1985 Honda vf1000R missing gas tank need help to revive it

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by hondaguy714, Sep 27, 2021.

  1. sixdog

    sixdog Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2010
    Messages:
    597
    Likes Received:
    146
    Trophy Points:
    58
    Location:
    CA
    Map
    Yes you did Mike … and you gave him a title with it as well…


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Captain 80s likes this.
  2. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
     
  3. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    thanks for helping me to get the tank. I will try to work on it as soon as possible on my day off. Does any one know any tail sections for sale for cheap? Ebay is selling a few for $399 each for the tail section plastic. My friend get this bike with missing tank for $500. It has back fees for $300 or $400. I don't want to throw in any more cash without getting it running first. Thank
     
  4. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2016
    Messages:
    1,952
    Likes Received:
    542
    Trophy Points:
    143
    Location:
    London
    Map
    always, always get it running first. You don't need fairings to do this.
     
  5. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    guys, I need your help asap. I able to remove the carbs out of the engine after many hours of removing other parts in the way. After 1 hour of prying the old carbs boot the front one ( Heat gun was not available) , i was able to remove the carbs off the the engine. I'm doing valve adjustment right now but UNABLE TO TURN THE ENGINE AT THE CRANKSHAFT BOLT BY TURN COUNTER CLOCKWISE per manual that I download from this site (is this the right direction). I think the engine is STUCK (last sticker is 1998 only has 30,000 miles), when i turn the crankshaft bolt counter clockwise it'd only loosen the crankshaft bolt and engine DID NOT ROTATE but when I tried turning the clock wise position engine didn't turn either, looks like i could break the bolt itself by tightening it and i don't want that. I installed the battery and try just a touch of the starter button but I just hear loud noise at the Starter solenoid. I jumped the positive and negative bolt there at the starter solenoid it did nothing but sparks could be trying to power the starter but to no avail. I have a couple of starter solenoid from magna and i can try that. Another option is bump starting it physically running with the bike and jump on it ( heavy bike) but I have to clean and refill the hydraulic clutch and brake. I got some down time yesterday and today to work on this 85 Honda VF1000R . Im really excite. I sprayed a lot of WD 40 into the spark plug holes to loosen those cylinders just in case. Thank you.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2021
  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2009
    Messages:
    3,685
    Likes Received:
    970
    Trophy Points:
    158
    Location:
    Edmonds, WA
    With the plugs out the motor should turn over pretty easy.
     
  7. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Yes, i did sir. I'm looking to see if which direction should I turn the crank bolt? Counter OR clockwise? Counter clock wise (per manual pdf) would loosen the bolt, clock wise i think the engine is frozen because the rear didn't move an inch. When I put a lot of force into the clockwise position on the crank colt, the bolt and alternator part metal is screeching so I'm scare that I might break the bolt itself. Let me know which direction is correct when I unseize this motor. Thanks

    I'm letting it sit all night with Mystery Marvel oil tonight.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2021
  8. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
     

    Attached Files:

  9. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    I have bad news: I used my sewer snake camera able to take some pics of the valve from looking down where the carbs were attached to. They are all rusty and gunky and nasty. I think they are the back of the valve where I can see the valve stem. I pour a lot of Mystery Marvel Oil (MMO) down for now where the bifurcation into 2 valves and also a lot MMO into the spark plug holes into the piston to loosen the ring. This engine is for sure is seized beyond my skills. I have never unstuck a seized engine before but I'm willing to learn. I'm actually looking at some video on youtube right now on how to do that.
    I'm going to shift it into high gear then rock back and forth. secondly, I'm going to use the alternator bolt to turn the engine back and forward but I'm scare I might strip and break the head off. What else can be done to unstuck this engine? Thank you so much. I'm so disappointed right now. 251595752_1048754379221543_8842579202138194648_n.jpg 251316125_464656371610885_1858785110535418872_n.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2016
    Messages:
    1,952
    Likes Received:
    542
    Trophy Points:
    143
    Location:
    London
    Map
    Hmmm - that looks screwed..
     
  11. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2018
    Messages:
    171
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Looks just like my first Magna resurrection!

    Water sat inside cylinder #2because those valves were open.

    I managed to unstick the engine with lots of penetrating oil and patience. Giving the engine light rocking taps using the rear wheel in top gear.

    Also, you may have rust pits in the valves and their seats, which will lower the compression.

    And it looks like head gaskets are NLA from Honda... eBay has a couple

    You may be screwed. But don't give up!

    Don't use the starter at this point. You Will Break something

    I'd focus on getting it unstuck and see what happens

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2021
  12. straycat

    straycat Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2017
    Messages:
    1,232
    Likes Received:
    396
    Trophy Points:
    83
    You should check carefully into the condition of all the engine parts. Some parts are unobtainable now (crank and rod bearings for example), and no aftermarket stuff out there as far as Im aware.

    I restored 2 of these bikes a couple of yrs ago and was fortunate to have 4 bikes to make 2 good ones. Spares are like hens teeth.
     
  13. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1

    Good morning gentlemen's, I woke up with enthusiasm today but still no luck. I shifted the bike to high gear 5 or 6 and push it back and forth but still engine very stuck. I went on Craigslist to check out anything with VF1000R and I found this posting. Would this involved less work what I have ahead of me with this bike ? Thanks. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/mpo/d/panorama-city-honda-vf1000r-motor-only/7398893475.html

    This engine has a bad second gear . Is this easier to work with compare to a seized engine from sitting for 22 years? Thank you.
     
  14. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2009
    Messages:
    3,685
    Likes Received:
    970
    Trophy Points:
    158
    Location:
    Edmonds, WA
    2nd gear can be replaced without removing the heads or crank. I would 100% go make him an offer.
     
  15. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    We settled
    do you have an tutorial or write up to change it out. Thank you
     
  16. straycat

    straycat Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2017
    Messages:
    1,232
    Likes Received:
    396
    Trophy Points:
    83
    I did the 2nd gear on one of my VF1000R's

    Basic steps are:
    1) strip the left and right side cases off and remove the flywheel/stator off the left and the clutch, starter clutch and all the various gears, shift assembly etc off the right side
    2) Pull the carbs, remove all the coolant lines/tubes etc, drain the oil, remove the starter etc
    Remove the exhaust
    2)Remove the engine. ( a big step granted, but you gotta strip the bike). -- Id also recommend removing the wheels/forks etc and as much as you can on this, its Far Far easier to remove the frame off the engine than it is to remove the engine from a rolling chassis on this bike -- thats little more than controlled fall, and getting it back in is worse. Support the engine on a bike lift and maneuver the frame off
    3) remove the water pump & remove the output shaft cover
    4) probably a few other things to remove that I dont recall off the top of my head
    5) loose the bolts on the top side of the engine case that secure the cases together (there are 4 or 5 I think, shop manual will show you where they are (** I recall one on the right rear under the exhaust port or head area thats very hard to get to and can't be withdrawn completely its kinda captive)
    6) Turn the engine upside down and remove the oil pan , pump and pickup tube
    7) remove all the underside bolts that hold the cases together
    8) split the cases - be careful to observe where the shift forks go as you take it apart
    9) Now you can remove the various Trans shafts and shift forks

    ** Note that its very common for a shift fork to be very badly worn and also the gear dogs wear as well. Hopefully the trans on one bike will provide the spare you need**.

    PM me if you need more details, I have a book with all the steps I did written down, I also had the Factory Shop Manual at the time as well. I have alot of photos too

    Id recommend changing all the coolant Orings when you put it back together - they WILL Leak if you dont

    TIP ** Be very careful the re mating the 2 halves of the cases and gears that you get all the shift forks in the right place - recommend manually shifting it through the gears by hand before you button it all back up in the bike.

    TIP **remember to install the rear exhaust headers BEFORE you put the engine back in the frame

    You can buy an aftermarket gasket set of Ebay that will give you all the gaskets and seals you need

    TIP*** on re-assembly BE SURE to align the timing dot on the starter clutch/sprague clutch with the crank shaft or the bike will not run ***

    TIP** when re assembling the gears and starter clutch on the right Side of the case, you'll have to pry the scissor gears on the clutch to get the other auxiliary gears to mesh -- bit of a PITA of you haven't done it before.

    This is how far stripped the right side of the engine needs to be

    IMG_1732.jpg
    this is how far stripped the left side needs to be
    IMG_1734.jpg

    IMG_1743.jpg

    see the shift fork on the left, its badly worn. I also had a shattered washer and worn gear dogs on mine
    IMG_1765.jpg

    This is how far down Id recommend stripping your bike and remove the frame off the engine

    IMG_1785.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2021
  17. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Thank you sir, I will study this many time over and over before I tackle this job. Let me go and buy the used engine from the seller. It is an hour away. I will probably do it next week or so. Thanks
     
  18. straycat

    straycat Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2017
    Messages:
    1,232
    Likes Received:
    396
    Trophy Points:
    83
    here are a few more pics.

    When you disassemble the trans Shaft(s) and remove the gears, be careful to take pictures and notes on how it goes back together, its easy to get a gear reversed on re assembly. My buddy did his VF100oR and warned me, he got one gear backwards, it all went together fine, but didnt work. Its why you want to shift it manually before you put it back in the frame. Its best to do that before the oil pan goes on , that way you can see the gears and shift forks doing their thing.

    be sure to check for debris, I had broken lock washer parts in there, note the silicone in the oil pickup - dont use silicone to seal the cases, use 3Bond or Permatex Gray
    IMG_1740.jpg


    Since you will have 2 engines apart, its not a bad idea to use the spare lower case to store the bolts in the right place. (that why you see an extra case in this picture...
    IMG_1756.jpg
    here are all the parts from inside the left and right case covers that you have too remove...
    IMG_1715.jpg
    look for broken bits....
    IMG_1755.jpg
     
  19. hondaguy714

    hondaguy714 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1

    Hello, how are you guys doing? I managed to get the engine 4 days ago almost 2 hours round trip plus 1 hour at his house where he shows me how to remove engine and work on the transmission. Per PO's advice it would only need to under cut dog teeth of the second gear. I had him turn the engine counter clockwise from the crank bolt, it turned very nicely compare to my engine which has binding and it was would bind so tight I was able to loosen the alternator bolt. I'm pulling my engine tomorrow. Both engine has 30K miles on them. I will have 2 set of gears to exchanges and inspect. I'm following the directions above from Mr. StrayCat if you have anymore instructions on gears or engine rebuild please email me @ truongho35@gmail.com. Do you have any advice on gear inspections and forks inspections. This video is very infomative:


    Basically, it would be stripped out of both size of the engine off the clutch, starter clutch and the alternator rotor ( special tool order ebay $15). I won't need to remove the heads just flip the engine over access the gears after removing upper crankcase bolts . I would have to remove front and rear muffles and wheels and forks so the frame would be light enough to remove from the engine. I have been learning how motorcycle transmission work on youtube videos and seeing how dog teeth engagement works to transfer the power from counter shaft to main shaft vice versa. Does anyone know which one is the second gear based on the microfiche? Or I have to play around with the gear to be able to identify the second gear. Thank you so much. I've spend so far $400 ( $200 on engine $200 on gas tank) and about $50 on various lubricants to break free my engine on the bike which is now unseized but very low compression on rear cylinders. Both fronts are 180 PSI, rear cylinder number 1 was 40 PSI with blow back intake valves and 150 on the cylinder #3.
    I work on my bikes outside in Orange County Southern California weather so it is very nice weather but still very cold some nights. I don't have a garage space since I live with my in laws, but I have the love for working with bikes and cars. Pics are taken in front of the house. I hope someday I can get a garage. Been thinking to rent a storage units $200 per month near my house to put all my bikes there and tools so i can go there and work but I have 3 kids to take care of and another one is coming this February. I won't have time to wrench unless it is maternity leaves for us here in California is about 3 months then I would have plenty of time to work on my beloved 85 VF1000R. Have a blessed Sunday.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2021
  20. straycat

    straycat Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2017
    Messages:
    1,232
    Likes Received:
    396
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Dont forget to order your gasket kit of Ebay, they (Athena?) make an aftermarket kit with all the stuff you'll need.

    As far as which gears you need to look at, I dont recall off the top of my head, but yes its fairly obvious once you start playing with it which gears engage for 2nd. What I did, after I took off the oil pan and before I split the cases, I put the selector rod back in and clicked through all the gears so I could see what was what. You'll also notice if you fork is worn which gear its pushing, look at that for sure. I recall also changing C6 gear on mine as well.

    re under cutting the dogs, ive heard of this being done as well makes it harder for the gear to slip out or disengage when it shouldnt. Now, im no expert on this but this is what worries me about that. There are 2 types of gears & dogs you'll find. one type are smooth dogs that sit below the circumference of the actual gear teeth, the others are dogs at are (for lack of a better term) extensions of the gear teeth, they are serrated and not smooth like the others. On the former dogs ( smooth ones) I could see how a properly and professionally under cut dog would help, on the others , id fear it would make them more prone to chipping. the smooth dog's Ive never seen chip, ive only seen them wear or get more rounded, the serrated teeth dogs ive seen chipped and missing pieces. So....id recommend seeing a professional on the subject of undercutting, im not that "pro" guy.

    Here you see 2 gears from my VF1000R transmission, the one on the left has the smoother dogs and the one on the left has the serrated dogs that are an extension of the gear teeth.

    you can see the wear on the gear dogs here:


    IMG_1745.jpg


    Here again you can see the bottom gear has the rounded or smooth type dogs below the circumference of the teeth, and the others you see are the ones that I think of as extensions of the gear teeth

    IMG_1760.jpg

    Once you have the engine upside down and the lower case off, the shift fork on the left. (top of this pic) is the one that you may find worn. (see how bad mine was). Check the selector drum for wear as well.

    IMG_1763.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2021
Related Topics

Share This Page