Here's the scenario: My battery wasn't holding charge, so I bought a new. That one wouldn't recharge, so I pulled the stator and R/R (there was some oil on the stator - is that bad?). I gave them to my buddy who a mechanical wizard but not always available and he tested both. The stator failed, the R/R passed. But he told me that the R/R on the VFR has a reputation for just quitting so I should have one on standby - advice I did not heed. After I installed my new stator, things were good for awhile. But then it seems like too much electric was going through the system. One other observation, I don't know how related it is, is that oil was working it's way up the wires from my stator to where it plugs into my wiring harness and dripping onto my frame. Next, my headlight, on low beam, quit working. While riding on the freeway, every light on my dash lit up and then the bike quit working. I lifted my seat and the battery had blown it's cap. I was stuck. Since then, I replaced the R/R and bought another battery. But the bike won't start. I pulled and checked the 20A starter fuse. It was fried. I replaced it. Fried that one. Dash lights come on. Headlights, both hi & lo do not. I also don't hear the electronic fuel pump when I turn on the key like I used to. Any thoughts????
Sounds like the r/r failed by overcharging by A LOT! (technical term) Check all fuses and the wiring especially the main routes to/from the battery. Is this a fuel-infected bike? The ECU could be toast. OUCH!
I'd have to agree. The R/R failed, voltage spiked, and the weakest links kicked the bucket (another technical term). It's untelling how high the voltage got before meltdown.out:
thanks, guys. it looks like i have my work cut out for me. by the way: i looked in my book and didn't find "ECU". is that the same as the "ECM" (engine control module)? thanks!
Try www.mrcycles.com There you'll find the complete parts breakdown of your bike. Just click on "Honda Parts".
who's credit? I just had the same scenario/experience with my honda vfr800 '99. The original R/R was undercharging after 20k miles, the new replacement R/R boiled the new battery, blow several bulbs, put out the gauges, 20 amp fuel injection fuse is blown. can not find any shortage, burned wire/connection, the fuse is blown even without connecting to the fuel pump, checked relays, everything seems OK. Is there a way to check the ecm?