Project - 1985 VF1000R Euro - Take 2

I'd go Blue personally. I don't think there's anything in there that warrants Red. And if for some reason you need to backtrack a little, Blue will be nicer on you.

My $.02

 

Seconded, I've always used blue Loctite for any engine work I've done, no issues so far. Keep the pics coming, motor looks mint!

 

Roger that fella's, I was thinking blue but figured id better double check. Re the motor looking mint. its does look clean, 40,000km on it, we will see what atrocities are awaiting when I split the cases. See if its an m2/3 gear with damaged dogs or worn shift forks or both

 

I'd use blue too, however, if you use the Honda stuff (orange or red, not sure) it is a little stronger than blue but not as permanent as red Loctite.

 

Permatex has a new orange thread locker out now too. but I only have red and blue in the shop, so Blue it is.

 

anything of note when you dropped the oil last or will it just not go into gear? hopefully a "simple" fix

 

On my first ride after I restored it 2 yrs ago (new bike to me, hadn't ridden it before), when I shifted to 2nd and hit the gas it was just making a ratcheting noise. shift to 3rd and it was fine. so either the dogs on M2/3 are done and or the shift forks are worn.

Here’s where Im at.

Looks like i have to remove the water pump and the countershaft cover (behind the drive sprocket) as well.

My gasket set has no water pump gasket so if there is a paper gasket in there ill have to make one I guess.

Even if I just have to pull that curved chrome water pipe off to split the cases, I think ill take them all out (and the oil lines as a consequence) and do the O-rings just to be safe. I have them here so it seems like the wise move.

 

Now that’s a proper workspace


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

Water pump will be a o-ring. It will likely be hard, so be easy with it, they are NLA. I HondaBond mine back in with zero issues.

You could reverse engineer it and fit a non-formed o-ring, but it might be a little trial and error to find the right size.

 

Thanks Cap'n.

I have a "Kit"
of gaskets and Orings, there may be one in there for the water pump, but I will be careful. Ill also go a search my engine parts bins in the Barn, I may have some emergency O-ring in there from one of the 2 engines that are torn down in boxes

 

Thanks, it looks a bit like a bomb went off and decimated a VF1000R just now. I need to do some clean up and organizing before I go too much further

 

I have a small lockup garage with no power or anything

Yours is a palace


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

So I removed the Water Pump. I have salvageable Oring from it, but I also have 2 generic Orings from my Kit for it as well, so im fine there.

Its pretty shitty inside, lots of rust inside and corrosion in the pipe fitting. (although it worked fine with no leaks). I found one spare one in my boxes of VF1000R treasure, but is there a way to test them before installing ? Im sure I can plug the spout and put coolant in it to see if it drips past the mechanical seal, but no way to test it under pressure. Here are the shitty one I took off and the clean spare one (mileage unknown). Ill roll the dice and go with the clean one think. Any nay sayers out there on that decision ?

 

I seem to remember reading the O ring is NLA


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

I have 2 sets of new o-rings in an aftermarket kit and also the OEM ones that came of the one I just took off, so Im ok on Orings.

question is, use the cleaner looking spare pump or clean up the rusty one I just took off. Is there any part of the internal seal that can go to shit from sitting around for X years ? one I know works (the crusty one), the other looks good, but internal condition is unknown.

 

Yes the same as any other rubber seal, been dry for yonks it’s possibly not very good now

Took the original 1992 water pump off my car, was not leaking or rattling, week later seized solid

Glad I had a new one even if it was $500


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

Might be nice to know if the clean one is "good" too. But you have to remove the frame section to replace the water pump if it needs to be replaced later after running. Which is not terrible, but not exactly fun either.

 

Hey... think you can measure the OD on the generic o-ring so I can source some?

 

O rings seem to be JIS standard rather than metric or imperial

http://sealshop.eriks.co.uk/t/JIS_O-Ring_Sizes


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

I meant what OD of the "circle" that lays in the race-track groove of the cover properly. I source viton o-rings for the float bowls on my bikes instead of buying the expensive formed items. Just sometimes it takes a couple tries to get the right size.