I did it !!

Well after having to go to the DMV yesterday, miserable experience, I picked up my choke cable from the dealer today, I just got in from my freezing azz garage, Im happy to say I did it, my choke is operational and for the throttle, A BIG Thanks to squirrelman,my throttle snaps back like a set mouse trap that just got sprung. may yet need some fine tuning after I get a chance to get er out and open er up , having come closer to that day the next thing on my list is the new pads on the front tire. Id feel comfy taking her out the, she does have f/r new bridgestone Battle ax sneakers on her. I think there is something else that you need to understand, Its been 1yr 3 mo. since I had my seca2 I had to sell. So getting this bike road worthy again really means a lot to me. My passion for motorcyling is sometimes forshadowed by my obligation to my family, I have 2 young children and am still married after 12 yrs, and have a bike again, not just any bike, a VFR , the first and best sport tourer I have ever owned. Peace out!!:rockon:

 

what did you do to fix your throttle? lube? adjust? mine has issues snapping back too

and congrats!


btw, choke cable is an easy fix! I did that one about a month ago

 

Yes choke is easy fix,accomplished nonetheless in 25 degee garage. BRRRR.
wll to answer koorbloh I took the screws out of the throtle housing and separated it, took the return cable off at handlebars and then off at the carbs. so then I loosened the adjusting nut for the pull cable at the carbs about a full turn, reinstalled cables at carbs and handlebars then shot some wd down the cables at the handlebars. Reconnected the housing with the cable outlets from the housing facing straight down. Put the airbox back on, Tank and fairings and seat, which I removed to do the choke cable. And fired er up! Throttle rolled right off.

BTW My first VFR was an 87 750 F2 oh... 15-16 years ago

 

groovy! thanks for the info!




...now if I could just get it to start...

 

Before riding, why not??

Before replacing BRAKE pads, unless yours are worn below minimum thickness, give your BRAKES a "Tune-up" :

Remove each caliper and liberally spray pads with brake cleaner to remove dust/oil buildup. Spray rotors also... but don't EVER let brake cleaner spray get on your tyres!!!!!

The truly industrious can remove pads and lighty sand on medium-corse paper to remove surface glaze.

Then follow up with a quick, one-squeeze bleed on each caliper, and your brakes are now a little sharper and stronger.

 

That may come of use to me someday but the pads were worn down badly by the last owner. I would never have ridden it more than down my alley with the way they are now. hopefully I do not need new rotors. There are no deep scores in them, but the pads are down to metal. Anyone have any advice/suggestions bout this, short of costing me mega bucks.

 

if your rotors have been scored to the point where the surface is noticably uneven, then you may never have original braking force again unless rotors are replaced.
Try used or aftermarket, not cheap: Factory is more than you paid for the bike!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

There is a uniformity to the rotors where the pads make contact and beyond, but there is a small lip along the outer edge of the rotor, prob 2-3 mm. Is that normal?

 

The lip is normal and an actual indicator of over-alll wear from NEW.

Factory specifies minimum thickness of 3.5MM for front rotors. If less, u need to replace.

U need a micrometer to check.

 

I've used wd40 to lube throttle cables and I wouldn't recommend it. Mine ended up sticking again later. wd40 isn't really a lubricant, its designed to protect from corrosion and clean, it will actually flush the lube from the cable. I recommend a lube with teflon, personally I've had alot of luck with a can of penetrating lube with teflon called ZEP.

 

Actually the best thing for lubing the cable is graphite (powder) slicker than snot if you get some on the floor and step in it.

WD40 is good for cleaning the gunk out that is dragging your cable.
Graphite is best once free to move. Should be available at any automotive supply.

 

one time I heard about graphite suspended in and alcohol based liquid that was supposed to be good for lubing cables....

basically, you shoot it down the cable, and it carries the graphite with it, then it evaporates, leaving the graphite....

 

Thanks, Ill try this graphite powder you speak of, at least I do know that there is nothing else wrong with the throttle though.