Headlight rewire

As many of you know, the 6th gen VFR's use an H-4 bulb on the bottom for low beam and an H-7 bulb on top for high beam. However, the lower h-4 bulbs are wired such that only the low beam circuit comes on (there are only two wires going to the low beam socket). When you switch to high beam, all that really happens is the upper H-7's come on in addition to the lower H-4's on low beam.

A few years ago I saw a post where you could rewire the lower bulbs so that the high beam circuit on the H-4's would come on and the low beam circuit would switch off when you went to high beam. Does anyone know how to do this or know where to find the thread? Apparently it was one of the threads at vfrdissicusion.com that got wiped out in the big hard disk crash they suffered.

I'd give anything to see the details of how it is done again. The only thing I remember is that it involved some BMW automotive relays. The thread gave the BMW part numbers and everything.

Bueller? Bueller?

 

ASSUMING:
- An H-4 is dual-filament (i don't know this off the top of my head) AND
- Honda's H-4 plug only has low-beam wired into the plug

BUY:
(1x) High-amperage SPDT automotive relay (12v, 20 or 30a can be purchased at any auto supply store)
(2x) H-4 bulb plug w/ ground and 2 power leads (one for low and one for high)
2 lengths to reach between relay and headlights (then a short split for left and right)
1 Ground wire
Possibly a couple extensions to/from Honda harness

A single pole double throw has the following connections:
--Switched input
--Ground for switched input
--Main input (will be used for device you want to power)
--2 outputs: Leg A and Leg B

If Switch=0v, then Leg A=+12V and Leg B = 0v
If Switch=+12v then Leg A=0v and Leg B=+12v.

STEPS:
1) Tie relay's Switch input into bike's High-Beam + lead (don't cut high-beam wire, just tap into it)
2) Add a new wire from relay's Switch ground leg to bike ground
3) Cut low beam +12v lead at common point before the split to left and right bulbs. Take the bike-side of the low beam signal and plug this into the Main Input of the relay.
4) Wire relay's Leg A to low-beam input of the new H-4 plug
5) Wire relay's Leg B to high-beam input of new H-4 plug
6) Wire both of the new H-4 plugs to Ground

RESULT:
H-7 high beam off: H-4 low beam on
H-7 high beam on: H-4 high beam on

This was a quick reply - think I have everything correct. This is the simplest way to do it...there are other ways as well. I would suggest using new grounds for the H-4 (don't use existing grounds). It may be worthwhile to supply all new +12v and ground for both H-4 and H-7 bulbs; in this case, you would need at least STSP relay and use existing factory light wiring to trigger (activate) new +12v source for the headlights.

A picture would be worth 1000 words...if you want (and I have a few mins) I can try drawing something up.

 

Keeena:

You are correct on your assumptions about an H-4 bulb.

YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks a gazillion times for this info. I can handle it from here.

Thanks again.

RDR

 

NP, good luck. I would really consider my last note about upgrading grounds and maybe even +12v power. Manufacturers tend to use absolute minimum wire gauge. DEFINITELY do it if you are going to use higher wattage bulbs.

[edit] The bike probably uses relays for the factory headlights. You could always use the bike's lower amperage switch circuits for triggers instead of directly from the hi-amp which goes to the bulbs...even replace & rewire those factory relays w/ the new STDP relay (this would allow you to avoid having to buy new STSP relays for new +12v...just use existing ones and upgrade the wire gauge).

 

Keeena:

That is pretty well my plan.

Again, thanks a million.

RDR

 

A better thing to do, since the low light reflectors probably aren't designed with reflectors to take advantage of the high beam portion of the H4, is to swap the H4's out for HID's!!!

http://www.xenonrider.com/products/h4_xenon_hid_kits.shtml



I'm sure you can save a few bucks elseware, but I've installed 6 of this guys kits and they're all rock-solid.

After that, get some H7 PIAA Plasma Ions for your high beams. Quite possibly the best combo of lights for night vision ever. (I've personally tested that comb in four different timezones across the USA)

 

SLOav8:

I went to that website and read through it and want to make sure I understand what they're saying. I'm asking these questions because I own an ST1300 in addition to my VFR.

If I understand what Xenonrider says, you basically don't need high beams any more since the HID's are so powerful - is that correct? The ST1300 uses two H-4 bulbs, but switches between the low beam filament and the high beam filament when you swith from low beam to high beam. I get the impression if you install the HID's you just leave them on low beam (obviously) all the time.

If that is the case, I could see where they would be perfect for the VFR in conjunction with a standard halogen bulb on the high beams.

You seem pretty impressed with them. These things aren't made in China are they? Did you pay extra and get the mini-ballast units?

What kind of bike(s) have you installed them on?

What is the difference that you see riding at night?

As you can see, I am very interested.

 

Glad you're interested! I'll do my best to answer up.

He's not quite the bike expert. (And although his site seems jinky, he's a trustworthy seller.) I don't recommend giving up high beams. H4's (and other dual beam lights) rely on reflector design to change the pattern. The hi/lo function just changes the exact point of the light source inside the housing. So depending on the design of the reflector, you could either get great coverage or just blinding crap. Either way, no bueno for bikers cuz lighting is critical at night.

For the 6th gen VFR, the standard HID is just fine. For my 5th gen, I waited until he had a hi/lo HID. The early hi/lo HID's were nothing but an HID with a stupid halogen bulb tacked on to act as the high beam. His hi/lo kit is the standard HID with a sleeve (electro magnetic control, no motor servers) over it that shifts the focus of the HID when you switch from hi to lo beam.

I've had them on my 5th gen since last summer and I'm very happy with the night improvement. OEM lights were crap, silverstars helped a bit, HID is way better then both. I'm sure they'll be a big improvement for the ST as well. I do leave the HI's on during the day, they seem to be more visible then the lows (and don't draw any more/less power).

Yep, they work great together. However you'll vomit when you see how dingy the standard high beam looks compared to the HID's. Switching to yellows (PIAA Plasma Ions rule!) for the high beams look and work great.

*HID's for high beams are kind of waste since they can take about 10 seconds to hit full brightness when you kick them on. Stick with halogens.

Oh they're extremely made in China I believe. I just checked a box and couldn't find where it said they're from. The only ballasts I can get to without taking plastics off are in my roommate's car and it's pouring rain. I do believe the bulbs themselves are standard Phillips HID's.

The mini-ballast units weren't available when I put my stuff in. The 5th gen fit them OK next to the radiators, and should in the 6th. For the hi/lo kit in my VFR, I probably would have opted for the slims though. However there hasn't been an ounce of trouble with the regulars.


I use a little bit of gorrila glue on heavy duty velcro to attach the ballasts to the frame/plastics depending on the bike.

I have installed on: CBR1100XX, 5th Gen VFR, BMW K1200S, CBR 600RR, and a Honda Civic. Recommended the system to a few other bikers with no complaints from them after. Now that the slim ballasts are out, I'm going to see if I can shoe-horn one into my boss's RC51. I'm waiting for a hi/lo kit for my Subaru still.

Huge improvement. I didn't actually like riding the VFR at night before. On the other bikes, I put the HID/PIAA combo and it's amazing. On my cross country trip, we traveled until after sunset every night one night til 2am... No probs.
The intensity of the light doesn't really fade out. It just goes out and cuts off. I use the 6000k bulbs, it's a great color temperature. It also cuts through rain like you wouldn't believe. Tested this summer during some northeast thunderstorms.

They work so well, I have a hard time driving at night without them now.

 

The same point applies to HIDs...focus will most likely not be optimal if putting HID bulbs into a housing designed for a standard type of bulb. And unless your headlight housing has a beam cutoff shield built-in around the low-beam bulb, you will absolutely blind oncoming traffic (you may *still* blind traffic even if you have a shield...depending on how bulb sits in housing). Standard filament low beam bulbs usually have a beam cutoff shield w/in the bulb; i'm pretty sure HIDs do NOT have a beam cutoff. The only type of HID shield I've heard of is built into the housing, not the bulb.

HIDs are not suggested for high beams (assuming bulb off/on type, not the bulb shield "enabled/disabled"). The reason is because you don't want to flip power to HID on/off (like when you flash your high beam or turn it off/on as needed when cars approaches in the other lane). Some folks suggest wiring your HID low beam to a manual on/off switch, switching them on only AFTER the bike has started (avoiding flashing which commonly occurs on m'cycles on start-up).

[edit - I deleted a bunch of stuff...just read the link]
Heres an excellent site w/ info about HID v. Filament bulbs and retrofitting issues: Linky

 

Thanks a ton guys. You two have been more than helpful.

 

Keeena:

Read through Daniel Stern's article. Now I'm more confused than ever.

What do you run in your 6th Gen VFR? You seem pretty knowledgeable about lighting.

I'm beginning to now wonder if I'm just stuck with the crappy lighting on both the VFR and the ST. I owned a 2001 Goldwing for a while and it had an incredible lighting system from the factory. I don't know why Honda puts less effective lighting systems on bikes that are higher performance than the Goldwing. It is so easy to "out ride" the stock lights on both the VFR and the ST.

RDR

 

All the low beam HID conversions I've done have have had zero pattern issues. I was pretty concerned about that too. You can see a VERY defined pattern edge on the pavement.

With the HI/LO H4 I did on my 5th gen, a shield does move to refocus and block out stray light. The reflector was designed for the hi/lo and the pattern appears to be normal for both.

I haven't put any delay relays on the bikes. One of the HID's has been in for nearly 2 years with no problems with the ballast or bulb. I have been thinking of putting an on-off toggle tucked away for extended traffic situations. 6 hours of stop & go required me removing a fuse to save the battery.

 

I run stock lighting; I find it to be pretty good on the VFR. Maybe my sight is good? Or maybe I'm just a slow rider... :tongue: I'm no expert, just have asked the same questions you have and sharing the info I've found. And I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night...

My main point was just to get some info across that HIDs may not be ideal as a retrofit. I'm not against trying HIDs...I'd be willing to try HIDs if I wanted/needed to improve the lighting and was running out of other options. Just good to know the potential problems, like anything else. I don't doubt that you can have success w/ them (as SLOav8r has). I think some success may be attributed to the fact that HIDs are so damn bright that they override "focus" issues in retro-fit applications.

Lots of folks who go HID tend to do so because of "blue" look which is artificially exaggerated and marketed w/ the retro-fit manufacturers. HIDs only really generate 1 color output, which is a very bright white color w/ a slight blue hint compared to regular bulbs (I want to say HID is 6000k). High-end cars *look* blue because of the housing and how it creates the sharp light cutoff (projector housings create this effect even more...pull a BMW up to a white wall to see for yourself). Companies selling 8000K, 10000K, 12000K...thats all garbage, just coloring the glass. Fine i guess if you want purple headlights.

I actually do NOT like HIDs in the rain vs. traditional bulbs from a color output standpoint. The best light for that is a cooler color...more of a yellowish light. I have yellow-tinted bulbs in my truck's high-beams...awesome in the rain. Its something I want to try in the VFR eventually. But again, perhaps the brightness of HID overcomes the negatives of the higher color temp to some degree.

Aux lighting is another option...I've seen fairly subtle lights which can be attached to the forks of modern bikes (like little fog lights). I have no idea how well they work tho.

Just more info to chew on. If you wanted my opinion, your original "low/high" option would be cheap to try. If you don't like it, give the HID a whirl.

 

Hey Guys,

I'll be installing HID's on my Gen 6 over the next couple of weeks. I have the digital micro ballasts that I got off of fleabay for $140 CND to my door. Very nice construction and completely waterproof.

The bulbs are H4 low beam only without cut off sheilds. The bulb has the same base as the H4 hi/low with a provision for a cutoff so I'm simply going to construct some from some stainless I have laying in the bin.

I'll post back with whether or not it all works.

Wesley J

 

I guess my biggest complaint is that I currently own a VFR800 in addition to the ST1300. Prior to the ST (the '04 is my second one) I had an '01 Goldwing. From the factory it's lights were so superior to anything I had ever ridden before (or since) it was unbelieveable. I guess it irks me that Honda can't put as good a lighting system on the two sport touring bikes they make that are of a "higher performance" capability than the 'Wing.