Latest acquisition....original owner 1983 VF750F - Euro version

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Bazza, Nov 23, 2023.

  1. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    Lookin' good
     


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  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    mmmmm.... Apple Butter

    sugar-free-apple-butter-500x375.jpg
     


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  3. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    Cinnamon sticks are a nice touch...
     


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  4. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    LOL....good stuff, guys.....

    This will be the first rear master cylinder job for me on these bikes. Good practice for what I will be facing on the Yellow bike.

    I read up on the procedure in my Clymer manual last night. Some good tips there.

    Don't take the caliper apart unless absolutely necessary...most things don't require it. Don't soak the caliper in anything except brake fluid due to concerns for the rubber parts. Don't re-use any brake fluid (that one I already knew).

    At this point my biggest concern is not messing up the boogered fastener on the handle. Cool weather out today (50's) so that will help "shrink" the steel fastener a bit, maybe. The line was attached very tightly so someone apparently really liked putting some mustard on the brake side of things, so far.....
     


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  5. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Depressing the plunger gives you better access to the circlip holder for the pliers if needed. You can also move it to the side slightly.

    Pay attention to order and orientation of assembly. The seal will often look backwards to people.
     


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  6. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    Agree with Cap … don’t ask me why


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  7. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Copy that......:)
     


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  8. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Thank you!
     


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  9. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    So far so good.

    Old front brake caliper assembly is off. Ended up having to drill that top bolt out. People who apply ridiculous amounts of torque to fasteners......smh.....

    New assembly on, but I didn't fill with fluid yet. Saving that for later when I do both front and back.

    Back going OK. Got everything off and MC is on the kitchen counter awaiting surgery.

    The rear brake hose going from the reservoir to the master looks kinda soft. This isn't pressurized right? I'd like to replace it while everything is out. Will research. I have extra brake hose from my 356 which might work.....

    BTW....I had some great tunes playing from my Sansa View MP3 player.

    It's a 16 GB so tons of room for music. I loaded it up years ago and just recently brought it back out for usage.

    One of the playlists is 2 Joe Walsh concerts.....back in the early 70's with Barnstorm......





    Audio not the greatest but the music more than makes up for it! :)

    Will post some pics later......
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2024


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  10. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Missing paint might indicate previous brake fluid leakage?

    Got the circlip and rod out but not sure how the piston comes out. I tapped on it from the other side and nada.

    Thinking about doing a vinegar soak.

    Any thoughts? TIA!

    IMG_3484.JPG

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    IMG_3492.JPG
     


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  11. straycat

    straycat Member

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    How about a bit of penetrating oil and if you repeatedly push that piston in and also wit to return (spring loaded ?? if I recall), it may work its way out .
     


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  12. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Yes....it's supposed to be spring loaded. In fact one of the tutorials I read warned to be careful of flying parts once the rod is removed!

    Yeah right. Mine isn't even budging!

    I have it soaking in vinegar for now. Will see if that helps...

    Thanks for your post and suggestion, Stray! ;)
     


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  13. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Look at the corrosion....even on the reservoir body.......yikes!

    IMG_3498.JPG

    IMG_3501.JPG
     


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  14. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    IMG_3486.JPG IMG_3487.JPG
     


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  15. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Comparison of the OEM (left) and aftermarket (right) brake lever assemblies........

    IMG_3477.JPG

    IMG_3478.JPG
     


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  16. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Vinegar did the trick....got everything out! :)
     


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  17. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Inspect the bore on the rear master cylinder after cleaning it up and make sure it's not pitted.

    Also, speaking of bore, did you verify the new aftermarket front is the same diameter as stock?
     


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  18. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Thanks - I just got home from work and am going to start work on cleaning up the MC, incl. the bore. I also want to repaint it.

    On the aftermarket assemblies....no I didn't measure their bores. The listing states 14mm.

    I already used one for the clutch side on my Blue RC26 and it worked great!
     


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  19. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Clutch is a totally different application, it just needs to push enough fluid to open the clutch plates. It is not pushing against enough resistance for you to likely feel a big difference if indeed it was a different diameter than stock.

    Your new brake master is not the same size as the original. The original is 5/8", or almost 16mm. It's going to have more power, but it will be at the expense of more lever movement. It will feel more mushy than before. Too mushy? That will be for you to determine. Everyone has their preference for brake lever feel vs power.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2024


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  20. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    OK thanks for that info. What I had in mind was to use these aftermarkets for now just to get things fixed. As you know, I prefer original OEM bikes, so at some point will go back to the OEM equip. after I get time to rebuild them.

    I will post my findings after I get the brakes going. I'm curious now how much a difference it will make!
     


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