2 Batteries in 4 Months? 04 VFR800A

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and am looking for a resolution for my bike.

I've had the bike for 2 years (2004 Honda VFR800A) and I replaced the battery back in January of this year due to it not charging properly and the bike left me stranded a few times. Granted the battery was probably about 5 years old though.

My bike stays in the garage and is usually on a trickle charger. I went to start it the other day, and it had absolutely no charge, even though its been on the charger for the last 2 weeks. I jump started it and let it run for about 5 minutes, but as soon as I disconnected the positive clip from the jumper it died. I had the battery tested and they said it was bad. Its only 4 months old so I'm quite confused as to whats going on.

I've heard it could be Regulator Rectifier issue, but am not entirely sure. I'm waiting on the battery to come in so I wanted to see if anyone had any advice on what it may be before my bike decides to fry another $95 battery.

 

:welcome:

If the bike Quit running as soon as you disconnected the jumpers, Your charging system is NOT working.
There are Numerious Threads here on this issue.

Happy-Riding & be Safe!

 

Check Walmart or many of the online sources for batteries or even local outlets.. Ten bucks says you have R/R failure.

 

It does sound like a charging issue, but you will need more information to determine the root cause. You will need a voltmeter to troubleshoot this yourself, or else find someone to help, or pay a mechanic, etc.

It could be that the trickle charger was defective and spoiled the battery--measure the voltage with and without a load.

It could be that you just happened to get a new battery with a bad cell--it could happen.

The old battery may have been the original, over 5 years old ? If so i'd get another just like it--that is great lifetime for a motorsickle battery.

It could be that the RR has crapped out, or it could be an open circuit due to burnt wiring, or it could be the magnets or Stator winding of the alternator--you will need to inspect and make some measurements such as winding resistance, diode drops of the RR, voltage measurements while the bike is running, etc.

 

A lot of could be's... and it could be any of those.

1. Get a new battery, since your going to need that anyway. ($95 seems a bit high - check around as badbilly said. Walmart, Batteries Plus, etc.). You should be able to get one for $75 or so, and maybe use the "other" $20 or $30 to buy a new trickle charger just in case the one you have is shot?

2. If you're not mechanically inclined - like me - do a visual inspection. Pull your fairings off. Check your grounds. Check your R/R wiring. Check the spade connector plugs or whatever they call those things that wiring harnesses plug together.

3. If you don't own a voltmeter, get one. $10 at Walmart. $15 and up and the local auto parts store. I paid $22 for mine. Had absolutely no idea how to use it when I got it, but its proven to be a great $22 investment. If you need help on how to work it, let us know.

 

5:1 on that ten bucks it's the R/R..

Or... some generous soul might offer to buy his bike for fifty bucks..

 

FI bikes don't run without power. These batteries don't last quite as long as I'm used to.

 

Disconnect the 3 yellow R/R wires
Set multimeter to diode mode
Watch here starting from 10.15sec,Good explanation.
Motorcycle Repair: How to Check a 3 Phase Bridge Rectifier on a 2009 Kawasaki KLR 650 - YouTube
Easy test to do.
Check the fuses,connectors.There is a 30amp fuse going to your battery from R/R.Check that.
I suspect R/R failure.
Buy Mosfet style regulator which runs lot cooler and more efficient.I installed Yamaha R1 regulator 05 or newer.They are superior regulators.
Good luck

 

I had the same problem. Was regulator/ rectifier. My batteries actually had proper voltage at around 12.8 to 13.0 volts but the regulator was overcharging the battery and was taking away the cranking amps so it would not start. I will bet 100 bucks on it being regulator/ rectifier