Stripped Oil Drain Bolt

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by audioneurotica, Oct 23, 2020.

  1. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    There are exceptions and I was thinking of you when I posted
     
  2. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    If it were me, I would clamp a Vise-Grip or similar on the drain bolt head and attempt to pull it out as I turn. You may be able to pry with a screw driver or pry bar on the Vise-Grip also.
     
  3. fink

    fink Member

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    75611F9A-328C-473B-8CA0-42F5B8CAF286.jpeg Think on the bright side. It could have been a lot worse. ( I’ll get my hat)
     
  4. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

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    I do same, clean and put torque wrenches away. With the drain plug, using an aluminum washer, snug it up and you can tell when the aluminum starts to "squeeze". Much like the slightly harder copper washers, no loosening of the drain plug will occur.
    I have in a past life torqued to 22 and after a number of oil changes the aluminum washer will tend to wrap around the bolt head. That's OK but hanging in 17-20 results in little if any curling, and does the job. Never had one loosen yet and no longer use torque wrench. Again, 22 lubricated should be dropped to 17-20.....
    Others have used Dowty washers, with a rubber seal if you want to go that route....
    You can calibrate your own torque wrench if you make a pivot jig, an arm exactly 12" long, a weight of known value... I'll let you neenernet that.
     
  5. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    If your wrenches are getting dirty, you are doing it wrong.
     
  6. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    It is done now so that lesson is learnt.

    What you do now depends on whether you are planning on keeping the bike long term. If so then probably the best solution is indeed to fit a new sump.

    If not you might be able to get the old sump plug out - but you will always have that nagging doubt if you go the helicoil route.

    The bodge solution would be to totally degrease the sump plug and surrounding area, apply Araldite epoxy carefully to the sump plug to effectively epoxy weld the sump plug to a spanner you are happy to discard later. Leave to harden over night and then use a screwdriver to lever carefully downwards against the underside of the sump whilst cautiously turning the spanner and hopefully the glue will stick long enough for the plug to catch on the remaining thread in the sump and wind the plug out, before repairing the thread with a helicoil. Sadly the sump metal is not super strong and the bodge may fail again the next time someone tries to drain the sump.
     
  7. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    If it was me then I would use a helicoil - assuming you get it the old one out ok.
    But then I'd invest in a vacuum pump system to remove the oil through the fill point. Much easier and cleaner & you don't then have to worry about the drain plug.
     
  8. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

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    There are some options once you have the old drain plug out. One is to try a new longer drain plug or 14mm bolt that may catch any additional threads that might exist in the pan, if you can find a way to measure the pan thickness with a bent wire or such.
    To me, Helicoils are OK most times, sometimes they aren't permanent. Time-Serts are better.
    My preference is to drill it out, re-tap and use a larger diameter (say 15mm or 16mm) drain plug. All the above are similar money once you buy all the kit you need.
    One other option, they do make oversize drain plugs that self-tap a new thread. Can try this first, and if necessary, go the re-threading route.
    Trumping all that, FYI, a new oil pan... e.g., for Gen5 is ~$140 at Partzilla.
     
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  9. rhoderage

    rhoderage New Member

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    Seriously for $140 for a new pan, compared to the risk of a 'fix' dropping out on road and letting loose a stream of hot oil at your rear tire... I'd save and spend the $140. I'm all for fixing everything I can, and I don't have a lot of money to spend, but this one seems a little risky...
    Or even look for a used oil pan with threads in good shape.

    My 2c! Let us know what you end up doing
     
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  10. COS_VFR

    COS_VFR New Member

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    $55 used on ebay
     
  11. Keager

    Keager Member

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    Keep digging Randy. They might be in the transmission bell housing.
     
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