86 750 carb removal and advice

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by This old VFR, Nov 17, 2024.

  1. This old VFR

    This old VFR New Member

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    1986 VFR750 carb removal Questions and advice.
    Okay I've already discovered two of the broken tees when trying to remove hoses...lol
    So here's where I'm at I can't get the carbs to budge not even barely.
    Disconnected what fuel lines and what I'm assuming are smog equipment?
    Throttle ,choke etc..

    NOW REGARDING THE RUBBER BOOTS, I only loosened the top bolt / clamp on each boot I did not loosen the lower ones.
    I've tried long gentle pressure with a medium pry bar and all it did was Chip the brown paint right off the valve covers.
    THESE CARBS WILL NOT MOVE...
    so far ..lol

    I had a so-called expert in L.A. tell me there is no need to use tie downs or pulleys etc that they will "always " pull off. Now I realize he's not that much of an expert...lol as others have said these won't budge ?????
    Before I damage something I figure I will ask for any tips and advice here.
    SO PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ADVISE ME IT'S APPRECIATED...

    I have two vfrs a 700 & 750 neither one has been started or ran in 6 years with fuel in them too‍ These Carbs gotta come off ....

    Plus the bike is quite dirty. I probably should have power washed this thing but it is quite the ordeal to get a 500+ lb bike off a bike stand out of a patio and I have nothing but dirt for a yard every time I do cleaning it it's a half day project just to set it up so it doesn't get dirtymuddy again. 6018b8b4-c78e-4e01-824e-b5b3f311414e.jpg IMG_20241117_205323.jpg
     


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  2. atx

    atx New Member

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    I personally would use a 1x4 chunk of wood to pry it with, rather damage the wood than rare old carbs. I would also loosen all the boot bolts, for installation there is definitely an order but removal imo just get it loose so you can get the things to move at all. Try a heat gun on the carb boots to soften them up a bit, not too hot of course, and just pry one side of the carbs at a time going front to back, front to back, and it should wiggle out.
     


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  3. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Heat gun on low is your friend. As mentioned, loosen all the clamps. However it wants to come out, let it.

    I use a pry bar, usually between the valve cover and the left rear carb, but always with some kind of interface to avoid damage to either the carbs or valve cover. Don't force it, you don't want to crack the aluminum plenum / air box base, or damage a carb body. If it doesn't want to start to budge, more heat. You're replacing the insulators anyway. Absolutely resist any temptation to remove the plenum prior to extracting the carbs.

    Installation with aforementioned new insulators will not require anything like straps or similar contraptions. A radiator hose removal tool is handy here to get the rear carbs started in the new boots before applying downward pressure. "Pop"
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2024


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  4. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    ^^ 100%
    First thing I do is order Carb Insulators, because I know there is no way the carbs will go back on with the old ones in place. You have the info, now just the patience and they will come out.
    I find it easier to remove the radiator and hoses to do most of my engine work. That way the coolant system gets some love and I have more hand space to work. Then I hand clean everything from there, no hose water. Me OCD
    Just my 2c
     


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  5. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Good advice so far.

    How about squirting some WD40 on the insulators where it will run down & run up inside them a bit. Might help loosen things up. Also...when you are pulling off.....don't rule out grasping the sides of the plenum with both hands........and wiggling back and forth.......back and forth....north and south...east and west.......and keep doing this repeatedly. It may not seem like it but you're probably making some progress on breaking the "seals" on the insulators.

    And what has been said about loosing BOTH clamps on each insulator cannot be stressed enough. Back the screws out as far as possible without them coming off.

    GOOD LUCK!
     


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  6. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    be careful not to use too much force, heat helps, tougher in a cold shop. loosen both clamps. front comes off ez after rears are out.

    post-3647-0-38585400-1334096436.jpg


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    >>>>>> its ez to wash using a spray bottle with dish soap & water.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2024


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  7. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    If you buy one set of insulators, consider getting another and keeping them stashed in a climate controlled location. You never know when you might need another set and they might end up being NLA. If you can find NOS, definitely by 2 sets.
     


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  8. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    I picked up an extra set for the vfr/rvf just in case. For the money, one of the best "extras" to have.
     


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  9. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    How were you able to get them off?
     


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