86 vfr 700f problems

Hi,

I just bought an 86 vfr700f and have a couple questions for you.

1st: When i bought the bike i was told that it needed to have the carbs rebuilt/cleaned. I am still assuming this will fix my problem. The bike only starts when cold or warm with a full choke. After letting the bike warm up still can not release the choke without the bike stalling out. While choked and running can rev the bike a bit but if throttle is released to quickly the bike will stall. With either the choke or the throttle being increased there is a delay in time from choking or reving before the gas actually gets to the engine.(i assume this becuase it takes a second or so for the bike to rev up) 2nd part of this question; With the choke in and not reving the engine if i take the sit on bike and pull it vertical(off the kickstand) the engine slows and/or dies. I dont know if this has to do with the carbs being plugged or something else. Any input would be much appreciated.



2nd: Clutch Problem. With the clutch pulled in, if i shift to first the bike still lurches forward. Since I have never had a bike with a hydralic clutch before i dont know if there is simply something not connected or if this could be a faulty clutch.

Again thanks for any input on this.

opie

 

Back in the 80s some guys did weird stuff with carbs. (not that some guys don't do the same today) Anyway, when I bought my '86 back in '96 I found out that the guy before me had replaced the main jets and the pilot jets with a set meant strictly for W.O.T. conditions. Sooo, the 1st thing I did was go back to the stock jetting.
Clean 'em, jet 'em you should be back in business.

Clutch: Mine did the same. Replaced the clutch still did it, just not as bad.

 

You may have some air in your line. If the bike is "cold", it will lurch a little bit. They pretty much all do that. Once warm, it should be greatly reduced or even gone.

If the bike creeps forward with the clutch pulled in, then you definitely have air/water/old fluid in the lines.

 

RE: Clutch

I tore into my slave cylinder this weekend, to get to the front sprocket. Clutch fluid was disgusting. Rust orange. Massive quantity of water absorbed into it over the years.

I'd recommend flushing and bleeding it like the brakes, and see what you get. Certainly flush out all the old fluid, and then again the same amount to help flush as much contaminant as you can from the lines. My fluid was orange from the slave cylinder (which was where it was rusting) to the sight glass in the master's reservoir.

Gotta love old bikes that have been stored more than ridden...

 

I've never, EVER. EVER. ridden a bike that didn't clunk, jump, lurch, or somehow react to being shifted into first. Clean your tank, check the fuel lines, clean and rebuild and synch the carbs, all should be well.

 

Thanks for the input, Sorry it took a while to get back, long weekend.
It will be nice if i dont need to replace anything with the clutch.


The first poster said something about W.O.T. conditions, sorry for being a noob or what not, what does that mean?


thanks

 

W.O.T. = Wide Open Throttle ( also know as "WFO" )

Basically the jets were used for optimum combustion at very high rpms ie. racetrack use. Your low and midrange rpm HP and Torque will suffer as a result.

 

Wide
Open
Throttle