My RC24 resurrection

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Wheezy, Sep 24, 2021.

  1. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    I’ve installed a new fuel pump and it keeps blowing the 10A ignition fuse. I’ve tried chafing the polarity on the wires on the pump and the same thing happens. Can’t figure out where I have a short. Any ideas and checks I could do? I assume it’s something to do with the fuel cut relay?


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  2. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Have confirmed continuity between fuse and fuel cut relay / fuel cut relay and fuel pump / fuel pump and frame ground.

    Managed to blow another fuse with the fuel pump relay removed so assume it’s not that, but cannot see where else the problem will be.


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  3. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    ehhh wiring, not my strong point. Maybe you have a cut in your wire loom that is grounding out between the fuel pump and fuse? Someone smarter help out Wheezy. :)
     
  4. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    What do you get when you measure the voltage from the loom side of the fuse to earth with no fuse in?

    It should be zero
     
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  5. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    chinese pump ? :eek: wouldn't be too unusual to find BFF (Bad From the Factory).

    measure resistance across pump wires and report. also, unplug pump to see i f fuse blows with no pump in circuit.
     
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  6. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Right, a couple of weeks off on holiday in the north of England, so not much doing on the VFR. Back on it now.
    Firstly, the fuel pump. Yes, lesson learnt re. Buying cheap stuff from fleabay. The new pump was the cause of the 10A fuse blowing. I checked everything else. All continuity on all the connections was correct. Opened up the replacement pump and the points would not move and I just thought ‘what else is wrong, that I can’t see?’ So I’ve written that £35 off and I’ve emailed Quantum pumps to see what they think might be suitable.

    In the meantime, I’ve started work on the rear end and yesterday turned into a dismantling day. Firstly, the rear brake hydraulic assembly came out. Yes, the pistons are completely siezed and the hydraulic actuator looks knackered too. Then the rear wheel came off and I got the sprocket and disc rotor off. Lastly, the chain guard and brake support assembly came off. I’ll get the chain off later, and then start cleaning up, before getting a big order in for all the rubbers. I’ll take the wheel in to work, where I should be able to dismantle it further, ready to get it powder coated.
    [​IMG]
    More boxes of bits


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  7. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    [​IMG]


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  8. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    I used my air compressor with a spray nozzle attached to remove stuck pistons. I place a towel at the "exit" end of the caliper to catch the piston from shooting across the room. I leave in the bleed nipple and make sure the nozzle has a somewhat soft point on it so as not to damage the threads for the brake line bolt. Works really well. My compressor is set at 125 but I bet 50 might make it go.
    If you don't have a compressor try the local tyre shop. It takes all of 2 mins.
     
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  9. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I think it is better to use the brake hydraulics to shift the pistons nearly all the way out first, and then finish off with air if you need to.
     
  10. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    ^^I thought his master was seized, but I would agree with your process.
     
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  11. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    The pistons are siezed in the calliper and the master cylinder also seems siezed.


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  12. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    breaker's yard for replacements ?

    gallery_3647_3505_132315.jpg

    gallery_3647_3505_253344.jpg
     
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  13. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    ^^^Stop teasing us with 40yr old photos of awesomeness SM!!

    If you cannot get your rear caliper to work, I might have a spare that I can sell you for cheap. Let me know if I need to look for that stuff. :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2022
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  14. Colddevil

    Colddevil Member

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    I'm not proud of this... but I have used a grease gun to push out seized pistons successfully before. It makes quite a bit of a mess to clean up. But it worked.

    If you've got a clean and operational front master mounted somewhere, you may also be able to attach the banjo to the rear temporarily to unstuck them.
     
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  15. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    Dude I use that method all the time …. It’s the best way I think


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  16. Colddevil

    Colddevil Member

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    Alright, well then, let me revise my statement... I am proud to say that I've successfully used a grease gun to push out stuck pistons before! Got the picture hanging next to my diploma on the refrigerator.

    ... but, I'd still try to use a working master from another set of brakes first if it's available just to avoid the grease cleanup.
     
  17. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    At least you have a picture… what’s a diploma ?


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  18. Colddevil

    Colddevil Member

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    An expensive, ego-inflating piece of paper that's ultimately worth very little.
     
  19. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    Ha ha ha


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  20. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    That would be awesome! I’m going to try to tackle my caliper over the next couple of days, but I’ll let you know if I give up!
     
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