Rectifier Regulator Fix

After owning a f3 that burned out a rec reg and battery and reading all the fixes, I think I will attempt a new fix.
Since the rec reg is stashed inside the body fairing where is gets NO air flow, I am going to create an 3" round opening in front and behind the rec reg to create airflow right over the top of the unit. After using a rotozip to create the holes, I am going to glue expanded aluminum in the hole for debris and safety.
I will post pics after getting it done. 99vfr 800,
2002 cbrxx
2001 cbr 929
1993 zx11c
1999 bmw k1200rs--what a pig!
1993 cbr f3
1984 vfr 700 first bike

 

Others have tried this will no beneficial effects. Some have even tried attaching a computer CPU fan (they are 12VDC) which didn't help either. Of course, your results may vary!

 

Been fighting this all summer on my GEN 3 and the fix is a replacement.

I just received my 99 VFR R/R last Thursday and it is going on with a redundant 12 gauge harness. After researching lots of thread I think this is the best and final fix. It requires a number of connectors to do this and some soldering skill. The 99 has a large area and lots of fin area. May add a fan to it and it would not be a CPU fan but a good ball bearing fan about 2 times as large as a CPU fan (if it fits). In any case don't buy a sleeve bearing fan as they will go bad much faster.

Here is jpg and I had to use blue (wire) color in drawing as yellow does not show up well. 8 connectors are required (see light blue). The Ricks R/R has a 12 month warranty and I have added a LED Voltmeter but I have to think this is the best of all I have read.

 

Here's an excellent read on whats going on.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/6198/reg-rect.html

 

Caution!

1,) Be careful what you use to put the heat sink on with!!! If it doesn't transfer heat you made matters worse. On a cpu they make the clearance from heat sink to cpu very tight and then a clamp holds it down with some heat transfer heat compound in between. I am not sure what to use but lots of sealants and glues could actually block the heat from getting out.

2.) As I said earlier use a high quality ball bearing fan. Lot of fans you buy at local computer shops and retail stores may be sleeve bearings and they can cease and go bad fast.

3. Lot of the after market R/R have heat sinks on them already so go with a large as can fan. If the heat sink is all ready there just go with a large good fan blowing air air across or down the fins. Do to the clearance I may have to buy 2 small fans to blow across from the side with a small bracket. Just go to a place like geeks.com to look at fans and you will find something you like.

Using a fan is preferened as even when you are a stop light or idle the air moves across the R/R.

 

I have tested the 99 R/R on my 91 and the tests were excellent. If you compare the two devices from pictures below the size of the 99 is almost twice as large even though the area where the electronics are buried is about the same size. Now look at what the factory put in. If these were so heat sensitive than what where they thinking??

I used a dummy harness that I whipped up to test and I got 13.6 from startup and over 14.2 at throttle. My LED voltmeter stayed green and didn't even hiccup like my 91 R/R did when I turned on directional signals. It used to flash like the signals themselves. Adding a fan to this baby along with my 2nd harness and I think I will be riding without worry next spring. From the thickness of this I will be looking at running two smaller hard drive fans at a right angle to the fins to blow the heat across and to the rear of the fins. If I have room it will be two cpu fans which should move allot of air and take very little juice to run them.