Found an 8 Spoke Wheel !!

OK... starting to go back together a bit.


New steering head bearings. Gave the fork lowers a little paint. 1995 VFR front wheel is a place holder while I work on the original wheel. Radiator got a quick shot of flat black after scraping on the flaking original paint. Not great, but better. This is not a resto.

Installed some 1994 CBR caps for preload adjust only. The rebound screws were seized and mushroomed, so I decided to use them on this and machined them down flush.

 

Rear subframe and inner fender back on and the wire harness re-routed. Cleaned up, straightened and painted the brake pedal and shifter. Shot the muffler stay while I was at it.



Finally rolled it outside Saturday afternoon for a proper running. D&D sounds amazing. V4 growl without being obnoxious at all. Really happy with it. Bike ran great with no oil leaks (whew...). Smoked a little at first but cleaned up as it came up to temp, I'm sure it was just from sitting for a few years. Engine didn't make any funny noises, sounded like a healthy gear driven cam V4. Bike revved up great and settled into an idle as expected. Oh, and all the exhaust leaks are gone now after going thru the mounts.

Tested the fuel pump and it works. Checked the charging system, Low 14s. All good news. Temp gage didn't work at first, but after disconnecting the wire and reconnecting it started working. Didn't want to restart one time until I sprayed some WD40 down around the kill rocker, and worked it a few times. Had a little weirdness while manipulating one of the fuses, so the fuse box needs love too. There's still a bunch of connectors I need to go thru, along with the fuse box and kill switch.

Had to use a 1986 VFR rear brake fluid res on a small bracket. The original unit's screws were rusted frozen and the plastic was pretty hammered. This one fits in the rear cowl no problem and you can still see the level thru the sight hole. I cleaned up the hack job somebody did on the rear fender, and straightened the subframe brace where the seat latch mounts. Was bent down a bit from years of people slamming the seat into the latch. I always open the latch manually when installing seats and release with pressure on the seat.

Getting close to a test ride. I'll grab a short video clip the next time I take it outside to heat cycle it again.

 

all good stuff, funny, I remember looking at the rear rez and saying to myself, "that aint stock gen3."

 

Found this while going thru all the connectors. Pretty sure this was my little gremlin that popped up on the first test run.



After running the bike for a while it started flickering the dash lights and cutting the ignition. I initially thought it was a corroded main harness ground (which was not pretty), but then I umplugged that.

All replaced now with a new plug and wire leads soldered in and shrink wrapped. I'll run it again this afternoon after work. If it runs good I'll post up a video.

 

Your running an updated Regulator/Rectifier I hope. I had the same thing on my 91 years ago regarding the melted 30AMP plug. I ended up buying one of the last new oem harnesses around, so the bike has an entire new circulatory system, blinkers are brighter along with all the stuff. I will run these bikes till I can't walk any more - take to work every day its sunny and not storming. Good score.

 

The bike has a replacement R/R on it already. Don't know what it is, and don't care. It charges perfectly and it won't be my concern after I sell the bike.

I will care when I start working on the 1992 I'm keeping.

https://vfrworld.com/threads/1992-vfr750f-ended-up-on-my-trailer.60160/

 

Granite Blue - Babbbyyyyy

 

Electrical gremlins are sorted. The last item was the neutral switch on the crankcase that becomes finicky when hot and flickers slightly. Well with the sidestand down that meant it is cutting ignition every time it flickers. My temp "solution" before replacing the neutral switch was to jump the wires and make the bike think the side stand is up. Because it's a 3 wire switch, I can still retain the Side Stand warning light functionality when down.

I ran a whole remote fuel container with zero issues. Bike runs sweet, revs smooth and idles perfect. No oil or fuel leaks, and doesn't smoke at all now after a few heat cycles.

Should be ready for a Spring Sale pretty soon. Time to go.

 

Same t-stat? I had the side stand switch hooked up to an under seat toggle switch that I could use as a kill switch. Bike is back to stock now though.

 

I've done the hidden switch on the sidestand before too. But somewhere I could reach down and flip it without removing the seat. These days the only time I will leave my bike parked and unattended is at Motorcycle meet-ups, so I'm not overly concerned.

 

My bike was parked on a hill at a shop I worked at, a work truck which belonged to a customer who was riding a Norton backed into the bike and pushed it backward on the hill, it split the front fender and bent the side stand back. The bike did not fall over amazingly - when I replaced the broken parts, I put it back to stock no hacked switches etc. Anyone who says these bikes are not as tough as nails is nuts.

I park under the building where I work, no more bike covers, I don't even use the steering lock. If I go to a bike show, or a flea market, I use a U lock through the triple tree secured through the helmet and that sits on top of the ignition switch. I saw this set up in Madrid on the street and copied it. Best way to really secure it is against an immovable item, with a heavy chain/lock set up. I used to ride into NYC with the Interceptor and used this method well. Never left it over night though, and now I would not do that. Peace

 

OK... another change. Bought another shitty muffler for the flange and fabbed up one more slip-on for a fairly crappy Two Brothers Oval CF Magnesium slip on.



It had been cut down a bit and crappily rebuilt after some damage and was on a 1986 VFR with a Kerker 4-1 I bought off a friend. I also swapped the passenger peg brackets off of the 1992 on to this. Probably better to have some passenger pegs on the bike I'm selling. I'll use the modified ones I did for this on the 1992, that will eventually have a left exit Full TB.

In the meantime while I go thru the 1992 systems, before the resto and full exhaust, I can run the original D&D slip on I made that I like better.

 

Man, I should leave the 1st gen more often. Cool write up. Some serious cleaning and refurb.

 

How or did you modify the OE smog fittings to become bock off plates?

 

Cut the metal piping off, there's a couple options where (you'll see). You can drill and tap for something depending on what you use for a "plug" and where you cut off. I like to use Ignition Switch bolts so they look like something you shouldn't tamper with.



I'll load them up with some JB Weld too. Then I use some HT Hondabond with the orings and plate "face" against the head. Looks pretty good and kinda Factory like. You can just fill the plate and stub with JB Weld and file flush too.

Never had an issue on the 3 or 4 engines I've done.

 

Awesome! kickass as usual.

 

you can remove the hard lines along with said plates/gaskets (rear right cylinder is a bitch to get to, maybe the left one too.) Cut said line off and plug weld it. I painted them silver on one gen3 and the other one I did silver. I think black is the way to go. Anyway

 

Did a push last couple days. Here it is idling using it's own fuel system.



Still a couple things to do, but very close to sellable.

 

excellant! Is that an Ebay seat cover?

 

That is the Corbin the bike came with.