Chain Adjust Question - Part XXXXX

Yeah, I know, chain adjustment is beat to death and I did look through many of the posts on the subject to see if I could find an answer. It may be there and I just overlooked it though, so if I did I apologize.

I understand the fundamentals of adjusting the chain, not too much different from most other bikes, but I have a specific question that I'm not real sure I can explain properly.

To check the slack in the chain you measure from the low point of the chain at the center between the front and rear sprocket to the high point. According to the owner's manual it should be an inch +/- a little. All well and good BUT I can't get to the high point. When I push up on the chain to get to the high point it hits on the bottom of the swing arm without tension on the chain. I need to go up some more to get the slack out of the chain but the swingarm is in the way.

What I have been doing is not the best way since I'm using an assumption. When I had about 500 miles on the bike (new 2007) I was going to check the tension and noticed that problem. I had to assume that 1) The chain was adjusted properly from the shop, and 2) That it had stretched slightly. At that time there was 7/8" from the bottom of the swingarm to the rivets in the chain, so I've just been using that as a "Standard". If it exceeds that amount (it hasn't yet at 3k miles) I'll adjust it some.

Anyone else run across this problem? And if so how did you deal with it. I realize it's somewhat hard to explain and I can take some photos if that will help.

Thanks!

 

SCraig,
I too have had the same issue on my new 06 and I have pretty much done what you have. I think it is logical and a safe.

Another issue I have a small concern about is one which stand should I check teh chain slack. On my suzuki, the manual is clear as to when to check the chain slack (on the sidestand, not on a race stand). Unfortunately, Honda is not so specific, so i just check mine when it is on the center stand as this is the position the bike needs to be in to adjust the chain.

BTW, have you been using gear lube on the chain. I've used various chain lube sprays on my suzuki, but trying to stay "OEM spec" on my new Honda, I stuck with gear oil. After about 5K experience with gear oil, I will never, ever use anything else on all my chains. Though the initial ride after lubing requires you to wipe off some oil that may have sprayed out, the chain stays much cleaner and is easier to clean off.

 

Glad to know that I'm not the only one

I stopped at the dealership right after I got the bike and asked the service manager. He looked at it, thought about it, and went and got one of the techs to look. The tech looked at it, thought about it, and said, "Aw just check it here in front of the swing arm." I just thanked him and said to myself, "I don't think so!"

I don't have the owner's manual handy, but I'm pretty sure it did say to check the tension on the centerstand. My Suzuki also says to check it on the side stand but it didn't come standard with a centerstand.

I use Bel-Ray chain lube on both my bikes. I've had good luck with it and it pretty much stays where I put it.

 

Chain adjustment for the VFR

Hi guys,

I came across the same problem first time I played with the chain tension - swingarm prevents correct tension setting - according to the manual. So I asked my suspension guru whats the best way to set the correct tension in the circumstances. So if your up for a bit of a read, grab a brew and carry on 'cos theres a bit of work involved.

The whole process I'm going to describe enables you to chock up the rear wheel and swing arm so that you have a straight line between the centre of the front sprocket, the centre of the swingarm pivot and the centre of the rear axle. When all three are in line you adjust the chain tension to give you 13mm between the chain instead of the 20-22mm as described in the manual. According to the suspension guy this is the way the race bike guys set the correct tension. The whole process will go smoother if you've got a mate to assist you.

Getting to this point means:

Putting the bike on the centre stand
Loosening the pinch nut on the rear axle to allow you to adjust the chain tension
Disconnecting the speed sensor covering the front sprocket and moving it aside so you can see the centre of the front sprocket - see attached picture.
Unbolting the shock arm plates (triangular plates the bottom of the shock - take note of the way the plates are while assembled - maybe use a marker pen to show which side points to the front. See attached picture. To help with getting the plates removed, chock the rear wheel so that the weight of the swing arm/wheel is taken off the bolts. CAUTION! With the lower shock mount disconnected the swingarm will hang like a limp noodle - take care getting it into position.

Your going to need some bricks or lumber to move the rear axle high enough so that its centre is in line with the swing arm and front sprocket. Once roughly in position I used some spacers to fine tune the axle height and a string line to check the alignment of all three points.

Once everything lines up, get out your adjusting spanner for the rear hub and fine tune the chain slack. You'll find the swing arm is no longer an obstruction.

Once your set with the chain tension its a matter of re-assembly.

Ok great now your set with the 'proper' tension but how do you avoid going through the same painful process every 5K miles or whatever when the chain stretches?

My thinking was that if the chain is now at the proper tension you really just need a way of measuring if the chain at its mid way point is dropping lower as the chain stretches (accounting for any tight spots as well). So I came up with a simple way of measuring this slack using a vertical ruler and a marker pen. The trick is to also ensure that with the bike on the centre stand the ruler is being placed in the same position between the chain and swing arm. Hope the attached diagram helps. I align my ruler (mounted on a short stand) with a mark I've scribed on the lower shock mounting plate. This is really important to get a consistant measurement of the chains slack.

The ruler has a permanent pen mark on it that aligns with the bottom edge of the the chain link at its tightest point. Putting the ruler in position and slowly rotating the rear wheel while keeping you eye level with both ruler and chain helps to easily find an tight spots.

As the chain stretches its going to drop below the mark on the ruler. At whatever point you think too much slack is creeping in just drag out the ruler, line it up at the same location under the swingarm and take a sighting and adjust the tension as necessary!:biggrin:

Hope the above madness makes sense (I feel a drink coming on...)!

Cheers,

 

That's as good a way as any, I guess. Somewhat involved though. I think I'll leave that one for a nice winter project!

The way you are checking it now, since you have a "Benchmark" distance is pretty much what I'm doing. I just assumed that it was right when I got it new and am keeping the chain at the same distance from the swingarm. Should be pretty close.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

No worries Scott,

I just remembered that before embarking on the whole process of lining up the three key spots, its also ideal to have the correct sag set for the rear shock as well.

Catcha,