Latest acquisition....original owner 1983 VF750F - Euro version

Thanks, Tom. I'm trying. Lot to learn and it also takes a lot of time to do this stuff too so won't happen overnight!

 

on a clean bike like yours you might get away with fixing your carbs in about 15 minutes simply by cleaning the clogged idle jets with a wire, the most common carb problem on bikes coming out of periods of inactivity and dont idle well. if that fixes things, there is no need for any more carb work unless fuel leaks develop somewhere down the road someday.

best to put fuel into carbs and test for any leakage for half an hour on brown cardboard before fitting.

 

Thanks, S-man......really appreciate the advice!

Mostly I plan just to do as little as possible...whatever comes in the kit, I will be looking at.

The pilot screws are all accessible so am doing those - replacing with the ones that came in the kit....new spring, washer, o-ring....

The kit came with new plugs for the pilots too, so guess I should put those in as mine didn't have any. Maybe optional (?)

Other than the leak test you mentioned, the only way to test the carbs though is to put them back on the bike, so might as well do as much as I can within' reason.

I should have everything done by tomorrow, so we'll see.......

 

I also have an unopened brand new bottle of Wintergreen Oil....and while I have never tried the method to recondition the intake insulators, I will consider doing that as well.

 

You can try that but I have never really had luck refurbishing the insulators. It is my first purchase when I know I am doing carb work. Just my experience is all. Also I am not the pro here. Lol

 

I’m with Rogue … I have an extra set for every bike I own


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Point taken, guys.

I did just that with the last bike I had the carbs off of - the Blue RC26.

Turned out the old ones looked OK enough to re-use, although I was happy to have and use the new set I bought.....along with a whole new set of clamps.

On this bike, I figured I'd wait and see what the old ones looked like, and could use this Wintergreen Oil treatment if needed.

Right now, the old ones look good enough to re-use. But I'm glad you both spoke up as I'm still very new at doing carb work and can use all the advice anyone wants to throw this way.

I should also mention that 2 of the insulators have an angle to them - which matches up with the way the carbs fit, so I'm thinking that's a good thing, as long as I get them properly aligned.

Right now, I'm getting ready to re-assemble everything. Did you know Simple Green comes in a "LEMON" flavour? I poured some out last night into a bowl to soak some parts in and the whole house smelled WONDERFUL!

Also I learned that carb cleaner will melt a plastic container so don't use plastic for soaking any parts with carb cleaner...lol....

Most everything inside looks pretty good but I cleaned it all anyway and will replace what was provided in the kits.

The old bowl gaskets were done - couple of them broke up while removing, and I had to clean off a little adhesive someone had used to hold them in. I test fitting one of the new gaskets and it holds just fine.

I couldn't remove two of the floats because the hinge pin couldn't clear a linkage arm that I didn't want to remove. I think I'll be fine because the other two float needles look fine.

I removed the pilot screws and checked what they were set at before removing. 7.5 half turns = 3.75 turns out. Does that sound right? I always thought it would be 2 1/2 turns.

Thanks again for all the assistance and input. This work is actually fun as long as you're not fighting a deadline and have all the right parts, materials, and tools!

A few pics......

 

There's no hole in the linkage arm to remove the float pin?

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WHOA........game changer! Thank you SO much J.! I don't know why I didn't notice this before!

Both floats are now out and new parts going in.

A good thing because I noticed the spring action is much better on the two float needles I replaced.

YAH!!!!!!!!!

 

Little work on the chrome covers. Aluminum foil and coca-cola takes off the corrosion and makes it all shiny.

 

OK - had to take a break from trying to get the carbs back on.

The RC26 wasn't too bad when I did those....but this one is crazy!

I had the fronts secure in their boots....but the backs were a good 1/2" off....I'm not lying. No way you get those on by a little screwdriver prying.

Then I thought if I loosened them all and tried to get them all lined up I'd have better luck. Nope.

I'm not opposed to doing more maneuvering but thought I'd see if anyone here had a better idea.

Warm out today and the boots are plyable so I doubt a heat gun would do anything. I have some slylube on the boots too. Clamps aren't too tight. The angle of these intakes is just crazy!

 

They are some of the hardest carbs to set. After you set the front, the rears are so far off you think there is no way. New insulators is the way.

But it is possible with old boots and a heat gun is part of the equation. You're not just making the rear boots easier to stretch, but heating the front boots allows them to give and let the carbs shift forward some too.

The other part of the equation is two Snap On radiator hose tools instead of a flat blade.

 

If you can get the rear boots at a 45degree angle the fronts should pop in first, then the rears can be persuaded downward. That's how I did it on the Magna

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I usually apply a little lubricant on the carbs …


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Maybe I should get new insulators. I will order some right now and then go back out and keep playing with what I have. Thanks!

I will try this....thanks!

Yeah I did that already. Just trying to get the angles worked out is challenging.....thanks, six!

 

Try the wintergreen rejuvenation before spending big bucks for insulators. It worked the first couple of times for me with rock hard boots. They turned out very pliable.

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OK thanks!

 

I just checked prices.. did they get cheaper cause I feel like they used to be way more than $15 each.

Might want to just try the wintergreen while you wait on new ones

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OK, made a little progress. Still not sure if I can get it done using these insulators but will take another look tomorrow. Maybe use some heat (?)

I'm now convinced I made a mistake by trying to reuse the old ones. You guys tried to tell me...lol.....live and learn!

I have a new set coming tomorrow but tell you the truth if I can get these last two to slip on all the way, I think I'm gold.


Left side front and rear:






Right side front and rear - these are the ones not fully seated, obviously......

 

When they get that stiff I just replace them … but of course it’s your call


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