2000 VFR800FI - Charging Problem

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by ccsteehee, Sep 5, 2019.

  1. ccsteehee

    ccsteehee New Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    Map
    Well, bike died today while waiting for a traffic light to change.

    Boosted, limped back home.

    Checked RR wiring, all looked clean and proper. Tossed in a spare (newer) battery from my other bike and cleaned the +/- connections at battery terminals. I also installed a chintzy voltage reader.

    On initial startup, the voltage shows about 13.5-14 Volts. Once the bike warms up (within 5 mins), the voltage reading drops to about 12.5V. While driving (5000 RPM), it sits at around 12.5V. At idle (waiting at lights), it drops to about 12.2V.

    I presume this in not entirely normal, and feel the 5000rpm voltage should sit at around 13.5V, etc. I havent done the stator test yet... I suspect it may be faulty.... any suggestions?
     
  2. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

    Country:
    Romania
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2006
    Messages:
    4,127
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Map
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2019
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

    Country:
    New Zealand
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2013
    Messages:
    2,727
    Likes Received:
    625
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Map
    Also take a look at the RR/alternator connector on the left side below the sidecover/seat area, the connector has a bad habit of corroding which makes it get hot and eventually melt.
     
  4. ccsteehee

    ccsteehee New Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    Map
    Well, went thru a series of test. The connectors are very clean, and i added some contact cleaner to help out.

    The generator seems to be fine... 18V at idle, ~50V at 5000rpm across all pins. The resistance was 0.2Ohm across all pins. Checked both in a cold state, and at a hot state. Same results.

    From the RR i'm getting 19V output... on 3 of 5 pins. The other pin is ground, and unsure what the 4th pin is for. The 19V was tested at idle. The RR is one of the 'year 2000 good ones', original Honda part.

    I am unsure if this ok....

    All said, the bike is still exhibiting the same behavior. On startup and during warm up, voltage is a delightful 13.5-14.5. Once warmed up (within a few minutes), voltage drops to 12.5V while riding, and 12.2V while at idle.

    Perhaps the RR is fried... or maybe this is the way its supposed to be?
     
  5. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2017
    Messages:
    1,116
    Likes Received:
    315
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Western Lower Peninsula, Michigan
    Map
    Regarding the voltage readings: the stock RR on mine had simalar readings with a higher reading at idle than above 4k. At the higher rpms the charging system could not rise above 13.2v. After replacing the RR with a used unit from a Yamaha R1 the Voltages are 13.8v at idle and 14.2-14.5v at speed.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2019
  6. ccsteehee

    ccsteehee New Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    Map
  7. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2017
    Messages:
    1,116
    Likes Received:
    315
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Western Lower Peninsula, Michigan
    Map
    Don't buy any cheap R/R!
    Go to www.roadstercycle.com for the best source of information on quality R/R's.
    I'm sure that if you purchase that Amazon R/R you will need to replace it again soon.
     
    One Ida 31 and mello dude like this.
  8. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2015
    Messages:
    311
    Likes Received:
    53
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    melton mowbray
    Map
    If voltage drops with revs its almost certainly the R/R.
    Ive got a second hand unit of an R1 (the big finned one )on mine
     
  9. ccsteehee

    ccsteehee New Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    Map
    Well, I went ahead and bought the cheepo RR from amazon. Will see how that goes.... a bit of a risk-taker rebel, for sure!
     
  10. ccsteehee

    ccsteehee New Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    Map
    Well, chinese rectifier came in. No joy. When i plug in either rectifier, (old OEM or new China) and put AC probes onto exposed stator wiring (in connector plug) when running, I get around 9v AC at idle. When i disconnect either recrifier, the stator bounces back get 20v ac at idle, 50v ac at 5000rpm from stator, which is nornal.

    Wonder if this is normal? When i plug the rectifiers in, i can tell that the motor runs a bit 'harder'. Either way, im not getting 13.5-14.5 V dc at the battery. I think its time to bring the bike into the shop. This is a new-to-me bike. *sigh*
     
  11. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

    Country:
    Romania
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2006
    Messages:
    4,127
    Likes Received:
    318
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Map
  12. ccsteehee

    ccsteehee New Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    Map
    ok, had a chat with a mechanic. he thought it is the stator... if under load (When plug in rectifier) the voltage drops (AC was dropping to 9V), then probably stator. Will have to hand this over the the pros to figure out.
     
  13. Darrel

    Darrel New Member

    Country:
    Australia
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2019
    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Well ?! Any news for us ??
     
  14. ccsteehee

    ccsteehee New Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    Map
    Not yet. Retested Stator... getting all the right readings. Could be a second bad RR. This will be a spring thing to look at... getting colder (in Canada, eh). Will report back in May.
     
  15. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2006
    Messages:
    9,839
    Likes Received:
    743
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Buffalo, NY
    Map
    inspect the plug on top of the starter relay for signs of melting as charging voltage goes through the red wires.
     
  16. ccsteehee

    ccsteehee New Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2019
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    Map
    Great news!!!

    Bought a second RR (from Amazon), and it is charging fine now... 14.3 V, rock solid. Seems that was the problem. We'll see how long it lasts... voltage.jpg rectifier.jpg
     
    Hans Olsson likes this.
  17. DirtBikeDave

    DirtBikeDave New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2020
    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Hey, brand new member here.
    I had the same issue and got 2 r/r's from China. They both checked out. Just needed longer screws. Anyways, every vfr I've ever had (and 2 of my other bikes) have burned up an r/r. So now I'm keeping a spare under my seat. Only $25 each on eBay. Good luck!
     
  18. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2019
    Messages:
    1,228
    Likes Received:
    450
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Millgrove, ON
    Map
    It would be interesting to know their longevity, can't trust they are mofsets... an R/R doesn't usually fail suddenly, mostly by overheating at the connectors, then when that overloads, it can't do its job... I don't think you need a spare under the seat, better to have a voltmeter in view so you can monitor deterioration.
    A better solution to me is a Shindengen FH0020 I believe, mofset like on Roadster Cycle, you can find these used for Yamaha FJ-09 and later FJR's, and they never had R/R problems. If the model is not stamped on the end of it, it's likely a fake Shindengen.
     
  19. DirtBikeDave

    DirtBikeDave New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2020
    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Well, the times I've had one fail, over an hour from home, on a late night solo ride... Would have been great to plug and play the spare! So far, my connectors have been good, every time, except for one (which still worked, despite looking a bit burnt).
    Also, the OEM units are excellent. But heat will kill even the best of them, and vfr produces a lot of heat. So, especially on early models (where the r/r was mounted very close to the rear jugs) it is an inherent issue. So even a 'better' r/r may have earned it's reputation by default of the application it was designed FOR (mounting location and the heat produced by that platform) and not necessarily due to r/r itself.
    Some things I've done in an effort to fight this, are:
    Moving the r/r further away from the primary heat source.
    Using thicker wire.
    Installing a small 12v fan (from a computer), directed at the r/r and connector.
    Using Water Wetter or similar product (which is just a great thing to do for ANY liquid cooled engine).
    If they fail now, it won't be because I didn't prep, and I can plug and play my $25 spare.
    But suite yourself!
     
  20. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2019
    Messages:
    1,228
    Likes Received:
    450
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Millgrove, ON
    Map
    I'll just say the FJR had a 600 watt stator and the mofset will handle high outputs or manage "regulation" better than the OEM type which get rather hot and overloaded. But, having a spare OEM is not a bad thing, it still shouldn't die suddenly, it will be a slow degradation... the sudden part is when the wiring fries.
     
Related Topics

Share This Page