'84 vf1k 17x3.5" wheel on a '84 vf750 (18x3")

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by DeeBee, Nov 25, 2016.

  1. DeeBee

    DeeBee New Member

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    Research shows the vf7's and the vf1k(f/r) share the same swingarm. It also seems that the rear wheels should interchange as the rear disk mount and cash drive appear to be the same. My biggest question is what do I need from the 1000 is just the wheel enough? do I need the spacers? What about the cush drive?
    Ideally I would have a vf1K wheel complete with rotor ,cash, axle spacers , etc. Then I could just mix and match as needed to get proper chain/wheel alignment.
    It looks like I got another maybe 2000 miles on the current rear tire. I would like to have everything ready to swap to the wider wheel before the current tire wears out. Gives me a little time to deal hunt and get things together.

    Anyone done this swap? Seems that the 600f2 swap is more popuar with the 17X4.5 wheel and 150 sized tire. For what it's worth 140x80/17 on a 3.5" as a stock appearing mods free swap would suit me fine. Guess I would not be going to radials but I would rather keep the vintage look and feel and just get a more modern gen 4 or 5 later on.

    Then redo the old vf with 750 crank/rods and some other internal, ignition goodies shouldn't take much to get one up to the '87's 100+ HP rating or about 15% more power but that's another project for another day.
     


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  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    You need the 1000F cush drive for the wheel, it is smaller diameter. Also, now is the time to mix and match a little more . Forget the 750 rear disc, it's ridiculously big and thick. You can go 1000 items, that brings em down one size. But you can also get a 86/87 VFR caliper bracket and run the smaller VFR rear rotor (or any VF500 rotor).

    The ass of the bike is going to droop even more with the 17" lower profile tire. Ideally you would want an aftermarket shock with ride height adjustment to compensate. Or braze the front air cross over over holes on the forks so you can slide them up in the triple clamps and get that front end out of the lower atmosphere.

    I modified a stock shock for ride height adjustability just for this purpose, but these shocks are junk in the first place , so not the best option. I just had access to people and equipment at my last job and it made it easy. The bike wasn't anywhere close to getting a new shock, so I thought what the hell.

    Highly recommend going with a DMr modified CBR shock to go along with your wheel swap. I've done it on two 1000s.
     


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