I've been working on putting my top end back together and spent much of last Saturday installing the cam chain tensioners and getting the slippers in their correct spots. My first question is, the rear tensioner seemed like there was much more spring when I got the slipper in it's receptacle and installed into the crankcase. The front tensioner almost seemed too easy to install; after numerous attempts and rechecking my work I think I have it installed correctly but it is almost impossible to see. Is this normal?? My second question is, even with the tensioner backed off and a piece of wire through the holes, there just doesn't seem to be enough slack in the cam chain to get both camshafts and sprockets installed on the rear head. I have a factory manual and Clymer and it looks like both say to install the exhaust camshaft and sprocket first, mesh the chain with the sprocket, then bolt the sprocket to the camshaft, followed with the same procedure for the intake camshaft assembly. I have followed all directions exactly and can't seem to figure out how to get both camshaft assemblies on. Any suggestions? Thanks, Lucas
Double check the slipper bars. They fit in to a socket in the case and don't have much play at all. Sometimes it won't fit right and set on top of the little divider that locks(kind of) it in or is out of it setting on the crank gear/case area. That could be the problem for the tight chain. OR the chain is not on the crank gear correctly. Chain may have folded one link and is off the crank gear at that point only. Rotating the crank may pop it on correctly. With the tensioner locked open (more slack) you should have plenty of room. The front chain that is loose. The slipper is out of it's socket or the tensioner doesn't have enough tension on the chain. You may have to push the tensioner tight or roll the engine over so the chain slack is taken up. Just like a drive chain it may have slight loose/tight spots. Just some thoughts.
thanks for the response. I will look into it tonight. As far as the slippers go, any tips on getting those in, i.e. better views or reference points for making sure they are in their receptacles? As I said, I think the rear one is in right; I got the slipper in what I felt was the receptacle and then I had to sort of bend the tensioner assembly back due to the curvature of the slipper (this is where I felt the springiness/tension) and into its place within the crankshaft. I then held it carefully in place while bolting it on. A couple attempts before this, I would get close to getting in bolted on and then I would feel it slip out but I finally got it on. If it sounds like I am doing something wrong please let me know. The manual definitely makes it look and sound easier than it actually is! Lucas
Turns out I had the slipper bars on wrong and also the copper wire I was using to reset the tensioner was not allowing the full amount of slack so I used something a little stronger. Finally got everything back on correctly and timed according to the manual. Next step is painting the engine, valve covers, and side covers. Any suggestions on what temperature I need to use for my high heat paint? 500 degrees, 1000?? Thanks, Lucas
