85 700 build thread gonna need much help

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by f5guy, Mar 26, 2020.

  1. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    Bought this in 1985 brand new. Rode all over the country and its been sitting for probably 12 years. Blew the dust off last week pushed Goldwing out of the way and while i wait for carb kit filled cylinders with motor oil since I ran out of mystery oil. Will try to roll in gear to turn over and avoid hydro lock. In the mean time i drained clutch and brake reservoirs. Took front calipers off and cleaned out. In anticipation of a crank over and wanting to see lights come on i put a battery in turned the key and its dead. No power at fuse box confirmed with test light. Will have to hunt down a wiring diagram (clymers in my future). Any and all input is appreciated. Will keep you posted. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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    Last edited: Mar 26, 2020
  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Please tell me you removed the plenum AFTER removing the carbs.
     
  3. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    yes for sure years ago and stuffed rags anywhere dust would do damage. Still trying to figure out why no power to fusebox. Will test ground to frame when I get home.
     
  4. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Just have to ask... checked main fuse?
     
  5. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    Appreciate it, I saw a 30 but think thats on the solenoid is there another one I should check out? I don’t have a wiring diagram. Will look after work.


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  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Yeah, that's what I was talking about. Sometimes they can look good but actually be cracked/bad. Has happened to me more than once.

    There is also an "ignition" fuse under the cover on the triple clamp.
     
  7. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    Yes 30 good tip thanks will replace 1st keep you posted


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  8. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    So i touched the fuse and it crumbled, took out the spare and it crumbled too. None of my regular stops had a replacement so I improvised. See original and replacement below. [​IMG][​IMG]


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  9. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    Found this diconnected wire in the base of ignition will see about my soldering skills now. [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Mar 28, 2020
  10. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I switch over to that style on most of my bikes.
     
  11. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    And we have ignition. Left some
    mystery oil in cylinders over rocked it in gear. Hit the starter with plugs out and motor spins- YES!!! Cannot wait for carb kit to come will bleed brakes and change oil in the mean time. [​IMG]


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  12. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    I’m back and a little stumped. Carbs are rebuilt using awesome kit from Dana. Attached back to the plenum and everything lines up. Getting ready to reinstall and trying to figure out if I should keep gaskets in the motor or attached to the carbs? Currently attached to carbs and giving me a fit. I used a little vaseline on them and just want to make sure I’m going about it the right way. Any experience is appreciated. Also looks like have to push the front ones down first to make room for back ones to go in ? [​IMG]


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  13. straycat

    straycat Member

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    There are some good videos on re-installing V4 carbs and the boots. I use the method where you put the boots on the cylinders, however you set them at an angle (half on the manifold and half off), so that when you press the carbs in they will pop onto the manifolds and the carbs at the same time. Search youtube, I think MagnAandy has a video on how to do it. The other thing is to ensure the boots are still supple and not cracked. If you didn't put new ones on and yours are hard, it will make the install that much more difficult. I have had great success with a mixture of alcohol and wintergreen oil to soften the boots. I soak them for a day or so and they stay soft after you remove them from the solution for a long long time. Again lots of info on that online. (1 part wintergreen oil and 3 parts alcohol I believe)
     
  14. Colddevil

    Colddevil Member

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    I was given some really good advice on this recently here by Captain 80s and a few others. I'd been having fits trying to seat my VF500F carbs into new intake boots. I wasn't getting anywhere. I tried the ratchet strap method, and I couldn't find a good route that wouldn't stress items I didn't want to stress. Actually tried two ratchet straps to click once forward, once down, once forward, once down. I couldn't get it. I had enough pressure I actually snapped the 3/4" board I was using to protect the exhaust in half.

    Get yourself some red rubber or other silicon grease, a hair dryer, and two small flathead screwdrivers. Put the boots onto the engine. Put both the bottom and top clamps around the boots. I tightened the bottoms and left the tops as loose as I could without loosing the square nut behind. Wipe a thin layer of the silicon grease on the inside of the boots, and a bit on the upper lip on the rear #1/#3 boots. Heat up the boots with the hair dryer. Once they're warm and softer, push the fronts in. Use the small flat head screwdrivers to gently pull back the lip a little bit on the rears as you push down. A second set of hands would be useful here, but not necessary. You should be able to push them in this way.

    I've taken mine on and off four times now. The last time I didn't heat them with the hair dryer thinking I'd just get lucky, and it was much more of a challenge, but I got it. I'll use the hair dryer from now on to avoid damaging them.

    Another method I'd read was in a Word document called "carb install method by Scooter". I couldn't get this to work for shit, but maybe you can.
    boot install method, cocking.jpg

    "Start with flexable rubbers, some have posted that boiling the rubbers will make them flexable. If that doesn't work buy some new ones from the dealer, since you will not only be fighting stiff rubbers but they may not seal after you fight it together. I do not approve of the Tie Strap Method, I think that it is just a good way to fracture an airbox. Honda had a simple procedure to install these carbs and it works with very little effort and no prying or levers are involved. It's just too bad they never put it into the shop manual, I had to figure it out for myself. I found out later that it is how it was done when the factory was assembling our bikes.

    1) Work the carb rack into position without the rubbers in place.

    2) Put the clamps onto the rubbers and position them with the screws in a convenient location for accessing them when installed on the bike. Make sure that the clamps are very, very loose.

    3) Grease each rubber will silicone dielectric grease at each end. I originally used Vaseline but that is absorbed into the rubber. Silicone grease does not soak into the rubber like Vaseline and it makes pulling the carbs much easier the next time they need service. I also use it on the radiator hoses.

    4) Fish the rubbers, with clamps, into position under each carb.

    5) Now position the rubbers at each carb as follows, this is the key to how this method works. At each rubber you want to have it tilted in an upward direction. This means that on each intake tube the rubber will be hooked into the groove at the top of the intake tube and barely started at the bottom of the intake tube. Seating at the carb is the opposite, the rubber must be hooked into the groove at the bottom of the carb outlet and barely started at the top of the carb outlet. What you should have is a mild zigzag in the path between the carb outlet and the intake tube with the rubbers tilted upwards.

    6) At this point all you have to do is push down on the rack while rocking it slightly, forward and back, and side to side. Keep an eye on each rubber as you proceed and if an edge catches reposition that rubber. It only takes about 5 or 10 pounds of force and you will feel it as the rubbers pop into the grooves."
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2020
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  15. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I've done both. But I will always try boots attached to engine and front in first to start with. Vf500F and VFR750F like that procedure for sure. The last 1000R I did, I think I did front in first and half n half rear cuz the older boots were giving me grief, even with heating them up. The architecture on the VF750/1000 doesn't quite give you the same access to help the carbs into the rear. I thought they might be coming back out for a jetting change (I was right) so I soldiered on with them and I will re-evaluate the need for new ones.
     
  16. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    Thank you all for the suggestions. Before i checked back here i had them almost on but the right front wasn’t going in. Took them off and did the tilted method with some oil and couldn’t get the rears to go in and was messing up the gasket with screw driver and ready to quit. 3 hours in pulled them off again put gaskets under blow dryer and went in and had dinner. Came out they were almost to hot to touch oiled them with 10w40. Tilted method again making sire they were partially seated -fronts went in first then the backs. Im not 100% they are totally seated but it’s been 13 years and I just wanted to know if this thing would fire before I did any more work. A little gas and starting fluid -some smoke came out of the exhaust and she sounds ready to go. I’m confident I can make this thing run tomorrow need to figure out how to hook up a false gas tank- can I just use gravity straight into the carbs or do I have to go through the fuel pump? Thanks again guys.


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  17. Colddevil

    Colddevil Member

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    Auxiliary tank works just fine to get it going. You and I are at the same spot, but it does bring up a question I never thought to ask... Should the fuel pump be disconnected (can it be?) prior to running on an aux tank? Can it be burnt out by running it dry?

    I never considered that before.
     

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  18. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    Fuel pump is spitting clean fuel when I let off starter button. Will clean plugs and try again tomorrow.


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  19. f5guy

    f5guy New Member

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    Ok I’m stumped have spark and fuel but won’t fire, any suggestions on what to try or check is appreciated.


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  20. Colddevil

    Colddevil Member

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    Are you hearing any popping like it wants to fire, or nothing at all? Is this off an auxiliary tank or off the fuel tank? If auxiliary tank, make sure you capped off the vac port near the carb outlet if it's a vacuum operated petcock. If you're running with the fuel tank on, you may need to draw vacuum manually to fill the carb fuel bowls.

    I would pull the air filter box off, pull a slide up, shine a flashlight in, and make sure the butterflies look like they're closing all the way. Check to make sure that the throttle is actually closing and not hung up.

    I'd also check to make sure you set your A/F mix screws correct. They're easy access and will only take a few minutes.

    I'd also try starting the bike without the air filter on.
     
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