VF1000F Wheel Swap

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Captain 80s, Aug 23, 2019.

  1. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Yes, stock motor. I'm not so sure about any real power gains with the exhaust, but I suspect some. But the thing does run perfect and pulls VERY strong. It pulls different than a 1000R. Not really slower/faster, just different. It has 1000R headers/collector (which has a bigger volume chamber) so I could use the Yosh 1000R mufflers. The angle of the outputs from the chamber on the 1000R and 1000F is very different. The 1000F had a center stand so the exhaust collector was smaller.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2020
  2. lsc86

    lsc86 New Member

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    Rode one briefly many years ago, it was just awkward after so many years riding GSXRs. Sat on a few 1000r, never rode one though.
     
  3. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    The stock ride is not that impressive. This is a completely different bike now. Front down, ass up, bars lower, wide wheels, radial tires. Surprisingly the stock peg locations still work quite nicely. Wouldn't mind a tad rear, but that is some more work as the muffler mounts are integrated. Maybe.
     
  4. Paul Myers

    Paul Myers New Member

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    Nice work !!!

    Making me envious that my Project bike is still at least a year away from starting.
    But got me thinking about the wheels I have for it. Set of 17 Marvic Magnesium wheels for the 86 VFR750 superbikes. Has Honda cast into them with the Marvic symbol.

    The rear wheel has no cush drive which has me concerned for the wear on the transmission. I guess the superbikes were more concerned about powerloss than transmission wear and tear.

    Thinking that running a slipper clutch will help but I need to find one that will fit the 86 VFR750.

    Also need to:
    Finish the new race car so it is ready for next season.
    Do a bunch of moulds for body panels that I have not already moulded. They're a bunch of animals on the track.
    Finish the home renos so my wife doesn't kill me. I'm already banished to the workshop. Ohhh so harsh :) That might just be self isolation.
    Get my 86 VFR750 PI street bike refurbished. Basically this coming winters job. With parts gathering and a bit of tinkering over the summer.

    Finish augering post holes on the neighbours farm......
    And of course this week my tractor decided it was going to get stuborn about starting. Yesterday after work was over at the neighbours we tried a bit of ether and it started clanking like it had a broken rod which scared the shit out of me and then fired up and ran smoothly WTF????
    So now I have to diagnose why I have to crank the shit out of it for a long time to get it to fire up? Dooh too many mechanical things....
     
  5. lsc86

    lsc86 New Member

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    pot holes and large bumps wreck havoc on non-cush drive wheels off track. way too many GSXR trans jobs from that over the years. But the instantaneous drive line reaction is awesome! I think Sigma still offers a slipper setup for the VFR?
     
  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Unless you're building a track bike only, I would be wary of running that wheel. The harsh reality of riding on public roads would ALWAYS be wearing on me, not to mention the poor transmission.

    Also, please post some pics of the wheels.
     
  7. lsc86

    lsc86 New Member

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    Agreed, pics are a must!
     
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  8. Paul Myers

    Paul Myers New Member

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    I'll see if I can dig them out of their storage spot this weekend.
    If anyone has any ideas about how to adapt a cush drive, I'm all ears. I've a couple of ideas but there is not much of a way to create surface area for the rubber.
     
  9. lsc86

    lsc86 New Member

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    I've seen some enduros with a rubberized sprocket mount for the spoke wheels, kind of a sudo cush drive effect to help dampen the driveline vibes. ~Might~ be able to adapt something like that for those wheels, otherwise no real way to modify an actual cush drive setup there. I know the PM wheels with cush drives were absolute gold to find for our GSXRs back in the day for street use.
     
  10. Paul Myers

    Paul Myers New Member

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    I'll start searching that. The project bike won't see allot of miles so a slipper clutch and that might be enough. I'd say it would be a track bike but after all the effort I doubt I'll want to risk it on the track....there are a few certainties about tracking.....
    1. you may be faster then someone but there will always be someone faster than you.
    2. you will have more fun than anything else you have done.
    3. you will crash at some point. Its not if, its just when. (been there done that....guess why I have to restore my 86 VFR streetbike)
    If I ever to go back to the track on two wheels it will be with something like an older R6 maybe a cbr600, stripped down so when I crash it is easy to find parts at a reasonable price. Still have my leathers although I think they require a little bit of stitching :) Did race schools on an R6 and it felt like I was on my bicycle, so light and nimble.

    I'm getting too brittle for bikes and tracks but it is still as tempting. If you go over limits in a car you spin.....although they tend to put walls in stupid places.........
     
  11. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I continued the red stripe down into the lower cowl. I played around with a few shapes and angles. It was fairly hard to make it look good as the natural line from the side cover doesn't put the stripe right there.

    20201006_154617.jpg

    If I didn't like it, I didn't have to keep it, I actually found vinyl in the metallic red.
     
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  12. straycat

    straycat Member

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    Damn thats nice !!
     
  13. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Crazy nice! the stripe looks like it is OEM.

    I still can't believe how nice this bike looks, brand new just like the one I put together out of a box in '84. -Except for the wheels and exhaust. The white wheels and Exhaust look better than stock IMO.
     
  14. veefouric

    veefouric New Member

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    Hi Captain, I finally found a half decent vf1000f so that I copy your mods. Already have the 1990-91 cbr1000f wheels and forks. Just wondering if you would be able to provide me the specs for the rear wheel hub so I can get the machinist to turn it down to the right size. I decided to use the cbr1000f forks so there is less messing around with the vf1000f forks and fitting the cbr1000f wheel. This eliminates the anti dive and the need for emulators since they are cartridge forks. Any other info or advice would be greatly appreciated.
     
  15. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Here's the best I can do, and realize this is what I chose to do and I have had ZERO issues over many miles:

    New sprocket hub outer spacer is 7mm long. Lip on the hub above where the (stock) bearing is pressed in needs to be machined down to 6mm above installed bearing. Source a 6mm thick seal in the correct ID / OD. Yes, that's 1mm clearance between the seal and the chain adjuster. Again zero issues, there's no "flex" or movement that can change that and make anything rub as long as you have sourced the correct seal and machined down the lip correctly. If you're not comfortable with that don't do it my way.

    Machine down the sprocket mount face. I don't have an exact number written down from my notes, but looking at my calculations for wheel/chain centers I *THINK* it is 11mm needs to be removed. What I can say for sure is that from the top of your 7mm spacer sitting on the installed bearing in the hub, the new sprocket face is 30mm down from that. Which gives you stock chain center. The inner bearing spacer is unchanged by the way.

    These dimensions put your chain center and wheel center at what came from the factory for the 1000F. If you are concerned about 1mm space between your seal and the chain adjuster, you can run your wheel another 1mm right (which you wouldn't notice) with an 8mm spacer, but then you need to compensate 1mm on the sprocket face machining to maintain chain center. I could not find any seal slimmer than 6mm in the correct ID/OD.

    You have to run a 170 tire. 160 is not correct for a 5.5" rim and 180 is too wide to clear the chain. Don't go with Avon. They run wide, a 170 Avon is almost 180. It will slightly rub the chain. I have a Pirelli 170 on the 1000F and it is perfect.

    The right side spacers are made so the brake caliper bracket is centered on the disc and the final spacer makes up what remains to the right side swingarm. I think I was able to use one of the stock spacers and had to make one. I don't have dimensions handy.

    Good luck.
     
  16. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Finally finished a little project I've been working on for while. CBR foot pegs to replace the clunky square steel pegs.

    PXL_20230408_200400467.jpg

    PXL_20230408_200422767.jpg

    I bought an extra set of the footpeg brackets (just the smaller bolt on pieces) and had to bond some plate to them on the inside so the pegs had the proper stop landing. The hole is more outboard on the VF holders than the CBR and the pegs severely sagged without it. Just had to "adjust" the stops of the aluminum pegs a little to get the angle I wanted. The passenger pegs do not fold down, but they are firmly mounted and don't rattle or move. I kept them because they hide some of the muffler brackets, and weigh nothing. I don't give rides, that's what the ST1100 is for if needed.

    PXL_20230408_202001886.jpg

    PXL_20230408_202023071.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2023
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  17. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    Nice work Cap! Looks killer!
     
  18. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Little ride to a couple parks.

    Didn't ride this much last year... Wow I missed it.

    PXL_20230415_001408867.jpg
     
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  19. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    I will never get tired at looking at that F.... just a great looking Interceptor
     
  20. jethro

    jethro New Member

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    Sounds like you have alot on your plate. This might help if your tractor is a diesel or gas for that matter. I watch project farm and he had an old ford diesel tractor that wouldn't start without ether. He took compression tests and then used engine restore along with an oil change. The after compression test showed a good increase in compression and he no longer has to use ether to start his tractor. Might be your problem or not
     
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