Battery issue?

The voltage A/C from the stator is 24v on one yellow wire, 20v in the middle and 18v on the other one?

 

It actually messes up my meter when I try to get a reading with RPMs??
I am going to town to bench test the batt. and maybe get a better meter.
I am hoping that maybe just a bad battery???

 

Are you testing between pairs of yellow wires to come up with this answer? If not then your test proceedure is incorrect
Having said that, I doubt the problem is battery from your previous comments - sorry

 

Alright I am back. Just got myself a way better meter and the battery is good!

 

You are correct, the battery is good! what exactly do you mean by between pairs of the yellow wires?
I was checking ground to one yellow wire at a time and got roughly 20v A/C for each.

 

I also picked up a cheap auto regulator ($25 @ O'Rileys) just to maybe try and see what the @#*!?

 

Do a thread search for "The Drill". Follow all the instructions. Replace what is fooked. Be happy, pop dank woolies.

 

Copy, dank woolies!

 

The output from your alternator (Stator) comes in 3 phases, all of which will be yellow wires I believe.
For the want of a better description call them A, B & C. For this test to work you need a helper who can run the motorcycle engine at a specific and constant speed (say 3000 RPM during the test) Set your mulitmeter to AC 240Volts and it should be good to go
Disconnect the socket that supplies the current to the R/R and apply your two test leads first to wires A & B, next to A & C and finally to C &B (3 pairs - got it?) Expect an output anywhere in the 30 -70 VAC, but the main thing - all three pairs should give you the same approximate output or your stator is faulty!
I'm sure if you look on Youtube you will find a demonstration of this test somewhere
Good luck

 

To check charging, start bike meter on DC volts across battery, it should be reading around 14.5v @ 5k revs with headlights on main beam.

 

no, just get the same batt. voltage that I start with 12-12.5v DC

 

Thank you Skip!
I have no connectors everything is hardwired and soldered.
I will have to cut the three yellow wires to test them like that, which I should do to remove that R/R anyway ?

 

Okay, the stator is good!
I cut the wires and did the wire to wire test three times!!
I got 65v A/C at 5000rpm on all three wires every time!!!
the impedance also checks out with below an ohm (.5 to.7)
so definitely the r/r right? it is the older Yamaha r1, it used to get hot now it doesn't.
I was able to find a newer one on eBay super cheap, I think I will just get a couple.

 

Hold on, hold on. Please provide the link to these "super cheap" R/Rs. These things are like buying fuel pumps. You don't cheap out on them.

 

I am not sure how to post a link ?
I just searched Yamaha R1 rectifier and a bunch came up!

 

I don't even need to look.

No. Just no. Do it and WHEN you have a problem you are WAY LESS likely to get help.

There will be 4 more people after me saying,
"No. Just no."

Go to

https://roadstercycle.com/

They are not cheap. Yes, there is a difference.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2245797971...PZrTjAmYng2n7XoAOVYF|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675

 

see if that works?

 

No. Just no.

 

Okay, I heard that!
Sounds like you are dead set against that!!
I thought that they were cheap enough to buy 2 and have one on hand just in case?