No clutch pressure after sprocket replacement

So, I replaced the sprockets and chain on my VFR today, and I had to bleed the hydraulic clutch fluid to do it. Now that I have the whole thing back together, I can't get any pressure through the clutch line. I have a piece of clear tubing on the little valve, pump the clutch a couple of times, release the bolt 1/4 turn, fluid comes out, but I never get any pressure built up. Is there some trick to this I don't know about? The book suggests a bleeder tool to help pump, but I didn't think you needed that. Any suggestions? I don't think it is a gasket issue because i'm not seeing any leakage.

 

Depending on how much fluid you drained initially, it could take a very long time to do it without a Mityvac type tool. You don't move a lot of fluid when you pull in the lever. If you don't want to buy a bleeder pump, you're gonna be pulling on the lever quite a while.

 

Yeah, I was going to go to CycleGear today and buy one of those. I just couldn't move enough fluid with the handle to clear the system, it seemed.

Thanks for the advice,

Mel

PS - So you're up in Santa Rosa (i'm in SF)? We come through there all the time when we're doing our favorite loop: 101 to 128, and back down on 1. I'll let you know next time we're coming up there and maybe we can meet up.

 

Did you remove the banjo fitting from the slave cylinder? If so, you probably have some air trapped in that fitting. Squeeze the clutch lever and loosen the banjo bolt a little (just like doing the slave or calipers) and you should get some air out. After you stop getting air go back to the bleeder and do a little more.

 

Excuse my ignorance, but I'm not exactly sure which one the banjo bolt is? I took out three bolts on the front of the slave cylinder, 2 long ones and one shorter one. Is one of those the banjo bolt?

 

Check that, I see which bolt you're talking about.

Thanks,
Mel

 

Nope, it sounds like you just removed the slave and not the hose, which is good. The banjo bolts are what hold the hydraulic hoses to the calipers, master and slave cylinders. So, when you said that you had to bleed the clutch, was it just to flush the fluid? It may be that you got some air in the line. The clutch master cylinder doesn't move much fluid, so it can take a while. And if you don't close the bleeder before you release the clutch lever you'll never get the air out. You should be sqeezeing the clutch lever, crack the bleeder open, and BEFORE the lever touches the grip tighten the bleeder. Pump the lever a couple of times and hold on the last stroke, crack the bleeder and tighten it. Do this until you have pressure. Using a vacuum bleeder can help, just make sure to use teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder screws, or you'll suck air from there instead of from the slave.

 

I've found that removing slave cyl from sprocket cover and using a c-clamp to fully retract and hold piston aids in bleeding.....

 

I ended up having to take the slave cylinder off and bleeding from there (as per your suggestion). What I realized in doing so was that I never had to drain the damn hydraulic fluid to begin with. When my buddy and I were changing the sprockets, we were reading through the manual and it said to drain the clutch line, first. Well, that's what we did, and when I sat down and thought about it, I realized it was completely unecessary. Too bad I didn't think it through originally. Oh well, at least I have a good working knowledge of the hydraulic system now!

Thanks for all your help, the new gold chain looks awesome and was definitely worth all the trouble.

Mel

 

It's probably because, in the manuals eyes, it's easier to remove one banjo bolt than the 3 that hold the slave to the case.A lot of manuals have you do things that never quite make sense.

 

Needless to say, I'll never drain the whole hydraulic system to change the front sprocket again. Of course, this new RK chain is good for 20k, so it'll be awhile anyhow. I will approach future maintenance with a more thoughtful eye, this whole chain/sprocket replacement should have taken 2-4 hours rather than 2-4 days.

 

It's ok. The other 72 some odd hours were spent learning about your bike.

 

Yes, and it also made that first ride after getting it all back together REALLY rewarding. I was worried that I would have to tow my bike down to the shop to get it working again. I am sooo glad it didn't come to that.

 

I'm betting your next project goes a lot smoother.