Restoring a (second) BLUE '87 VFR700F2H

Yes. STIFF solvent brushes and brass wire brushes are awesome.

 

I was saying…


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Interesting - never considered using gasoline as a cleaner but will give it a whirl! Thanks, Capt!

 

Why wouldn't it be great... it causes cancer. Kidding and serious. Use the appropriate precautions and PPE.

 

Thank you - I will!

 

The Sears Allstate Moped Owner's Manuel instructs you to soak a rag in gas and wipe down the painted bodywork for cleaning. Seriously.

 

Wow! Metal body work though - not plastic, right?

 

I bet there is no disclaimer after how to clean with gasoline line


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Also - more good news. I found a touch up pen for the gas tank with the correct Honda blue color. It came with the extra parts with that South Carolina bike.

 

Yes... metal. But the paint that was used back then.. unfazed. Actually gleams.

 

This is why I am an "insider"! I also find that the help and information shared, stored, and searchable on these forums to be worth much more than the small annual fee to keep VFRW up and running.

 

This is my first RC26 carb rebuild. All going OK so far but one of the pilot screw ends came loose. I was able to unscrew the screw using some pliers so no biggie.

I'm sure I have another screw in my spares just like this one. Otherwise I could JB weld the end back on. But in the rebuild kit, there are new screws that are shorter in length so don't stick out so far. Wonder why they didn't just supply ones just like those from the factory?

Or am I wrong about these being pilot screws?

 

Those are the pilot screws. On the stock ones where the cap released, isn't there a tiny flat blade slot?

I would epoxy the caps back on and run the stock units. You want that last sealing oring, in my opinion.

Also, when you assemble the carbs, swap the locations of the float bowls so the side that has the tab to limit turning the screws is on the oposite side.

 

Yes...they do have a very small flat blade slot. It turns out the cap that came off is nice and snug when re-fitted, so a small dab of JB Weld and it should be just fine, so yes I will re-use those screws, after cleaning them up.

I haven't tried to remove the plenum yet, but pretty sure I will proceed after I spend more time researching. I'm in no hurry and because it's my first time just don't want to mess it up. Plus I'm busy with other stuff!

Thanks, Capt!

 

Finally got up the nerve.......not too bad so far. Got some cleaning to do.

Also, shouldn't I remove the little choke plunger for cleaning purposes (3rd photo down) and if so do I use a wrench on that fitting? I don't think they just "pull out".

TIA!

 

Good job!

VERY CAREFULLY remove the choke plungers. As straight/perpendicular as you can get the wrench on there. DO NOT apply any twisting / off vector force. You do not want to break the plastic. Not available separate from the $50 Starter Valve Set.

If those carbs didn't look like that, I would normally say, don't touch em. And I still might. I will sometimes just pull the little rubber boot and spray some WD-40 and make sure I have good action. They passages typically don't "plug" up, but can.

 

Thank you.....didn't know about the fragility thing so will be extra careful. I removed two but left two in because the actuating rod would have been too complicated to remove to get them out, so like you said will just work a little WD40 in there to make sure they are working nice and free.

This morning I cleaned the bodies with Purple Stuff and a toothbrush which took a LOT of grime off! Now doing an ultrasonic cleaning.

So far so good. Will be nice to reassemble with everything nice and clean!

One last thing I'm concerned with is making sure I get the little washer and o-ring out from the pilot screw hole so I can replace them. Very hard to see in there even with a flashlight. I have a small piece of wire to fish it out but don't want to mar any of the metal inside there.

Speaking of wire.....even though I have each carb numbered with a sharpie, I also attached a piece of plastic coated wire to carbs #1-3, color coded in sequence by alphabet (blue=1, green=2, white=3). in case the sharpie marks wear off. We did it the same when I did irrigation work using multi-conductor valve wire to keep track of which zone went to what terminal on the controller.

Oh - I also removed the little black vacuum caps before dropping in the UC and have a new set to replace them with.

 

These are the silicone caps for the vacuum lines......(Amazon). I chose this kit because it also contained plugs I can use when I work on fuel tanks.....

 

So... you been scrubbing and rinsing and ultra-sonicing... BEFORE accounting for all the parts?

ALWAYS extract the washer and orings before doing anything like that. The easiest way to get the orings and washers out... is to do what you did. And then never find them.

Take a small, but stiff, wire and curl over the smallest hook you can with the smallest needle nose you have. Then spray WD-40 down the hole and start poking and pulling and get those items outa there. You won't "mar" anything down there. Even if your kit comes with replacements, those are items you always want to recover for the future.

Keep on keepin' on.