1996 VFR750F NOT CHARGING

Hello Everyone, I have a 1996 Honda VFR750F. I replaced the battery recently, the rectifier was replaced about 6 months ago and then the bike sat over winter, one day I went out to start it and it wouldn’t start, the battery was about a week old at that point and I was really confused. Checked the voltage and with the bike off it was 12.6-12.8 volts and running it dropped to 12.2 volts. I replaced the stator because the rectifier was changed not too long ago and I had the same readings. When I remove the headlight fuse the voltage jumps to 13.2-13.4 volts, when I put the fuse back in it drops. Last night I put the positive of my multimeter in the Frame and ran the negative to the negative terminal on the battery. With the fuse out I didn’t get a reading, with it in I got 0.02 volts. So I believe I’m grounded out somewhere I just don’t know where to start. Thank you.

 

What Reg/Rect did you purchase?

 

Hi! I think we talked the other day, I don’t know for sure of the brand but I remember it now being overly expensive. I’m not exactly convinced that’s the issue as of right now, I could very well be wrong. But it really throws me off when I pull the headlight fuse and it jumps up to where it should be, along with getting a reading on the frame. With that being said I hope I am wrong and it’s just replacing the rectifier

 

When you take the very high draw of the headlight out of the picture and your charging rate goes up, it's classic bad (or wrong/cheap) Reg/Rect.

That's why people pull them to get home with Reg/Rect failures. And don't sit at stop lights with their brake light on.

 

That makes sense, what about the frame having a vintage reading with the headlight fuse in vs out? Also if it is the rectifier, what’s a good one to buy?

 

I don't know about the voltage reading, but the reg/rect does go to bike's ground, could be related.

And the same thing I told you over on VFRD.

Look. Let's say that your cheap R/R isn't somehow the culprit this time, it's STILL not the unit you want to try and live with. It will fuck you. How expensive will that be when it's not in your garage or driveway? If you buy a real unit and it's surprisingly not the problem, then throw that cheap thing under your seat and move on. But continuing to chase a problem with a R/R that NOBODY would have recommended you (or anybody) buy is a waste of time. Need to eliminate the LIKELY suspects, and we know your stator is putting out voltage, and you have a new battery. What else has changed? The R/R.

 

That’s Fair, what’s a likely brand or place to get one from that you’d recommend?

 

I already recommended going to Roadstercycle and gave him the link to The Drill.

But mello dude is right, get the FH020AA

 

That’s very true, I was on my way to typing that sorry.

 

Where do you live?

 

Will this one work?

 

I’m in Missouri, stationed at Fort Leonard Wood

 

Just so if anybody is in that area and wants to hook up with a known good unit to confirm.

I know money is tight for a lot of people right now, but spend the dough if you can and get it sorted so you can get your ass out on the road.

Oh and I hope you saved your old stator, it's likely just fine.

Good luck!

 

I appreciate that, and unfortunately I’m not rolling in the dough lol and with the $200 just spent on the stator but my bike is my main transportation so I again ti get this figured out. I appreciate all the help

 

That one absolutely will work. I would recommend getting a kit that goes straight to the battery, but not absolutely necessary.

 

Don't just crimp the new unit in! The 3 stator wires should be soldered. Crimped connections will build excessive heat and likely fail. At least use solder-seal connectors

 

Also, keep in mind mounting will likely not be "bolt on". You might have to create a new hole or two on the subframe plate, as I'm sure you're not buying a Mounting Adapter.

 

I’ll see how much the mounting adapter is and hopefully I can make it work.

 

How do I route it straight to the battery?