87 VFR 700 No Spark

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Buddy, Apr 26, 2006.

  1. Buddy

    Buddy New Member

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    Hey all,

    I just picked up an 87 that has been sitting garaged with gas in it for about 8 years. List of things done so far:
    1. Drained fuel tank and cleaned it.
    2. New fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, battery, plugs
    3. Changed oil
    4. Cleaned carbs
    Before sitting this bike was running strong. Personal friend and I know this for sure.

    My problem:
    No spark. I get no spark from any of the plugs. Wiring is good (no cuts or corrosion), tested from point A -to- B. I don't think all the coils could be bad.
    With the ignition on, I am only getting 0.08 V (not 12.V) to the back of each coil and in addition I don't hear the fuel pump at all (it shows 0.00 V at the + end of the Fuel pump with ignition on). I have traced the coils and fuel pump to 1 common part (SEE Pictures). It look like a double Diode. The three connection on the lead are 12 V power (with Ignition on), fuel pump +, and coils +. If I hot wire to fuel pump I get pumping. If I got wire to coils I get 12V to the back of the coils, (but still NO SPARK).

    Does any one know what this is and if I buy a new one $75.00, will it fix my spark issue?

    Thank you all in advance, any help would be appreciated.
     

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  2. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    Where are the pictures buddy? it sounds like you have spent a lot of time tracking this prob down. I'm confused as to whether the 12 V makes it through the common part you mention.
     


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  3. Buddy

    Buddy New Member

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    Sorry the pictures are there now. That would be a good test, I can test what 12 V to the center puts out to the pump and coil leads.
    *******Time Laps******
    K.. 0.00 V on the left or right lead with 12 V going to center.
     

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  4. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    Did that model use an ECM? Engine stop relay? Okay, looking at the manual from Honda for the 98 in the troubleshooting section it says if initial and peak voltage are normal but doesnt spark it's faulty spark plug (no because you checked) or leaking ignition coil secondary current ampere (I have no idea what that means, but maybe you do) or faulty ignition coil. Let me know if any of this helps you or if there is something else that might be in the manual. Just out of curiosity, is it possible that your kill switch is shorted? I had that happen before. That would be a simple fix if it was. Good luck.
     


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  5. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    Ya know, I was gonna say it sounds like the kill switch is shorted. If you can figure out how to bypass it with jumpers so you don't have to cut any wires then you could possibly eliminate that as the problem or determine that it is the cause.
     


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  6. Buddy

    Buddy New Member

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    That was it!

    The engine RUN/STOP switch was not making contact. I cleaned the contacts and got spark,, and.... IT STARTED!!!!! Woot!

    Thanks for the push in the right direction.

    Now I have a carb leaking gas out the bottom nipple with the screw all the way tight. Stuck float or something (carb Illiterate)? I will post this as a new question.

    Thank you again.
    :biggrin:
     


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  7. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    Buddy,

    Glad we could lead you in the right direction. :biggrin:

    As for you carb leaking fuel (since you haven't posted the question in another thread yet and you mentioned it here), it could be a stuck needle and seat. If that's the case, be sure to check the oil as well to make sure no fuel has leaked into the crankcase and contaminated the oil. If it has, bu sure to change the oil as I am sure you are aware that like water, gas and oil don't mix well. :wink:
     


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  8. Buddy

    Buddy New Member

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    Carb

    I pulled the bowl off and cleand it all up, I think it was the bowl caskit/screews not being tight enough. No more leaking.

    How would gas get into the crank case if the float/needle was stuck? Should I drain all the new oil I just put in just in case?
     


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  9. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    Oil would run down the cylinders and into the crank case is my guess. At least it does on my 86 Radian when the needle and seat stick. If you can smell gas in the oil, then I would recommend changing it. In fact, since it has been sitting for so long, I would change the oil anyway.
     


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  10. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    yeah it's always worth changing the oil on any vehicle if you'rre unsure about it. although I must say, I was changing it on my ford p/u the other day cause I just bought it, and I was ready to kill whomever decided they needed to torque down the oil filter. i'm betting it was one of those 'jiffy lube' type places. the filter wrench would slip, then after hammering a screwdriver through it, it shredded, then I had to pull out the guts, tried hammering it loose from the inside, and finally a friend loaned me a strnge looking set of pliers with gnarly teeth and I gripped it at the base and nearly caused myself a hernia getting it loose! sorry bout the off-topic, but this is my only BBS so I'm venting. :)
     


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