Clearcoat Refresh

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by RllwJoe, Apr 6, 2026.

  1. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    The '98 5th gen has passed the 50k mile mark, and has developed some scratches in the clearcoat.

    My two main concerns are:

    1) the tank, primarily because of scratches but I also want to install the TechSpec grips that I purchased a couple of years back following my first track day experience without being able to grip the tank well enough with my legs (I kept sliding into the tank and having to push myself back). It will be easier to paint before installing them.

    2) the left side cowl which was purchased new from Honda following my near miss with a deer three years ago.

    I also wanted to add clearcoat to my pillion cover.

    I've painted all of the other plastics following the close call with the deer, and in the process found that the factory clearcoat is extremely thin. I was also successful in protecting the stickers, that were otherwise unprotected, with clear, and want to follow suit with these three items.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2026


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  2. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    First, I have a question regarding the fuel supply line under the tank.
    For those of you who have removed the tank, have you replaced the sealing washers with new as the service manual suggests?
    I'm tempted to reinstall the used washers.

    What is your experience?
     


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  3. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    Here's a photo of my three subjects prior to paint prep of the tank.
    I've already sanded the other two with 2,000 grit
    20260323_102037.jpg
     


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  4. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    Some post 2000 grit sanding photos

    The tank had a heavier factory clear (no burnthrough).
    20260323_131726.jpg

    The Left fairing, however, was a challenge to not go too far. The clear from the factory is so very thin that you must check your work very often! I was wet sanding with 2000 and using a clean paper towel to wipe the surface dry. Doing so, you know immediately if you have gone through the clear when the white paper towel has a bit of red in the liquid that is wiped off.

    As noted in a previous post, I wanted to bury the sticker on the fairing with clearcoat. To do so it is necessary to give the clear some "tooth" to grab onto when it is appled to the surface. So, sanding the sticker is required. If you look closely at the bottom tip of the "F" and at the leading edge corners of the "I" in Inercepter" you can see a white spot where they were sanded through. Like I said it is challenging and touchy work!

    20260323_102109.jpg

    And the pillion cover.

    20260323_102054.jpg
     


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  5. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Gonna look great
     


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  6. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    Regading the 14mm aluminum sealing washers for the fuel line connection to the pump, I bought a couple from NAPA for a couple of dollars. They were able to cross reference the Honda part number because the same washer (& part number) is used in some Honda automobiles also.
     


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  7. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    Thanks Captain.
    I was beginning to wonder if anyone had seen this thread yet.
     


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  8. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    I forgot to mention the cleaning process that was done before any sanding began.

    I've had issues with fish eye in the newly painted surface on my first attempt at painting auto paint and 2k clear. And I never want to deal with that ever again!

    So the preperation that I now go through runs this path:
    First I wash the part/ panel/ fairing with Simple Green two or three times. From that point until the clearcoat is cured I wear nitrile type surgical gloves whenever I'm handling the part. Then, I wipe it down with a new paper towel soaked with Prep-All, which will remove oils and waxes. What I do not want, is any of those contaminants ground into the fine groves left by the sanding process. Just before Spraying, whether it is etching primer, or clear I'll wipe it down again with a new paper towel and Prep-All. I don't wipe down the primer before applying base coat because Prep-All will remove the primer from the part (ask me how I know)!
     


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  9. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    And the post clearcoat photos:

    20260324_194320.jpg 20260324_194419.jpg

    My "spray booth is the great outdoors. I was pressed for tme because it was getting late and I was in a race with the setting sun.

    Tempatures were about 35 degrees as I was setting up the three items on seperate pedestals outside the garage. The breeze had almost completely died down.

    I like spraying in the cold for a couple of reasons. the first one being - there are zero bugs to commit suicide in the fresh clear, and secondly it seems to lay out extremely clear (you be the judge).

    I was hoping to spray a couple of light coats and then a heavier final spray, but in the rush it didn't work out as planned.

    The first coat was rather heavy, in fact the first "back-and-forth" spray on the left side of the tank produced a sag and a few runs! It had been a couple of years since I've sprayed clear and those first two passes were too slow. Because the daylight was fading, I didn't notice how heavy the first coat went on untill I brought them into the garage to "flash off". I use a mid-temp aactivator, and being that it was just above freezing out, they needed more than the recomended 3-5 minutes to flash, even tho the temperature in the garage was ten degrees warmer. I used a hair dryer to help speed up the flashing. By the time I set them out for the second coat, the temperature had contuned to drop and I think it was at or just below freezing when the second coat was applied. By that time it was getting too dark for any possible third coat. It didn't matter, both of the coats were a full wet coat, and the clear would be thick enough.

    Am I the only one who is temped to not sand out the imperfections of the clearcoat? It looks so good. And I have a hard time seeing the bits of dust or the small craters in the clear. They were there, and I could see them when I began to sand them a week later.

    Anyway, the photos above are of them curing in my basement, in front of an electric heater on a low setting. I brought them down there from the garage after they flashed off for an hour and a half after the second coat.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2026 at 6:11 PM


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