Rogue's NC30 Project

Rovsun is the brand. It is the largest at a price point, but you could always use a larger one. Biggest you can afford and have space for is the way to go. Works great just remember to turn off the heating element before you shut down for the day.

 

Stupid master won’t pressure up. Ahh, I figured it out. I had forgotten to torque the actual calipers together last night. Faaak me. Pressure is bench good. Test ride next weekend will see what is what.

 

For me, the key is the angle of the master. Banjo below the tiny bleed port in the master. This allows air bubbles to get past the banjo and up to where they can be released into the reservoir, and subsequently fluid moves down into the line.

I can usually move the clip on and/or manipulate the master on the bar to achieve this angle.

After getting in that position, just kinda "slap" the end the brake lever. This moves the piston enough to expose the port and let the air bubbles up into the cup. The "slapping" also serves as a bit of a jolt to move bubbles. I can stand there and watch the bubbles come up and the fluid level go down.

No guarantees obviously, but this ALWAYS makes a difference for me. I can get a firm-ish lever feel by doing just this without cracking a bleeder. Then when I've got some lever resistance I know I can finish with a traditional bleed.

 

What price point was that?

 

$100 shipped. Like 2 years ago. Amazon.

Update. Still waiting for Tyga front reservoir among other bits. The HEL lines use an AN/10mm x 1 thread so I need to source that fitting. Racetronix, but more research tomorrow. Back to the Nova.

+1 on the slap. I was going standard route, but like the idea of shifting the banjos below the master bleed port. Next time. Lol

 

Wife said “ you are too irritated go ride and remember what it is to like motorcycles”. Feeling 400 hundredly…lol

 

Worth a mention with the NC particularly that if you're not careful you can end up with an air-lock in the hose to the res. For that reason when bleeding I tend to disconnect it from the bracket so I can raise it up some more.

 

Yeah I noticed that might be an issue. I am waiting for a new fitting so I can finally complete the rear brake assembly. I will probably just drop the bolt out of the higher mount position and let the nipple side of the caliper swing upwards while bleeding or just remove the caliper entirely to start the process and remount once I get piston movement.

 

Rear caliper is a whole new pain in the rear!

I tend to bleed it through normally then take it off, pump out the pistons until they're as out as safe, manipulate it so that all air will flow to the top, leave it for a decent while, flicking the hose a few times every while and then push the pistons all the way in. That forces any remaining air out through the M/C.

 

I cannot get the rear mc to pressure up. Took it all apart, cleaned it out. Placed it in the vice and placed fluid on the reservoir side. Thumb on the “brake line side” and watched it draw fluid in until both side of the mc were full.
Connected the line with fluid in it and I still can’t get pressure. F-*#!
I had to put it down for the night. Spring with seal is reversed in photo to my understanding.

 

The piston with the seal is backwards too.

But the seal is installed correctly. The "flared" end of the seal enters the bore first.

 

The piston is cupped to mate to the push rod. I am pretty sure that is how it goes together. In my picture the “receptacle” end of the piston is facing the pushrod. My picture is unclear. IDK.
Here is what the manual has.

 

Then at the very least, your seal is installed backwards. But I'm still pretty damn sure you have the whole thing backwards.

When I assemble WORKING master cylinders, the seal on the piston is the very last thing that gets pushed in with the flared end entering first.

Notice what end #12 is pushing on #13. The flat sided, thicker, cylinder shaped end.

 

I think I will pull it apart and take more photos to get it right. So irritating. lol Thanks for the help.

 

I pulled the line at the caliper and force-fed back towards the MC with the banjo loose. Filled
Opened both sides of the caliper and forced until it came out the other side. Filled.
Tighten everything up and after about 10min I am getting pressure enough to push pistons a bit. yay

 

But you took it apart and assembled it correctly tho, right?

 

I did not pull it apart since it was showing signs of working. It wouldn't pressure up if it was wrong, would it?

 

Well if it is assembled as you pictured the piston and seal, it is wrong. So apparently. It's still wrong.

 

On top of #13 in your diagram is the cap seal that is on the end of the spring. You can see the little nub that engages the ID of the spring.

On the bottom of #13 is thicker cylinder section that has the seal next to it. It is being pushed on by #12.

 

That is exactly how it goes together. But it doesn't do a really good job of showing the orientation of the seals.

This might help with the orientation:

honda-vfr400r3-1990-l-japan-nc30-105-f-11_big3IMG01160094_0b30.gif (1500×795) (cmsnl.com)