Latest acquisition....original owner 1983 VF750F - Euro version

Agree!

Like I said, I did last time and wanted to play it by ear this time. Live and learn!

 

It’s all good B
You do whatever it takes


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Thanks - I really enjoy the learning process and all the help you guys have given me. Drinks on me if you ever get to town......

 

The boot clamps need to be loosened to the end of the nut the bolt is on. Then they will seat.

I loosen them with my finger on the backside of the nut until the bolt end is flush if that makes any sense

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Did that,thanks.

Trust me, I was double checking everything I could think of. Sprayed a little extra silicon lubricant right at the trouble areas too, which seemed to help.

That's why I'm thinking a little added heat right on those two boots might do the trick.

I've also learned it's best to give it a rest when you come up against an obstacle that you're wrestling with for a while without resolution. Live to fight another day without doing something stupid out of desperation.

Tomorrow is another day.......

 

^^ exactly!

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These are the brand new OEM Honda insulators and clamps I used when I did the Blue RC26 bike.....



These are the $15/set one day delivery Amazon made in China versions I just received.....



Would rather use the OEM, but to save time I opted for these. Next time I will order well ahead of time and get the OEM. I will report back how things go. Some cool temps crept in last night so not ideal but maybe I will use a heat gun.......

 

I hope the china ones work for you Bazza but the stock ones have notches on them for clearance, it looks like the china boots don't have that.

 

Hi everyone!

With a slight warming trend, today was the day to get back to it.

Even though I had a new set of insulators, my plan was to continue what I started with and try and get the last 2 seated, and if it wasn't happening, then start over with the new insulators.

Today I used a hair dryer and some WD40 and a LOT of pushing, prying, and pulling and I finally got the last 2 seated. And nothing got broke...lol.

Couldn't wait to try and fire her up!

Hooked up the fuel bottle, pulled the choke, and hit the starter button. Didn't take long and she came to life!

When I took this video she had been running very shortly and the idle ran up because the choke was still on. You can hear when I take the choke back off. Then it's just idling without any choke. Then I rev it a few times.

I'm taking a break and then will return to start putting the little things back together on it. I'm also still flushing out the fuel tank which is coming along nicely.

What do you think?

 

Looking and sounding good


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Thank you six!

I just turned the idle down and it sounds heaps better!

 

Just went out and ran it again. Now it's running even smoother! Man, am I happy!

 

Outstanding!!!!
Love the sound of a well tuned v4


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Take another video. Warmed up with the idle adjusted to ~1100-1200. Give it a rev and let the throttle snap back on it's own and settle back into an idle.

Will say the engine sounds good, not getting any tapping or chain noise thru the phone audio.

 

Audio not the greatest going through my camera but you can get a feel for it anyway..

I just shot this vid in the dark. You get it from cold start choke on at first onwards. Looks like the idle is set pretty good. I could turn it a hair down some more, I guess.

Towards the end I was trying to turn off the lights with my left hand standing next to the lift table reaching across and couldn't get the button moved over. Afterwards I went over to that side it turned them off easily. That's why you see that part with the high beams going on and off...ha ha.

Got more to do but stoked the carb work turned out so good!

Appreciate everyone's help...more than you know!

 

It might be settling down back to idle a bit on the slow side, but sounds pretty good. Potentially a small intake leak. But it's not hanging up, so it can't be that bad.

Sounds a little "ticky/tappy", but phone audio isn't anywhere near the same as being there in person. Tends to amplify certain sounds.

Good job.

 

I heard the "clacking" as well. But when I ran it this morning it sounded much "quieter".

On the throttle return response......yeah......when I did my Ninja I learned that can result when the nuts are tightened too much at the cable housing ends where they go into the carb. throttle "wheel". Not sure I can do anything about that now without removing the carbs again but will take a look. It's not really that bad so maybe will leave things alone for now.

I'm going to turn the jets in a bit too and see if that helps. Will fiddle with it tomorrow and then post another vid.

The BIG NEWS is I got another fuel tank off eBay in very good nick except one small ding in the front. Inside is CLEAN! Same color as mine except doesn't have the V-Four badging on the back. I intend to use it on the bike until I get the original finished. It was just under $150 incl. shipping. I'm stoked!

 

That's a good score, for sure.

So you think you might not have enough slack in the cable? You know there is an adjustment on the pull cable right before it goes into the right handlebar switch, right?



You ALWAYS make sure you put that with some adjustment in either direction before setting the cable on the carbs you can now no longer access.

 

[QUOTE="Captain 80s, post: 648128, member: 13260] You ALWAYS make sure you put that with some adjustment in either direction before setting the cable on the carbs you can now no longer access.[/QUOTE]

great detail thats usually overlooked.

i just sits me 'airy bum on the deck next to the vfr's port side for access to throttle cables on carburettors.

the screw heads on the bracket might be in some stage of being stripped out, so i always remove cables at the bracket and leave it in place after a marking to identify which is the pull cable.



its even easier to remove carbs and attached cables together for cable removal up top.

 

I think it has something to do with the cable end nut(s) being tightened too much and not sure if it would help trying to adjust by the lever adjuster.

The reason I say that is the same thing happened with the Ninja and the only way I was able to resolve it was to loosen those two nuts down where the cables went into the carb. wheel. Except in the case of the Ninja......the hand grip/throttle had to be physically twisted back by hand in order to return. Not this case on this bike. It returns just fine - maybe just not "snappy".

I'll take another look tomorrow.

FWIW, I took a photo of the position of the throttle cable ends at the wheel before removing the carbs. At re-installation they were in the same position. I think my mistake was not paying enough attention to the return action before finishing with the carb re-install. I just wanted to make sure everything was working.

All these little things though will help me in the future so I don't make the same mistake.

What I'm wondering is why all these little tips are not mentioned in the damn factory manual....or even in Clymers!

Everyone says...get the manual....read the manual......right........