Battery or what?

Battery trouble or what?
Was out on my second trip this season and when I was cruising slightly downhill it went dead on me. NO ignition, no lights, no nothing. Pulled in to the nearest gas station (fortunately nearby) :biggrin:and let it rest on the sidestand for a while. The neutral light indicator and sidestandindicator and ignition light came back, but it wouldnt turn around the startermotor. I was able do jumpstart it in third gear and drove it home (without frontlights on). Back on "the ranch" (in the garage) I tried turning the headlights on while at idle speed and Poff - dead again. Pulled out battery and tested it (not at all fully charged but not totally dead).
I was supprised at the "sudden death" and thinking maybe there is another electrical problem here (R/r, dynamo, other).
I have a -93 (third generation) VFR with 60.000km on it.
Anyone had similar experience??? Any suggestions?
I`m planning on changing the battery (at least charging it), what would be the next step??
We are having som good weather at last and its å pity not to ride.:frown:

 

I'm not a 3rd gen expert, but if the bike dies while running it is not the battery.

 

OK! Any suggestions??? The Regulator/rectifier is a known source of trouble. I suppose this unit could cause this kind of trouble. I remember last time I drove it it stopped when I used the rearbrake (on idle speed in the garage), didnt pay much attention to it at the time but now I wonder??

 

What you appear to have is the dreaded regulator/rectfier issue which is a known issue on the VFR. Charge your battery completely. It should show about 12.8 volts. If you took it out, install the battery and then start your bike. Check the voltage at idle, it sould be between 12.8 and 13.5. Then, with the voltmeter still connected, rev teh engine to 5000 rpm. The voltage should go up to 14.5 - 15.5 volts. If it goes up and then drops again before reaching 5K rpm, replace the R/R and maybe the Stator, too, as I would bet that the bad R/R fried the stator, too (which hapened on mine). You might be lucky and only have to replace the R/R, and you can try that before changing the stator. Also, check the wiring harness where the R/R plugs into the stator (3 yellow wires. This will be near the clutch case behind the right-side mid cowling) to make sure they are not burnt and crispy. If they are, you will ned to fix that as well before replaceing the R/R as this will only make the charging system work harder.

 

Thanks Knight! I suppose the stator and the "alternator" are the same thing?" I`m sitting here with the wiring diagram! And just as I was about to check the valve openings:biggrin:
Thanks again.

 

Check the plug connector from the ingniton key switch also.
Check where wires meet the starter solenoid because sometimes that area melts/ burns

 

Whiteknight has it down pat. was what I was going to say, good job, ain't this place great?

 

Vman, er White Knight said with experience what I was thinking... When the bike is running and something makes the four stroke cycle stop, it is usually very bad. If you don't have the experience with using a Voltmeter, find a friend who does, there are a bunch of things that could have gotten hosed... per comments above... and if you fix one but not the others, you'll just end up refrying the stuff again... Look at the R/R threads and you'll see the angst. ;-)

 

Thanks guys! Its a hot bike I looked at the reg/rec unit and nothing was burned or fried there, but there is a crack in the rubber (halfmoonshaped), could that cause any trouble (must have been there a long time) ? Going over the electrical system seems like quite a job, but suppose a must start with an ampmeter here. Sure hope it isnt the stator, is that likely?? Much abliged`///

 

Its the RR autoeb.

Make sure you test your stator too! And you probably need a new battery. Install the new battery with the new RR.

BZ

 

I had a similar problem on my '83. It turned out to be the plug going to the R/R was fried inside. Replaced the plug, has been just fine ever since.

 

I had a battery go South on my 1100F that was intermittently shorting a cell. It was acting very similar to your original description. Replacing it took care of everything. I did check the charging system when I got to my destination (my pal had a voltmeter), just to make sure that it was an age related battery problem.

 

OK! Thanks for good advice. I have ordered a new r/r from a used mc dealer and are planning on buying a new battery (the old one is a mf battery and I`m not sure its a good idea to keep charging it). Cant find any burnt wires. But I`ll keep searching. Also checking the stator.
PS! In Norway we have only so many driving days (in spite of climate changes) so hope to have her on the road again soon!!:biggrin:

 

Hey!
I have bought myself a multimeter and the results are: Battery before starting 13.04 V, on idle 12,8 no change at higher rpms. Leak test (on battery ground) < 1,2 mA, ohms at connector R/r and stator normal. The R/r has abnormal values (tested separately). So far the R/r seems at fault but the stator may be gone too. The battery has simply been drained, so you cant go without the starter battery, but you can go without the stator-r/r connector inserted which I found out by "accident".
Next question; If I replace the R/r and put in a new battery and the stator is bad, any chance I have to go to the dealer once moore? Or will I "just" drain the battery?? "Becoming an electician I am"! (Yoda):lever: Just sharing boys, just sharing!
junior member I am! Anyone care to comment?:third:

 

You can order a stator from Rick's Motorsports Electrics. I got both my R/R and Stator there. There may be better stator manufacturer's out there tho. I had not probelm with the operation of the one from Rick's, just thought the rubber grommet on it wasn't quite in the right spot. Also, if the Stator is bad, you take a chance on frying the R/R again.

 

OK! Ricks motorsports electrics. I am in Norway ! Are they shipping overseas? Think I`ll try to find something a bit closer to home :smile: . Looked at the manual for testing the stator and it looked kind of complicated. Is there an easy way to test it without frying the RR? Ohms seemed ok at the connection. Is that an indication?
If I understand correctly while driving the stator sends current to the RR which regulates and distributes it to the battery and other electrical comp. If the RR is not functioning the stator can be fried beause? Buildup of heat and current??? If I have a look at the stator what should I look for??
Hate to do the operation twice :frown:
Thanks for good advice so far white knight! Good to have someone with experience answering the calls!!:usa2:

 

hi, CHECK THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE (-) : IS IT WELL FIXED TO THE FRAME ? ONCE, THIS CABLE (A BLACK ONE) HAD A FALSE CONTACT ON MY VFR : AS A RESULT : NO LIGHTS, NO IGNITION...BUT IT IS POSSIBLE THAT MOVING THE BIKE THERE IS A LITTLE CONTACT AND FOR A WHILE YOU ARE ABLE TO HAVE A LITTLE IGNITION OR TO ACTIVATE SOME ELECTRICAL SERVICES...CHECK IT (IT IS ALWAYS A GOOD THING TO DO)...
LAMPS, CARMINE.

 

Thanks! I`ll do that. The leak-test was ok though! Think I have to change the stator. No response there ?!:smash:
autoeb (spells like an autodealer but is short for my name):smile:

 

Dear autoeb, as I said : check the cables of your battery : + and - (the ground has to be firmly secured). wHEN THE BATTERY IS CORRECTLY MOUNTED, turn the ignition key and the dashboard lights : oil lamp, fuel lamps....
then, if the charge is enough, the engine will turn , but if the charge is not enough you will not able to do that. I want to say : this is a basic proof to see if the battery cables are ok. A battery even with low energy arrives to light the neutral indicators and so on.
Let us know.
carmine.

 

Stators are relatively easy to test. Unplug the three pin stator connector...yellow wires. You will be probing the engine harness side. Check all three pins for contintuity to the others (or very low resistance...around .6 ohms usually), that is, a series of six tests. If it passes, pick any pin and check for connection to ground...if any one of these three wires have a ground connection of any sort, your stator has probably failed...this is usually the test that spots a bad stator. If these tests are passed and you want to be very thorough...start your bike, leaving the stator coupler unplugged, turn your meter to ACV and probe one yellow wire to the other, a series of three tests (one for each phase). Rev your bike to 5000 RPM briefly and note results. You'll see each phase go from a low ACV, like around 15 ACV to a high ACV, like around 50 ACV or more. If you see a big difference from one phase to another, or extremely low ACV readings, your stator is in question. It's not unusual to see heat damage on the three pin stator coupler. It's not a good sign but it doesn't necessarily mean the stator has failed. However if the heat damage is extreme, the coupler should be replaced or the connections hardwired.