86 vfr700 has power but won't turn over after slip on install.

So I had my 86vfr700 at the exhaust shop getting some old school D&D slips on installed. Bike sat for a month because they were waiting on clamps and just backed up. Tried to start so I could hear the new rumble and it just turned over and over but would not fire. After about two minutes of this it just stopped turning over abruptly and I can hear a slight click flipping the switch from Run To Off... the start button does nothing now. Tried charging the battery but nothing. I did notice the red cable on top of the solenoid when pulled off was kinda melted. I'm gonna assume that's the culprit since the fan and lights can still be turned on by the battery alone. Even If I get it to turn back over by replacing the melted piece, I'm still left with the bike not cranking after the slip on install. So, ttwo questions... Have the slip-ons created less back-pressure causing the bike to not start, and 2, do we think the melted solenoid piece is the culprit for the bike not turning over at all anymore? Bike ran perfect before dropping at the shop btw.

 

Your battery is possibly bad. 86 VFRs really like fresh batteries to start. They will turn over but not fire on a failing battery. And that melted plug is likely the cause of nothing happening now, fairly common on 86 VFRs.

The mufflers alone shouldn't cause the bike to be so lean it won't even start. Sitting for over a month didn't help trying to start it either, you probably used quite a bit battery power priming the carbs.

 

Thanks for your help... gonna replace battery first I suppose and see what happens.

 

You can run some jumper cables from your car battery (not running) to verify first.

 

Good idea... ran some cables to the battery but it wont even make a clicking sound much less turn over. Saw a tidge bit of smoke come from the start button, so who knows.

 

Yikes

 

Maybe just replace the right hand rum/stop switch?

 

I suspect the switch was smoking because of excess resistance (or melted connectors) somewhere else, not allowing the power to get to the starter. It is a symptom, not the disease likely.

 

hmmmm... what would look at next then? With key on the bikes lights, horn, and I can manually turn the fan on and it sounds strong. All connections around the battery, including the solenoid seem ok. Is there a way to bypass the starter button to see if the switch is the problem?

 

I also read in another thread, where a guy used a 4th gen starter switch to fix a similar issue. Any fuses you think could cause this too?

 

"I did notice the red cable on top of the solenoid when pulled off was kinda melted."

you sure this isn't shorted out in side the plug. Cuz that's what they often do when melted like that.

 

How does the plug connector look that you have to unplug to get to the main fuse?

 

You can also apply battery voltage with your jumper cables to the starter side of the solenoid to verify the starter will turn the motor over properly.

 

the plug connector is the part that's slightly melted... it's the top plug that plugs in to the solenoid to the left of the battery that has the 30v fuse.
So, I just ground the neg cable and put the positve cable on the solenoid and it should turn over?

 

Yes. The post that the cable going to your starter attaches.

 

the red solenoid plug is a very common trouble point on these bikes, and you can buy a replacement on ebay with wires attached, ez to change. pull off the plug to check for melting underneath.

 

Ok, so here’s the prognosis. The battery is good, the starter button seems ok as it will turn out the front light when pressed and the key on but no turn over. I was able to put a voltage meter on the back two connections of the starter solenoid and it read 12v, the front two read nothing. I hooked up the jumper cable to the starter side of the solenoid and the bike cranked right up and ran great, even went for a quick ride.
If I hit the starter button on the handle bar while it’s running, I can hear the solenoid clicking every time I press it. The kill switch will cut the bike off but pressing the starter button to re-crank does nothing to re-crank. I’m thinking the solenoid and solenoid plug are the culprits with all this info but please let me know your thoughts as you’re the vfr Jedi.

 

I had most of the same symptoms and I replaced the diode and solenoid ..... solved the issue

 

The real question is...

How do the pipes sound?

And look?!!!

 

Sounds

Sounds angry now! Looks period correct too. With the explanation I gave you above, Is the solenoid and plug probably the culprit in your opinion?