2003 VFR stability

hi all, so i haven't been riding long, got this 03 VFR, it's been windy in Ohio and i started thinking "riding in this wind sucks" but a few days it hasn't been windy and i think it's something w/ the bike, im by no means a mechanic so most likely i'm taking this to honda service center but not quite sure where the problem is.

first im 255, the bikes and 03 w/ 36k miles, the tires seem good to me, mich pilot power are model.

the symptom: it's not a wobble, it's not a vibration, it's not bouncy, it's not spinning out, the best i decribe it is it feels like im on ice, it's just this feeling of not being stable, kind of like when the wind hits the side but more of a consistent feeling. this happens around 40+ mph. i haven't ridden allot but had a suz 500 and my roomie had a CBR i rode quite abit and neither felt like this on the road. any ideas where it comes from? I also notice it more when i've been riding for 30 minutes or so, seems like maybe tires warm up or shock breaks in?

shock: is this shock factory? when i look in owners manual it shows that i can turn and adjustment on shock, i don't have that adjustment? normal? I have knob on side that i've rode w/ on normal setting ( seven clicks) a few more clicks and maxed out, seems same to me. i have read about measuring and adjusting sag, should i be measuring sag for adj? am i just to fat? maybe i need a huskyboy spring? dampening screw? i tend not to think shock rebound is a problem because i dont feel it bouncing but maybe?

i have this knob:



book just says firmer ride, not really anything about rider weight.



book shows i should be able to adjust this:



my shock looks like this:



here is this dampening screw:





tires: could this be an alignment/balance problem? i dont see uneven wear on the tire. could it be tire pressure? mine are at 36, when i got bike i took it to powersports and they did a 100 pt inspection or whatever, changed fluids, tires are at 36, where he set them, i see guys are saying 40 and 42? why? could that help my problem? my tire doesn't even say what it should be set at, whats diff between 36 and 42 other than more air in tire? i dont see a bulge in tire or sidewall but that could cause it?





lastly, what about the chain? powersports said it was good but could the wrong slack cause the tire to feel like its slipping? Im debating on just taking it to honda service center, having new tires put on it, all aligned/balanced but im really wondering about the shock and my weight.

 

I'm a believer in keeping it simple. Probably because a that's all my pea brain can handle.

That last photo you posted seems to show a distinct flat spot on the tire, which I think could lead to your "squirrly" feeling. A squared off tire will definitely give the feeling of side to side motion. It almost looks like its down to the wear bar indicators, whereas the "sides" of the tire appear to have plenty of meat left.

After tires, suspension would definitely be the next thing. These VFRs were never known to come with great suspension right outta the box.

I'm a big guy too at 245, and combined with a 500# bike, its usually pretty solid on those windy days.

Correct tire pressure is 36 front, 42 rear.

No offense, but your chain is a disgusting rusty mess. It needs to be replaced. And if you're doing a chain, do the sprockets at the same time. You do NOT want to have a chain failure on the road. That has the potential for catastrophe.

 

:hss: First let clean and adjust the chain If your bike ABS and the knob is for your preload adjustment. at 255 you might be a bit too much for stock spring. Did you make adjust to the hard setting and preload to the max and try it out. Tires and rider skill can make a big diffrent.
If you have the $$$$ invest in custom suspension set up. Good luck and ride safe.

 

squirrly, that might be the word.


when i rub my finger from one side of tire to other i can feel the bumps on each side of flat spot on middle, normally you cant feel that ridge/bump? im all for new tires, taking it to honda shop, guys are saying PR3s on forums, they are closed today but if shop doesn't sell them should i go w/ what they recommend or buy them online and take them in with me? that piss them off?


Did you make adjust to the hard setting and preload to the max and try it out.

i don't know what that means, hard setting? i haven't touch a screw, i'll turn a knob but messing w/ screws, tire fall of or something my mechanical skill level. book says knob is pre-load adj knob, i turned it all the way left then 7 clicks right, after that i kept turning it right testing it and now its all the way right, highest pre-load.

in relation to how the bike rides/handles, whats diff between 36 and 42? should i put 42r w/ the flat spot until i get tires or just leave it alone? i feel like tom in days of thunder "i dont know what you are talking about harry" when im reading these forums or watching youtube stuff. i keep seeing take riding courses, i feel fine riding it safely, i need a mechanics course, seems the guys w/ the biggest balls are ones that fix their own bike then ride it.

that isn't original chain and powersports did tension so i feel ok about it, it looks worse in that pic than in real life, that pic really came out looking rusted. when they do tires i'll have honda look at it.

 

Get some tires and inflate them properly, Have them check your steering head bearings for wear and/or possible adjustment and adjust your suspension preload and rebound settings - experiment with them. Other than that, the next step would be to get the suspension redone for your weight - which is what I have done and it makes a world of difference.

 

the next step would be to get the suspension redone for your weight

what does that entail? cost? just a hardier spring? i can't buy a $1800 ohlin spring deal for a $4000 bike, just cant. how fat are you? whats max weight for stock spring? it holds 2, am i 2 people worth of weight?

 

Not that it hasn't been said already, but yuck on the tire and chain You could also be dealing with the tire age. And once you get those new tires, keeping on top of the tire pressure will help the ride and longevity of the tires.

Many of us would not blindly trust a shop either, but when you don't know any better, it's hard to know when to question them. You can clean and check that they adjusted correctly, but someone who let's the tires get that flat probably didn't care for the chain or sprockets either.

Have you taken any kind of maintenance class or even a motorcycles for dummies book?

And unless you are around 150-160, you are too "fat" for stock. But you can have it adjusted (by that elusive shop that you do trust) to help. At 255 aftermarket may be the way to go.

 

NIH read this and let me know if you understand and able to do some adjustment yourself

Suspension Tuning:  Preload

JD is a member here and he do custom suspension the whole front and rear I think around $700. Since you are new to the bike my suggestion is taking your time and learn about your bike ask if you have any question. Ride her for a while try to see what you like and what not like. Come back and tell us the problem so we can help you better.

 

BTW The rear tire seem to be fine I think I can sqeeze out another 1000 miles or more :wink:
Where about in Ohio, post up your exact location in hope one of the member closes by can take a look and help you.

 

The stock suspension set up was probably made for a 120 pound japanese guy...and I am not kidding, lol

I used Daugherty Motorsports:

Daugherty Motorsports - Motorcycle Suspension Performance and Modification

I sent him my forks and he did a CBR 929 shock for me. I had him set mine up for 215lbs. Prices are reasonable (well under a grand) and he does great work! At your weight, this is probably a must do as was said above.

 

Anything much more than 35-40,000 miles and you can assume the OEM shock is getting weak.

Also, based upon my experience, your original headset bearings are in need of replacement by around 30-35, 000 miles.

The wide flat stripe in the middle of the rear tire is certainly a contributing factor to it's feeling spooky.

 

im in findlay ohio, anybody wanna check out my vfr for beer?

thanks for link, that's a little more clear on sag, apparently it's important, i had read a few things on it but applying what im reading to vfr seems difficult, back to my top pic of rear shock, vfr only has the pre-load knob? this is because mine is abs model? my spring doesn't have anything to adjust, the knob does it all. so i get somebody to measure sag all i can do is turn that knob in back and see what measurements look like.

 

That bike spent a lot of time slabbing or commuting. That is why you have the flat spot. You will feel a bit of a wobble as you corner over those ridges which is what you may be experiencing, part of anyways. And yup, that chain has to go...along with the sprockets. Definitely change the sprockets same time as chain. And promise yourself you will look after it better than the last ass who owned that bike.

Now the condition of that rear tire. Depending on how you are going to be riding this thing, that tire is still good for a couple thou. Mine all ended up like that because ti was a commuter. When the wear bars are flat, then you have 2/32 inch of tread left and that is on the illegal border, likely illegal.

I know lots here seem to promote the PR3. I had a set, and have no complaints about them. They are a good tire. But so is the PR2 for several bucks less. Those PR3's may be better on the wet roads if you are riding aggressively, but from my experience, you will not notice the difference with normal driving, freeway speeds, between the two. If they are the same price, maybe the PR3's are the ones to get. Just remember, the more rubber on a dry road, the better the traction. The treads and grooves are to channel water.

BTW. Until I retired, I commuted 100 miles round trip year round, probably 75% of the time in the rain, since 2006. On my 6th set of tires so have had some experience with the day to day stuff. Now if you are a trackie type person, I have nothing to say that should be listened to anyway.

 

thanks randy, i work at home so i really just ride because i like riding, i've never been on a track and probably never will, i dont really expect to go anywhere or very far from home, riding in rain isn't really fun so doubt i do it unless i get caught out in it.

i didn't realize PR2 was still around, thought like out with pr2 in w/ pr3, i see pr2 still for sale on revzilla. pr3 rear $5 cheaper than pr2. is this 180/55ZR17 even the right tire on the bike? would a diff size be better for my weight or is putting diff size on bike not a good thing? i'm really just a evening/weekend mess around town out in the country ride in a big circle around my house type rider. i like to get on it and curves dont bother me at moderate speeds. i may get to put 2000 miles on bike this year if im really lucky.

ive never taken any type of mechanic class anything, shop in HS was woodworking, I'm an IT guy. i understand how it works basically, the motor ect. just not exactly what tightening this or loosening that means as far as riding it. i'd be pissed if i wrecked cause of gravel or my own mistake, i'd be super pissed if i wrecked because i did something to the bike that caused it.

 

I think they still make the PR2 but maybe not. There are definitely lot of them out there still. But watch the codes on the side of those tires, that they are not selling you an old tire that has been sitting on the rack for several years. The rubber will be brittle and the tire less durable. You should be able to google what the numbers on the side wall means.

Your tire size for the rear is correct. Front should be a 120/70ZR17. I have always changed both tires same time. Most will get more out of their front than rear but I treat my tires same as I treat the chain and sprockets. Change them all. But for the sake of 5 bucks on a tire, hell go with the PR3. The difference here was something like $35 per tire. Do yourself a huge favor when you change the tires though. Have them pull out those silly assed valve stems and replace them with a nice angled valve stem. There are lots out there varying prices. It makes a huge difference checking air pressure and filling with air over those stock stems.

Keep the tire pressure constant and check tension and lube the chain lots. (Tire pressure, if you forget, should be on a sticker on top of the chain guard near the forward section. Clearly visible unless it has been removed) A reason you want to chuck that chain as opposed to trying to clean it up, there appears to be an over abundant presence of corrosion on that chain. There is a pretty good possibility that the corrosion has worked its way down between the chain plates and you now have a rough surface for the O rings or X rings to rub on and therefor wear abnormally. Those rubber rings are what keeps the factory lube in and grit out of the pivots. Wear them down from corrosion, and well, you know the rest.

 

the original owner said he did chain and sprockets but when i took it to powersports it was def one thing that i wanted checked and reported on, he said teeth were great, chain was fine.

but he also said tires were fine and even remember he said 36, i thought, 36 ok, whtever it's suppose to be, great. so if powersports can't even put air in my tires right, wonder how many other things they don't even know if its right or wrong. i'll call honda dealership tomorrow, tires going on, i'll see what they stock and price, they are checking chain, then once tires are on i'm going to have them check the sag, set the pre-load for me on it and get their opinion on shock wear/quality. figure i'll ride abit w/ new tires and then determine from opinion and riding what to do about the shock if anything.

back to tires. my front is 34.5, check it 3x same reading 3x. back is 36.0, 3x same, i bought a tire gauge at autozone, its digital and it sucks at getting it to read. ive put about 300 miles on bike since it came back from powersports, would 36 not 42 on rear cause that flat spot in 300 miles? i wish i would have taken close up pics when i got it.

and i have the sticker on bike, never even noticed it, 399 lbs max, why stop eating.

 

revzilla was best price i found, free shipping from a code on this site, thanks vfrworld, honda dealer said $150 install balance/alignment.


Item# 754494
Michelin Pilot Road 3 Front Tires
Wheel Location: Front / Tire Size: 120/70ZR17 58W
1 $137.95 $137.95

Item# 754500
Michelin Pilot Road 3 Rear Tires
Wheel Location: Rear / Tire Size: 180/55ZR17 73W
1 $168.95 $168.95

Your order is not complete until you click:
Merchandise $306.90
Shipping FREE!
Shipping Surcharge $10.00
Credit Applied ($10.00)
Total $306.90
TeamZilla Cash Earned $15.00

 

That price is about right for the PR3
$150 to install :hss: take the wheel off and drop them off at any bike shop they will balance and install for about $60 clamps

 

PR3 came in friday, fast shipping revzilla, took them over in car last night, was going to get them on next friday, guy called this morning and said if wanted to bring it over he'd get it done. had a nice break in the contant ohio crap storm rain shit weather. just rode home, little sprinkle, not enough to gage anything about tires on wet, about 25 miles, 50-80 felt good, no squirrely, greasy, icey feel anymore at all, they said take it easy for 200 miles, np, road back fairly straight.

have them 36f, 42r, he said they would lose some over next week, i'll check often now, have tire gauge in my tank bag.

he cranked the pre-load while i sat on it, kinda bounced on it, he said it's fine. we didnt measure anything, i could feel it stiffen up more as he cranked it.

 

Enjoy your new tires! But please take it easy on them for the first couple of days. They need to get scuffed up a little bit before you play too hard (if you do). Great tire!