Starter Valve Syncronization

Specifically... who has done it? and did it help with low rpm throttle smoothness?

 

guess I will be the first.

 

I just did this last week. I had 6000 miles on the bike. the 3rd cylender was way off. she now runs like a champ.

 

I did it to mine when I added a turbo city fuel pressure regulator. They where a little out. After I did the synch the bike ran and Idled smoother . BTW if you have ever synched carbs before it is just as easy.

 

I took photos. here is the hook up. and before and after on my CARBTEC.

 

Because the 3rd was off for so long it made that plug run cooler and made it idle funny. replaced the plugs and the butt dyno can feel the difference

 

I did it last week and after many problems this 2003 bike is now fully controllable and steady also on low rpms.

When i started the sync with home made oil tube manometer, the readings were way off. Also the adjustments were not stable. After blipping the throttele any adjustment had changed and usually motor was stalling.

I had to change the idle adjustment cable after adjusting it too far in. It did not turn back anymore but was broken.

I took the throttle body assembly out and noticed that those rubber throat bands were pretty loose.

After installation and following repair manual instructions for tightening those bands they stayed pretty loose.

New sync process and it stayed the same, no accurate responce! With starting aid gas i got the proof that those rubber throats are leaking. I tightened all 8 bands to light response and thats it.

Now SV sync is easy and repeatable. Also idle rpm is fully stable. Best part of result is fully steady and controllable ride at low rpms and good torque.

This is my first post.
Best regards to all from Finland.

 

Thanks for reply's. I have a feeling mine are out. I need to find the sync tool now. :thumb:

JRH_V50 welcome to the VFRWorld.

 

The pictures show a lot, thanks!. Have you noticed a better low RPM response?

 

Low Rpms are very smooth. The carbtec i used goes for around 100 bucks. the honda shop will charge 175 if you bring it in. 100 bucks and you can do it twice a year every year. it pays for itself the first time you use it. you can also do your buddys bikes for a case of beer!!! thats what I do. Also I used the service manual to get a blueprint for this fix. have it handy for the first time. I think its page 5-75 under FI

 

Thanks for the info man. I'm not letting a shop touch this thing if I can help it. Money well spent IMO.

 

oh and for what it's worth, Honda's pre VTEC SV settings were:

From Cylinder number 4 (mmHG)
No. 3 Cylinder -10
No. 2 Cylinder +10
No. 1 Cylinder +10

I know some have had better success with this set up rather than flat.

I'm going to go flat, if it isn't satisfactory I will try the pre VTEC setup.

 

Flat seems to work for me.

Especially if you are trying the old model figures notice that there is a connection between cylinders 3 and 4 by a hose to fuel pressure valve. I also blocked this link to cylinder 3 and only 4 was connected to the pressure valve.