, but with SLUDGE in there, I may just rebuild?

It's almost like someone put the wrong fluid in there or combined fluids and they were incompatible (makes me wonder about DOT 4 and DOT 5 together or something?). Gonna be a heckuva cleanup. http://vfrworld.com/photos/data/743/ne_nau.gif

 

just purchased a 99 vfr with about 40k and in going through it popped the clutch master and same thing, orange crud. Flushed it through with honda dot 4 until came out clear at the slave and wiped out all the orange crud from the master. My clutch was not slipping but wondering if a flush and new fluid cleared your issue up.

 

DOT5 fluid is purple in color. I don't know where the orange color would come from unless there is something corroding (?). DOT4 fluid will sludge and get golden yellow. Can't say I've ever seen orange.
Any quality chain and sprocket set will likely treat you right. There's lots of information and opinions around here on chains and sprockets if you care to search and read them all.
I'm just under 35K miles on my original stock clutch....can't help you on replacement there. For my luck with the OEM, I'd be likely to replace it with a stock set.