6th Gen VFRNess trouble

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by digitallyhip, Jun 9, 2010.

  1. digitallyhip

    digitallyhip New Member

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    I have emailed and spoken with Tightwad and we cannot figure this out.

    Bike: 2003 w/ABS

    VFRNess is installed and with the ignition on but the motor not running, all the voltages check out.

    But when I try to start the engine, if it catches at all, it runs terribly and then dies within 30 seconds.

    If I pull the connection (blue wire tapped into the red/black Honda wire) to switched power, the engine runs properly. If I start the bike with that connection off, it runs perfectly. If I plug the blue wire back in, the engine dies immediately.

    This behaviour is constant, no matter what the source of voltage to the blue wire is. I have replaced the relay twice. No change.

    What gives?

    Please?
     


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  2. betarace

    betarace New Member

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  3. digitallyhip

    digitallyhip New Member

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    Thanks, but Tightwad=JT. He says this shouldn't be happening.
     


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  4. sstoynov

    sstoynov New Member

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    I was just installing the VFRNess on my '02 ABS VFR and nowI have similar issues - when the key is on accessory and the bike is not started you can hear a weird bussing sound from the dashboard. The ABS light is a lot darker comparing if I use the OEM wiring. So if I plug back the OEM connectors to the R/R - no buzzing sound - it only happens with the VFRNess on. And BTW what I am supposed to do with the original left out connectors witch were connected to the R/R?

    Also with the VFRNess, the bike starts, the voltage to the battery is constant: 14.2V (higher than with the orig wiring) but it dies for no reason sometimes. No pattern... Disconnected the blue connector for the acc, as suggested above - no difference - it keeps on dying.

    Any idea if I need some more special wiring for the ABS model with the VFRNess?
     


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  5. Allyance

    Allyance Member

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    In the OEM harness connector there is a white/black (mine was black) wire that is connected to the output of the R/R that supplies +12vdc to ignition system through stop/start switch.[​IMG]
     


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  6. sstoynov

    sstoynov New Member

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    Yep I noticed that white/black wire going in the OEM connector. I even tried feeding 12V to it but no difference. What are you suggesting to do with it?
    After I installed the VFRNess, my OEM connectors (which used to be connected to the R/R) are not connected to anywhere anymore and one of them has this white/black wire in it - is that how it is supposed to be after installation of the VFRNess?
     


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  7. sstoynov

    sstoynov New Member

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    I think I found my fault. The VFRNess is supposed to connect in-line with only ONE connector - the one coming from the R/R.
    Now I don't have any connectors hanging out - not connected to anywhere and all the problems disappear.

    I am still not sure what will happen if I don't connect the white/black wire to +12V? With the VFRNess in place - I see that this white/black wire gets disconnected, but I don;t notice any issues. Should I bother putting a jumper inside the connector to feed it to +12V?

    thanks
     


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  8. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    I tryed Allyance suggestion on a 6th gen ABS R/R job and being a hot lead to the positive side of the battery the lights came on when power at the battery was applied. Not good.... Dunno how Ally got away with it. - IMHO - its not a good idea.

    - I'm still a proponent of a direct wire of the R/R to the battery, skip the weak link in the harness, and no VFRness needed. Its a bandaid. Save your bucks.
     


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  9. Allyance

    Allyance Member

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    When I upgraded my R/R to a Series Shinengen, I wired the output of the R/R directly back to battery with 2 #10 wires, I also hardwired the 3 Stator leads to the custom plug to the R/R input. By not using the connector for the output of the R/R to the harness left the feed to the Engine Stop-Starter switch not connected. Since the two wires used to feed the battery from the R/R were still connected to the battery, but not being used, I made a small jumper to go between the feed and one of the two wires to the battery. Honda used two wires each for the HOT and GROUND connections to split the current the connectors were carrying. Only problem with that is if one connector failed then the other 1/2 would carry full load, but not for long. In the schematic I posted it shows the wire as a W/Bl (White/Black), but on my 2003, it was a plain black wire. The Stop/Start switch has to get it's +12vdc from somewhere, bridging the connector was the simplest way. Been running fine for almost 8 months, no problems.
     


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  10. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    I guess we're at agree to disagree. We traded emails and stuff, and for us it didnt work. We left the plug hanging, taped it up, and everthing worked as it should. Next one, I'll do the same.
    Brews to you friend....
     


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  11. Allyance

    Allyance Member

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    Thanks, don't know what the difference is, I was just going by the schematic and the logic that if the wire was in the connector, it had to be used! Since I am not familiar with the VFRness and made my own, that is probably the difference. They had already caught the problem.
     


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