Someone explain the PAIR mod one more time please

Its the second time that I've done the mod, blocking the pipe with a marble and disconnecting the electrics. The trouble is that is runs like a bag of crap when it's cold. Today someone told me that you're only supposed to disconnect the electrics, not block the pipe.

Which is it please and how is that valve actually working?

 

The PAIR valve introduces filtered air into the exhaust port to reduce unburnt fuel in the exhaust gases. It consist of the PAIR reed valve at the cylinder head, a solenoid valve driven by the ECU, and a hose to link these to the filtered side of the airbox. Whether you disconnect the solenoid is irrelevant, but you do need to seal the port from the airbox (so you don't suck unfiltered air back in to the airbox) and seal the air supply to the reed valve (so you don't add any air into the exhaust). I used blanking plates and removed the reed valve lids and the reeds themselves, but left the rubber gaskets in place to seal to my blanking plates. I disconnected and carefully stored the hoses/solenoid in the bin, and put a rubber cap over the spigot at the airbox.

 

Yeah that what I thought. It runs like shit from cold. I adjusted the idle RPM at normal temp and it still runs like shit from cold. I've just put it back for the second time. I can't figure out why it runs well for some people and not others.

 

Are you getting the normal fast idle when the bike is cold?

 

A bit. It starts as if its on 2 cylinders After it settles it goes to 1000 and then creeps up to 2000. Until it warms up. Then its ok.

 

Is it always like that or just with the PAIR disabled?

 

only with the PAIR disabled.

 

Hi. First post, I think. Mine's an 02.

I've seen plenty of how-to's on the PAIR valve disabling, but I'm curious to know what benefits are supposed to accrue from doing this.

Similarly, when I got mine the flapper valve had been disabled, bike ran roughly at low speed. Runs a whole better with it reconnected, so also curious as to why this mod is favoured.

 

The pair valve allows additional air into the exhaust to burn excess fuel which then creates an AFR sensed by your o2 sensors designed by the Honda engineers. Some claim that the Honda engineers were more concerned about fuel economy and emissions than performance with this setup which may be partly true. I think that folks who do the pair mod believe that removing the additional air into the exhaust somehow stabilizes the reading of the 02 sensors to read actual AFR coming out of the motor which somehow helps to remove the 4k - 5k flat spot. Most of my reading on this forum suggest this mod has little (at best) to no benefit. In my opinion, it’s a circular formula because you’re fighting the Honda programming; 1) adding air burns fuel creating a leaner condition for the 02 sensors to add fuel when necessary (according to Honda programing), 2) removing the air via the pair mod causes excess fuel to not burn which causes the 02 sensors to read a richer condition (compared to stock) and therefore adds less fuel in theory (how can that be good for performance). Trying to trick the Honda programing is futile which is why many have try reprogramming with a power commander which is complicated and introduces other problems.

I’m definitely not smarter than the Honda engineers so I am going to enjoy the bike for what it is. Besides I have learn how the throttle responds and how to work around the flat spot which was engineered into the programing to trim fuel around the 4-5k cruising range. If you hammer the throttle a little harder before it goes into trim mode, you never feel it and the motor takes off like a rocket from low in the RPM range to the top. If you’re cruising at 4-5k in trim mode drop a gear or hammer down harder and it pops out of trim mode and your off.

Hope that helps.

 

I wonder if he's been waiting by his computer for almost exactly 2 years waiting for an answer to finally come.