6th Gen: disconnecting the rear brake light switch (temporarily)?

So my bike had a stationary accident (high winds, blowing debris, you know the drill) that left me with a broken right front footpeg/brake pedal/etc. bracket:



I have a new (to me) bracket that came with all the appropriate gear still attached, so I am reluctant to make the swap on my own (it looks like I'll have to bleed the rear brakes and I am wary of the ABS), so I am waiting for the chance to get it in to a mechanic for that fix.

But in the mean time, my brake light is on constantly. I do not use my rear brakes at all, and I am concerned that I be as visible as possible, so I am considering disconnecting the brake light switch, which I assume is connected via this spring:



But there is a second spring further back (hiding from the camera). So I have questions:

1. Will disconnecting this spring leave my brake light off?
2. Will that cause any other, non-brake light effects?
3. What am I missing?

Thanks, everyone.

David

 

wouldnt it be easier to just take the bulb out or disconnect the connector behind the bulb?

 

Um... no. I want brake lights. I just don't want them on at all times.

 

From the damage I see the brake light should be stuck off. However, I think the simplest and easiest way to disable the rear/foot brake switch would be to unplug the switch. The spring you have a pic of (I think) runs up to your switch. There is wiring coming out the top side of said cylindrical switch that follows up and under the seat. Remove the seat and the right side little triangular (kinda) black panel, the little bundle of connectors is right under there. I think I can see multiple connectors on mine so you should be able to just unplug the one for that switch, sorry to hear about your off/oops, that allways sucks. Good luck sir!!

 

that is not the spring you want to disconnect. The one you want to disconnect is the small spring that attaches to the brake switch. you should be able to see it through the triangular cutout of the rearset. it connects to a round black plastic piece which is the brake switch. reference the service manual page 3-28 for this. removing this spring will only stop the brake lights from coming on when pressing the rear brake pedal.

The spring you are point at is the brake pedal return spring and needs to be left in place.

Replacing the rearset and brake pedal is super simple and you do NOT need to re-bleed the brakes to do so.

On a final note, start using the rear brakes. We don't want to hear about you low siding in a corner from too much brake in the front. You're using the rear brake anyway when you grab the front brake so you might as well use the rest of it with your foot.

 

Thank you both, gentlemen. I have found and disconnected the rear brake switch circuit (exactly where you predicted, Metallican), and have started thinking about the rear brake in corner helping to avoid low siding. It now seems naive, but I assumed that ABS would prevent that scenario. I'll keep learning!

 

Glad to hear. I highly suggest learning about the linked brakes on your bike and understanding how they work, followed by proper braking techniques and how the application of specific braking can increase stability and safety. While up to 90% of a motorcycle's stopping power can come from the front brakes, the rear can do so much more beyond 10% stopping power. Rider education and training can save you long before your gear has to attempt to prevent injury in most cases.

 

this isnt the greatest idea, the rear brake will not help prevent a lowside. Do yourself a favor and read Twist of the Wrist II - The effect you are trying to achieve (unloading the front suspension in a turn) is the correct instinct, but the way to do it is via smooth throttle application in the turn. Adding rear brake to cure a lowside is a mistake - you will crash.

 

the pics are gone but you can adjust the brake switch to make it come on and off

 

Thanks, 02. I will look at doing this once the new bracket is in place (assuming that the light is still always on).

 

You bleed ABS brakes just like normal brakes. Just use the proper procedure. No big deal.

Get a glass jar and fill it with about one inch of fluid and a hose to connect onto the bleeder.
Make sure the hose is submerged in the fluid in the jar. Use the fluid specified in your shop manual.

The ABS brakes are the same as regular brakes. What is different is that there are sensors that compare the speed of the front wheel and back wheel via computer. and a porportioning valve that makes adjustment based on all the factors. If you look in your shop manual it probably shows the location of the sensors.

BTW that bracket can be welded by a competent TIG welder.

 

Thanks, Donald, but I was able to leave the original brake equipment attached to the brake line and just replace the bracket. I was stunned to find that the brake pedal was missing its circlip, so nothing was holding it on!

And once everything was reconnected (including the brake switch light), the brake lights returned to normal operation.