Latest acquisition....original owner 1983 VF750F - Euro version

Got some parts today I bought from a seller on the west coast.

I used Pirate Ship for shipping and it saved some money!

4 boxes worth!

Check out the tool kit and this nose fairing bra.....how freaking cool is that?





I test fit it on my fairing........

 

I posted some stuff about doing an electrolysis treatment of my Yellow bike's fuel tank in that thread.

I'm doing the same treatment right now for this bike's tank.

I've been doing some thinking about different approaches to assist with the internal cleaning, in addition to the electrolysis and/or washing nuts, bolts, etc around inside.

Such as inserting a nylon scrubbing brush inside and also a small 360 degree rotating spray nozzle....that kinda thing.

I realize this has to be carefully done not to damage any internal piping, etc.

That said....these kind of brushes on a flexible extension for example.....something like that. Maybe a smaller (think toothbrush) brush.

 

I think a Rust-Eze rotation after electrolysis (to clean up the little missed pockets), followed by a hot water and then high alcohol % rinse is a good progression.

You break one of those off or wrap around some piping... "Noooooo! Why did I do that??!!"

 

Yep. I will have to proceed with caution.

I'd prefer sticking with mostly a liquefied approach. You know though......whenever I use any brushes in the impact driver format....I have the choice to go at it with a lower speed cordless screwdriver or my more powerful/higher speed cordless impact wrench. So something like this.....it would be the cordless screwdriver. And a small diameter brush than those in my photo.

Getting back to the liquid though......something that had more pressure than a water hose, smaller, and could flex into different shapes to go deeper inside the tank. Go with that hot water. That's a direction I want to explore more.

Another thing that bugs me is trying to empty out the tank with the way both openings are recessed.....it just doesn't lend itself to draining everything out. I know there's a remedy for this, aside from cutting my own new hatch in, just not sure what it would be. But that's also something I'd like to work out......

 

Something like this looks interesting........

G-Sunny All Metal RV Flexible Swivel Stick with Shutoff Valve,RV Flexible Black Tank Wand,Powerful Rotary Cleaning Capability for Cleaning Deposits,63 Inch

 

getting the last of the liquid out of the tank is easy, just throw in an old t-shirt.

 

My problem is not so much the liquid.......but all the rust particles and pieces that I broke loose with the electrolysis.

Sorry I should have been more specific.

I mean you can hold the tank in both hands and shake back and forth both right side up or upside down and only so much comes out.

Maybe get it dried out and try blowing it out with air?

 

I have used a 1/4” hose duct taped to my mini -vac with some success. Everything had to be dry though.

about 2ft of hose in length.

 

Never thought about using a mini-vac.........GREAT idea.........Thanks, Rogue!

 

Some good news. The original rear brake line that was clogged is now un-clogged and re-installed on the bike and the rear caliper appears to be working as it should. It would have been ideal for me to disassemble the caliper, clean, and rebuild, and ultimately I may have to do that. But for now just going to move onto the front brakes and play things by ear as they happen.

Once I get the bike on the road I can re-access as needed.

Seems like you'll know if the brakes are working just sitting on it and rolling it bake and forth engine off as you apply the caliper/pedal, for the most part.

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How did I "unclog" the brake line? Soaking in in vinegar mostly. I also took a piece of fishing monofilament and ran it down the insides, just to make sure it was open. Then squirted water through it, blew air through it, and lastly gave it a 30 minute soak in plain water.

Just a seat of the pants approach like a lot of stuff I do...lol.

Learning as I go.

I also started the engine today after a couple weeks have gone by and it started right up and ran very smoothly. I pulled out the shop towels I had in the in intakes and it slowly died. I wonder if I re-attach the air cleaner f that resolves this? I will try later today and report back.

After 2 electrolysis sessions to date.....I drained and cleaned the fuel tank out again this morning. Did more shaking to get solids out. See pics below of what I'm dealing with. I think I did pretty good today getting it cleaned out and decided to go one more time under electrolysis, so that's the status on the tank right now. I've made very good progress on it so far so feeling good.

Going to grab some lunch and then head back out.

The last 2 pics below are the brake caliper with a wooden paint stir stick to keep the pads from closing too far. Per Captain's advice, I did this to test the caliper and it closed on the stick just fine, thankfully.

 

Please tell us that you cleaned those piston outer walls with SimpleGreen and a toothbrush before reassembly...

 

+1

That's the whole point of extending the pistons out before pushing them back in for new pads or getting back onto the rotor.

Oh and Terry's tip of using am old shoe lace to get the backs. I also ordered some "gear floss" for that job.

 

I just used brake fluid and they cleaned right up.

Now trying to figure out how to bleed front brakes. Start with bleeder furthest from master, then do the one closer, right?

 

That has never been a real difference maker for me. What is though is to loosen the handlebar and slide it up a little to disengage the locating pin (if still intact). Now rotate the bar forward enough that the master has an uphill slant, hose banjo lowest - lever end highest. This allows the air bubbles to make it up to the bleed port (the tiny hole under the little stainless press in "hood").

You can kinda just slap on the end of the brake lever after filling the reservoir and you'll see air bubbles start coming up.

That is the #1 biggest advantage I have found when bleeding brakes manually. I've even said, "nah, I don't need to do it this time" only to then struggle. As soon as I get the master in the "position", I immediately get bubbles out and a bleed very soon after.

Good luck!!

 

Thanks - great advice, as always!

I ended up just swapping out the OEM bleeders for speed bleeders (I didn't realize I still had 2 left in my parts box!) and after doing that got her done in about 15 minutes!

I have one of those tube/bag collectors so fluid doesn't squirt all over the place.

I had air bubbles coming up before I did the swap but trying to open and close the bleeders didn't seem to be doing the job. With the speed bleeders I didn't have to worry about which side to do or do that opening-closing deal.

I'm done for today and will get back on it in the morning.

As far as I know the clutch and brakes are now in working order and the engine runs.

I'll put the air box back on in the morning and see how she runs.

 

Looks like carbs are going to have to come off. Not all together surprising.

Stay tuned.....

 

Wasn't all that bad. Hardest part was disconnecting the throttle cables. The 2 screws on the bracket I usually remove were un-accessible. Maybe I wasn't doing it right.

Anywhoo.....looks fairly clean so far but I'm sure there's gunk to be cleaned out in the jets.

It was running before I removed the carbs. Just not all all cylinders, sounded like.

I have the 4 kits so let's see what happens....

 

Wow the brass isn't even discolored

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

 

This bike has been well cared for most of it's life.

Most of what I'm dealing with now would be the same for any bike, if stored away for a few years.

I feel a genuine responsibility to give the bike what it deserves in the way of care and restoration and only hope I'm up to the task.
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On another note........holy cow you should see all the tank cleaning goodies just delivered from Amazon! Can't wait to try out that wand thing with the twirling 360 deg nozzle! Use with some hot water and yowza!!!

 

You seem to be doing just fine Bazza.