General 4th gen chat with a few issues

Spring has apparently sprung though the weather refuses to catch up, despite all that i took full advantage of my wife and kids being out for the afternoon and got some playtime in the garage yesterday. I bought a 4th gen 96 plate at the end of last summer, 47k miles, no history, condition largely unknown. Basically i was too keen to buy a VFR so bought the nicest/closest/cheapest I could find with a view to it having some gremlins. According to the odometer i've done 3.3 miles on it, that was from the petrol station so probably double to get me to the garage. In that I've established the clutch is snatchy as hell, I covered that in another post last year (thank to all with great suggestions) and the charging system doesn't work, the front brakes drag but other than that it seems to be in reasonable shape.
At the time of buying it the goal was to do an RC30 replica but the reality is that time is precious and I want to actually ride the bike I've got for a bit first, it may end up an RC30 rep but chances are it will be an occasionally used RC36....
I got as far as stripping all the plastics off to have a look at the bike and see what was lurking, turns out the bike has a full stainless system which is a bonus as i though it was just an end can. Theres a fair few bolts missing or bodged which needs addressing as the fairing rattles on the road.
The bike has had a rectifier replacement though its half the size of the original and plugs into the original cabling so assume its of a much smaller bike and has probably blown again. I've got a (chinese) R1 with associated wiring and connectors to fit but want to get to the stator to see if thats burnt out first.
Quick question on the brakes, did the 4th gen use a linked brake system? If so is the link a third flexi to the rear brake pedal to put some pressure on whenever the lever is squeezed? Is it as simple as removing the joinging pipe and capping both open ports? Did the 3rd gen use a similar system? I'm looking at potentially putting briaded hoses on the front, would a kit for a 3rd gen (which seem to be significantly cheaper) give me an isolated front and rear? I don't really want to spark a debate about linked braking systems and their pros/cons I'm old enough to have been trained to lead with the rear brake then use the front to slow so I "link brake" out of habit, I don't want the bike to put me in a situation where i could potentially lock up the rear as the bike is doing something i don't want it too.
Braced for impact.

 

Following.

I have the same clutch issue as you, so following that thread as well. I have performed a good clean and fluid flush, and that helped a little. But had not heard about that bushing replacement in the lever. Will try that next.

Yes.... pics.

 

Ha sorry, tiny bit too late for pics unless i do a build up sequence rather than a tear down sequence! Imagine if Lord Dark Helmet rode a 1996 VFR 750, then you're pretty close. The previous owner had a body shop so its been 'professionally' repainted in gloss black, everything has been repainted in gloss black, tank fairings, wheels, chain guard, you name it if it can be unbolted chances are its gloss black now. When i questioned him, checking if the bike had been dropped, he said the previous owner had rattle canned the fairing (aka rat look) but fortunatley ran out of interest before cuttung the seat in half or putting a rusty spoked wheel on the front. Fortunately with the fairing removed nothing looks badly repaired and the frame is striaght so fingers crossed.
On that note, I don't know if anyone has ever been to a body shop but there is a pervasive off white dust that gets everywhere, I assume its sanded down body filled and primer but its awful stuff. Does anyone know of a good way of removing it, I was thinking of waiting till a super hot (for UK) day, jet wash it at=nd leave the bike to bake so the electrics don't get fried, any thoughts?

 

It feels like the clutch has run out of adjustment rather than worn out, I've not had a chance to ride it hard so no idea if its slipping under load. I've ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit, the fluid thats in there looks pretty grubby so I'll flush that anyway as a matter of master cylinder rebuild but also bought a new clutch kit (EBC Carbon impreg rings) and some stiffer EBC springs. Now the bike has all the oil drained out i'll pull the clutch basket and see if it all needs replacing or keep it on the shelf for next time. I'll probably get a slave cylinder repair kit whilst its all stripped down and in bits anyway, then I'm looking for leaks when i put it all back together. If i'm feeling really flush i might put a braided hose on the clutch line then the whole things is essentially new with new fluid. I'll keep you posted.

 

its a 4th gen, carberated like my gen3. I have steel braided lines on every bike i own, front brakes/rear brakes and clutches. I go for new clutch slaves on the vfrs as I am not a fan of the over haul kits. Master cylinder and clutch masters i use OEM stuff. Not sure whats available in the UK, have used K&L a few times with mixed results. no linked brakes for these bikes btw

 

For that snatchy clutch, its probably dried crud in the slave partially jamming the piston. Very common. Pretty easy to fix with a rebuild kit and polishing the piston.

If you go the rebuild route its may be best buy a new piston as well as the rubber compoonents. Or you face a lot of polishing of the piston walls after the crud has been removed. You'll have to polish the cylinder walls as well, but that is quick and easy using (only genuine) brass disk shaped rotary brushes in a dremel. Brass is softer than the cylinder walls, and harder than the dust and dried brake fluid crud mix.

Or simply replace the slave cylinder completely.

Best rebuild the master too whilst the system is drained. This is a simpler job.

Just one thing to watch for at the end of the process...

To save a lot of potential hassle. Bleed the clutch with the slave off the bike and with its piston compressed (gently) all the way back using a "C" or "G" clamp. This removes quite a lot of air space that is not in the usual line of the fluid heading for the bleed nipple. It only takes one bleeding session when you do it this way, maybe only a couple of minutes.

 

Braided SS lines always; two styles for the VFR 4th Gen, one that copies the OEM front brake lines or the other that has separate lines from lever to caliper. I have the 2nd style on my '97. Also have rear and clutch braided SS lines. Do not trust 25 yr old rubber lines.

rostercycle for the R/R seems to be the way to go.

Replace the steering stem bearings as well.

And do not forget to check the tyre date codes.

 

Thanks guys, lots of useful info. I actually got the slave off the bike and checked the master (clutch)... Oh man its not pretty.