6th Gen PAIR mod question

Would blocking the vacuum hose at the right rear of the airbox be enough to suffice testing this mod before unplugging electronics and blocking off the PAIR valves and pulling the guts out?

I'd like to give it a test run for a little while before commiting to ripping the whole thing out.

 

yes. many have done this as their permanent mod. you can stuff a marble in the hose to block it off.... or many other things as well. you're almost certain to like it and want to buy the block off plates from a&a performance.

 

I used a marble to block off pair valve this works fine, I have a 07 vfr with POWER COMMANDER 3 USB, O2 ELIMINATERS, K&N FILTER, LEO VINCE SLIP ONS, I HAD A LOT OF POPPING WITHOUT BAFFELS IN, AFTER ELIMINATING THE PAIR VALVE I HAVE NO MORE POPPING AT ALL.

 

if you are following the johnnychada website everything on there is reversable if you dont like the outcome you can easily hook it back up. but i deffinately say you will like and notice a positive difference

 

Is there a sweet "how to" for 6th gen like there is for the 5th's?

 

Ask you shall receive

http://vfrworld.com/forums/5th-generation-1998-2001/35929-how-pair-removal-5th-generation.html

 

Although... it may not be what you asked for! otstir:

 

Hahaha seem to be some of the members having problem with the mod as well......Smiley how is the bike run after the mod?

 

So the 6th gen is the same as the 5th?

 

I used that write up as a guide on my 6th gen. I ended up removing the PAIR stuff, evap lines/can, etc. Never set out to do so but after accidentally buggering up one of the formed vaccum lines and seeing how much a replacement was, I decided to gut the bikes PAIR/Evap I removed all of the hoses and capped off the little 'nipples' on the throttle body. Made sure to leave the MAP sensor.

After re-assembling the bike, it started and immediately died. I crapped my pants. Re-tried it and it started but the bike runs a bit differently, start up idle dropped to about 800 then as it warms up, goes up to 1200. Mellower exhaust sound. No major superbike power boost and can't say I notice the weight loss (only weighed in at 4lbs of stuff). Every so often, I feel like there may be a little flat spot between 5-6000 just before VTEC kicks in but not sure as it doesn't seem consistent. If given a choice, I would not have touched it since it runs great with it in place. So far it's been reliable but that cold low idle bugs me a little. If I increase the idle, then it's too fast when warm.

 

It's tough to say because I removed the PAIR system at the same time I did the valve adjustment. I replaced the air filter too.

The bike definitely runs better than it did before, which I attribute the the valve adjustment. I have done the valve check and adjustment to my Viffer, 954 and the Ninja 500 and they all rewarded me with a very noticeable increase in performance. The engines rev quicker and run smoother.

I did notice a drop in warm idle on the VFR. I bumped this up a bit and all is fine. Cool idle isn't an issue for me because I have a manual fast idle lever, which is common to the 98-99 bikes.

 

Yes look like it I have the link for the 5th gen above

 

http://vfrworld.com/forums/5th-generation-1998-2001/35929-how-pair-removal-5th-generation.html

 

I agree with you on that. The reason I removed it was to get rid of the clutter.

We did the exact same thing to my friend's 2001 model. His valves were further out than mine, so there is no way to know if it helped him. He tells me the bike runs a hell of a lot better, but my money is on the valve adjustment.

 

I did the pair removal only this past weekend and I can tell a difference for sure. Its not anything huge but when coming out of a corner and giving it that initial bit of throttle it is much smoother. I also had the lower idle but just turned it up a hair. I felt the same way, that how much could it help, but I'm very happy I did it and wish I had done it long ago.

 

if you want an even bigger difference, synchronize the starter valves too on the throttle body.

 

What kind of tool or tools do you need to do the starter valves? Mine is the 98 by the way

 

The only thing you need is a screwdriver and a 4-meter monometer. It is easier and cheaper to make one than find one for four cylinders if you don't already have one available. Manometer, Throttle, Bodies, Carbs, Balancer, balancing carburettors, throttle, synchronization - YouTube

The procedure is in the manual and very easy to do.